THE 



mhxx 




DANIEL HARRIS, INVENTOR AND PATENTKE. 

The public guaranteed under a recommendation and license from Elias Tlower 
Jr., I. M. Singer & Co , Grover and Baker Sewing Machine Co., and Wheel- 
er and Wilson Manufacturing Co., dated August 1&, 1&.J7. 

PRINCIPAL OFFICE, 43 TREMONT STREET, BOSTON. 
BRANCH OFFICE, 473 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 

The above Machine is offered to the public as the most reliable low priced, 
single thread Sewing Machine in use. It M-ill sew from six to fifty stitches 
to an inch on all kinds of woolen, linen, silk and cotton goods from coarse 
bagging to iinest cambrics. It is -without exception the simplest in its me- 
ehanical construction ever made, and can be easily run and kept in order 
by any child twelve years of age of ordinary capacity. The quality of the 
work is not surpassed by that of any other single thread machine — its speed 
Km '.ted only by the individual'is power of driving it, ranging from three 
hundred to fifteen hundred stitches per minute — its durability equal to that 
of any other machine — the seam made is smooth, even and firm, very elas- 
tic, and consequently is not liable to break in washing and ironing — the 
thread or silk used is taken directly from the spools on which it is purchased 
without re-winding; in f^ct it is a machine that is wanted by every family 
in the land. The price is within the means of most people, beingf sold at the 
low sum of FORTY-FIVE DOLLARS, and the mechanism of every 
machine is -warranted in all respects. 

IMPORTANT NOTICE. 

During the last six months several low priced Sewing Machines have 
been presented to the public, ranging in price from ten to twenty-five 
dollars, some of which are not worth the price of the metal of which 
they are made, and are a gross imposition upon the public, and all of 
which are direct infringements of well known patents, and in consequence 
of th«se facts, the proprietors of the Boudour Sewi»g ISIachiue would call 
particular attention to their machine, which has received the approbation 
of the parties o-wning the pateuts which have been infringed upon, and 
have also granted a license to them for its manufacture and sale at the low 
price of forty-five dollars — and all persons purchasing anj' other of the 
above mentioned class of machines will be liable to pay a license for the 
light to use them. Several hundred of these machini's have been already 
sold, and testimonials of the highest kind can be furnished to any party, of 
their superior merit over any single thread machine now before the public. 

Ladies and gentlemen will please examine before purchasing elsewhere, 
at any of our offices, where they will be freely shown at ail times, and their 
superiority demonstrated. Responsible agents wanted in all parts of the 
country and liberal terms given. 

L. A. BIGELOW, Agent, 

43 TREMOFT ST., BOSTON. 

September 4, 1857, 




S:;:i I - if Mi 








laX^arAiJAMtf. 80SXW»* 



H. H. HAY & OO., 
Junction Free & Middle sts,, Portland, 



-Wholesale Dealers in- 




Am, fainte, #ib, 



"^7- .A. rt 3xr I s ^s: , 

Artists' Materials, Colors, Standard Family medicines, Hair Dyes, Perfumery, Burnin* 
A^' ^^'^I'^eiie, Potash, Dye-Stuffs, Acids, Pure Wines and Liquors, (for Medicinal 
and Mechanical purposes only,) .Surgical and Dental Instruments, fJold and Silver Foil 
Teeth, Fine Chemicals, Reagents, &c., including all articles wanted by Druggists Phy- 
eicansand Country Merchants. 1^" Our stock is by far the largest and most com- 
plete of any in the state, and our facilities for business are such that we are enabled t9 
iamish all goods in our line on the most favorable terms for cash or approved paper. 

Being State Agents for most of the popular Patent Medicines, Hair Restoratives, 
&c., and p*-chasing them in large quantities at Head:Quarters, we can furnish aH 
■genuine articles in this line at proprietor-s' lowest prices. 
M. B. HAY, J). jL. MITCEELL. 



AMUSEMENT FOE THE MILLION t 




STRANGERS VISITING BOSTON 

Should by no means omit seeing the vast MAGAZINE OF 
WONDERS known as the 

BOSTON MUSEUM: 

Situated on Tremont street, in a building erected for the express 
purpose, at a cost of $200,000, and comprising a collection of 
NEARLY HALF A MILLION OF ARTICLES. Natural and 
Artificial Curiosities, Statuary, Paintings, Engravings, Shells, Co- 
rals, Fossils, Rare Coins and Medals, Egyptian Mummies, the 
curious half-fish, half-human Mermaid, the remarkable Ornithoryn- 
cus, the extensive Hall of SUPERB WAX STATUARY, 
containing nearly two hundred figures the size of life ; Elephants, 
Giraifes, Orang Outangs, and other anima/s : Birds, Fishes, Rep- 
tiles, &c. — the whole forming a School of Instruction and Amuse- 
mant, that for extent and interest is unequalled in the known world. 
In addition to all which, and without extra charge, the admi-sion to 
the whole being only Twenty Five Cents, visitors can witness the 

Magnificent Theatrical Entertainments, 

Given every evening and Wednesday and Saturday afternoons, by a com- 
pany of Comedians and an Orchestra of Musicians admitted to be superior 
to any ever before collected in America, with the aid of Stage and scenic 
Arranaements, the most grand and superb ever seen in America; thus 
warranting the universal admission that the Boston Museum is the 

CHEAPEST PLACE OF AMUSEI^IENT IN THE WORLD. 



SEABOARD TOWNS; 



OR, 



CrHklier'^ #iiik 100k 



FKOM 



BOSTON TO PORTLAND: 



CONTAINING A 



DESCRIPTION OF THE CITIES, TOWNS AND VILLA- 

GES, SCENERY, AND OBJECTS 0L<^ INTEREST, 

ALONG THE ROUTE OE THE 



1>0RTLAND, SACO AND PORTSMOUTH RAILROAD. 

INCLUDING HISTORICAL SKETCHES, LEGENDS, &c., 
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. 



BY JOSEPH H. BRAGDON. 



NEWBURYPORT : 

MOULTON & CLARK, PUBLISHERS. 

BOSTON : A. WILLIAMS & CO., AND BROWN, TAGGARD & CHASE. 

SALEM : D. B. BROOKS & BROTHER. 

PORTLAND; GEORGE R. DAA^S & BROTHER. 

1857. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, 

By MouLTON & Clark, 

in tbe Clerk's Office of the District Court of tbe District of Massachusetts. 



/y^:,. 



PRE F A C E 



The author presents this little book to the public, with a can 
scLousness of its many imperfections, but jet with a belief that it 
will prove an agreeable companion in a journey over the railway. 
He claims for the work no literary merit. The vast field which 
it covers, and the short time spent in its compilation, has only 
enabled him to connect together a moiety of the material, gathered 
from innumerable sources, without bestowing labor upon its artistic 
finish, Wiien it is recollected that many of the towns through 
which we pass are without their written history, and that all infor- 
mation in regard to them mast be obtained from musty documents, 
imperfect records and oral testimony, the reader can in some de- 
gree appreciate the labor of compiling such a book, and, in charity, 
overlook its unavoidable faults. The entire ground covered by 
the work, has been travelled over by the writer, and as carefully 
surveyed as time and circumstances would admit ; and everything 
of general interest has been embodied with as much detail as space 
would allow. 

In such a work as this it could not be expected that the author 
should give credit for every item of intelligence, or extract given, 
as the sources are so numerous, that notes would consume much 
of the space. He has endeavored to select the most reliable au- 
thorities, and to make the book correct in every particular. It 
would be a pleasure to acknowledge, in detail, the kindnesses re- 
ceived from the railroad oflScers and conductors, from the news- 
paper press, and from individuals in the towns along the route, 
many of whom made personal sacrifices to assist in the collection 
of material, but as the recital of the names alone would require a 
page or two, it would appear too much like ostentation. They all 
have the heartiest thanks of the author, who will recollect with 
gratitude their favors. 

JOSEPH H. BRAGDON. 

Newburyport, Sept., 1857 



TABLE OF CONTE>s^TS 



MAIN ROAD 



The Railroads page 1 

Boston, 11 

Somerville, 14 

•Charlestown, 18 

South Maiden, 26 

Chelsea, 27 

North Chelsea, ..... 30 

West Lynn, 31 

Nahant, 31 

Lynn, • . . 40 

Swampscott, 51 

Salem, 54 

Beverly, 67 

North Beverly, 70 

Wen ham and Hamilton, . . 71 

Ipswich, 73 

Eowley, 79 

Newburyport, 83 

Plum Island, 96 

East Salisbury, 98 



Seabrook page 101 

Hampton Falls, 102 

Hampton 103 

BTorth Hampton, . . . . 107 

Greenland 1©8 

Rye Beach, ....... 109 

Portsmouth, HI 

Kittery 124 

Elliot. 128 

Brock's Cropsing, .... 130 

South Berwick 131 

North Berwick, 132 

Wells, 134 

Kennebunk, 137 

Biddeford, 139 

Saco, 141 

West Scarborough, ... 146 

Scarborough, 146 

Cape Elizabeth, 149 

Portland 151 



BRANCH ROADS. 



SAUGUS BRANCH. 



South Maiden, 
Maiden Centre, 
Maplewood, 
East Maiden, . 



171 
171 
172 
172 



Cliftondale, 172 

Saugus Centre, 173 

East Saugus 173 

Lynn Common, 174 



Forest River, 



MARBLEHEAD BRANCH. 

.... 175 I Marblehead, 



176 



GLOUCESTER BRANCH. 



Pride's Crossing, 
West Beach, . 
Newport, . • 



186 
186 
186 



Manchester, . 
West Parish, 
Gloucester, . 



Salisbury Point, 



AMESBURY BRANCH. 

. ... 197 I Amesbury Branch, 



187 



199 



BOSTON TO PORTLAND. 












?S*»w* 



^^ x". 



-=-».-*' -^^^^^ v.s,-o«<'N 

THE EASTERN RAILROAD AND ITS BRANCHES. AND THE 
PORTLAND, SACO & PORTSMOUTH RAILROAD. 

Whatever pertains to the Railroad system is of general in- 
terest to mankind, for the invention of running carriages by 
steam, for the conveyance of passengers and merchandize, 
which has been made within the memory of individuals 
yet young, marks an era in the history of the world ; — and 
hereafter, when the historian shall record the great events 
of the men of this generation, he will not refer to this as 



2 THE RAILROADS. 

the least important, but as the primary cause of many, and 
the basis of the great material development which is trans- 
piring among us. For these, not more may one class rejoice 
than another ; not more the merchant that thus he is placed 
by the side of his customers, thousands of miles away, than 
the agriculturist who cannot now be distant from a mar- 
ket ; not more the city, that one hour will place them in the 
country, far from the sea, among the green hills and moun- 
tains, than the residents of the rural districts, who every day 
and every hour may visit the city for business. 

Perhaps no people in this country or Europe have a more 
perfect system of railroading than Massachusetts : and though 
much of the capital invested in these corporations has not 
directly yielded the rewards anticipated, yet indirectly the 
state has been enabled to surpass in growth of population and 
value of property, most of her old sister states, and even to 
keep pace with the young and thriving West. Thus the vil- 
lages have grown into towns, and the towns into cities, and 
along the web-work of rails, there is almost a continuous 
city, of which Boston is made the head and mart of trade. 

Among the corporations to which we are indebted for 
this almost unparalleled prosperity, one of the earliest and 
most important, is the Eastern Railroad, that connects by its 
main trunk and branches, nearly every seaboard town in 
Eastern Massachusetts and New Hampshire with Boston ; — 
and by conjunction with ihe Portland, Saco & Portsmouth 
Railroad, the towns of Maine from Portsmouth, with Portland 
and Boston. This entire track, double from Boston to Salem, 
extends, with its branches, upwards of one hundred and 
fifty miles, through one of the most beautiful regions in the 
United States— one of the most densely populated, and a 
territory combining the greatest interests — the foreign and 
coastwise commerce, fisheries, manufactures of every vari- 



THE RAILROADS. % 

ety of goods, and agriculture in its highest perfection. Being 
the third road in America, it was more costly in its construc- 
tion than a like extent, with the same number of bridges and 
depots, would, now be. The total cost of the roads and 
equipments, from the outset, have been, for the Eastern road 
and Branches in Massachusetts, to May 31, 1857, $4,588, 
209.93 ; for the Eastern road in New Hampshire, to June 30, 
1857, S510,779.41; for the Portland, Saco and Portsmouth 
road, to June 1, 1857, $1,494,791.07. This in addition to 
the bed of the roads, covers a great amount of valuable prop- 
erty, now in the hands of the corporation. Since the con- 
struction of the roads there have been other corporations 
brought into competition, which have taken travel expected 
upon this route, though the number of passengers have 
increased, as will be seen by the following tables ; and 
nowhere have the people been better served, for nowhere 
has a line of road had more careful and gentlemanly con- 
ductors, or better employees generally ; and this stands out 
in bold relief in the simple fact, that in twenty years, and in 
carrying all this multitude of passengers, to this day, not a 
single passenger has been killed in any regular train of tlie 
companies. 

The following table will show the number of passengers 
carried over the roads, and the increase of travel. 

EASTERN RAILROAD. 



1841, up to 1,022,050 

1842, 430,621 

1843, 417,536 

1844, 497,758 

1845, 617,466 

1846, 700,410 

1847, 795,966 

1848, 899,229 

1849, 1,047,410 



1850, 1,037,510 

1851, 993,156 

1852, 1,004,991 

1853, 1,099,411 

1854, 1,181,514 

1855, 1,054,087 

1856, 1,151,200 

1857,.,... 1,377,157 



THE RAILROADS. 



PORTLAND, SAGO AND PORTSMOUTH RAILROAD. 

1853, 232,390 

1854, 285,284 

1855, 278,298 



1845, 113,928 

1846, 121,161 

1849, 195,195 

1850, 225,297 

1851, 212,889 

1852, 223,695 



1858, 284,000 

1857 256,919 



The amount of merchandise carried in the same years, 
bears good comparison with the passengers. It has increased 
in about the same ratio. The freight receipts on the main 
track of the Eastern road the last year were S?126,708.88, and 
the receipts of the Portland^ Saco and Portsmouth road, for 
the same time, S56, 104.49. 

The number of trains running from Boston averages through 
ihe year, to Salem 12 each way daily, to Newbnryport 5, to 
Portsmouth 3, to Portland 2. The trains are regulated to meet 
the convenience of travellers ; the through trains connect 
at both points with different railroad and steamboat lines to 
various parts of the country. The time tables are kept with 
wonderful accuracy, and aside from accidents to machinery, 
which are very rare, the variation of a few minutes even to 
through trains is an unusual occurrence. The trains run en- 
tirely independent of freight cars, and no detention can occur 
from the business to interrupt regularity. 

It may not be amiss here to give some data, of the incorpo- 
ration, of the progress of construction and opening, before we 
turn to notice what may be worthy of attention along a route 
so rich in historical, legendary and statistical information. 

The roads which united the two great cities of Boston and 
Portland are under the control of three corporations^, though 
two of them are managed by one company — the Eastern 
Railroad of Massachusetts, terminating at the line between 
that state and New Hampshire, a distance of 38 miles, and 
the Eastern Railroad of New Hampshire, running from the 



THE RAILROADS. 5 

last named point to Portsmouth, 16 miles. These roads ex- 
ist, of necessity, as two corporations, but are operated by the 
Massachusetts company, and having interests identical, ace 
known only to the public as the Eastern Railroad. The 
Portland, Saco and Portsmouth Railroad, 51 miles in length, 
is controlled by the Boston and Maine Railroad Company and 
the Eastern Railroad Company, by perpetual lease, made 
April, 1847, which provides that the two last named corpora- 
tions shall assume all the property of the first named compa- 
ny, with all its rights, liabilities and obligations ; maintain 
and operate said road, according to the provisions of the 
charter ; receive all its income from every source, with' the 
same powers of disposing of its property, except the road 
itself, as was possessed by its own Directors ; and that six 
per centum per annum, on the stock, shall be paid as thje 
consideration. It exists and is managed, however, as a dis- 
tinct corporation, conducting all its affairs as provided for by 
its /charter and the laws of the State in which it is located. 

The act incorporating the Eastern Railroad Company, in 
Massachusetts, was approved April 14th, 1836 ; that incor- 
porating the Eastern Railroad in New Hampshire was ap- 
proved June 18th, 1836, and the two Companies were im- 
mediately organized. The Portland, Saco and Portsmouth 
Company was incorporated March 14, 1837. The Eastern 
Railroad was opened to Salem, August 27, 1838; to New- 
bury, June 19, 1840; to Newburyport, August 28, 1840; to 
Portsmouth, November 9, 1840 ; and the Portland, Saco and 
Portsmouth Road opened its whole line on the 21st day of 
Novenber, 1842. The Marblehead Branch Read, 3 miles 
in length, was opened December 10, 1839, and has cost 
855,843 05 ; the Gloucester Branchy 13 miles, was opened 
December 1, 1847, and has cost $338,879 71. The Salis- 
bury Branch was opened January 1^ 1848, and has cost 
$79,189 38. 



6 THE RAILROADS. 

The Eastern Railroad Corporation, outside of its main line 
of road, has an immense interest, which, perhaps, it will 
not be uninteresting to speak of, not only as showing the ex- 
tent of road connected therewith, but the great power of 
the Corporation. In addition to the branch roads already 
mentioned, which were chartered directly by the company, 
and built by their capital, they have other tributaries, origin- 
ally in the hands of distinct corporations. The Essex Rail- 
road, extending from Salem to Lawrence, a distance of little 
more than 21 miles, is mortgaged to the Eastern Railroad 
Company, to secure the payment of a Joan, which now 
stands at about $350,000. The franchise and property of 
said Company, w'lll, it is presuined, soon become the pro- 
perty of the Eastern Railroad. One thousand shares of the 
Grand Junction Road, which unites the great lines of road 
in New England, are owned by the Eastern Railroad. The 
South Reading Branch road, 8 miles in length, has been 
purchased by this Company at an expense of S299,120 29, 
and on the 1st of September, 1851, the Company assumed 
control and commenced operating the same. The Saugus 
Branch Road, running from Boston through Maiden and 
Saugus to the main line in Lynn, about 8 miles in length, 
was incorporated April 28, 1848. The Eastern Road pur- 
chased at first, nine hundred shares of the stock, at 680 per 
share, the par value being Si 00. Subsequently, the balance 
of the stock was bought; and finally, under an act of the 
Massachusetts Legislature, a sale and transfer of the property ' 
and franchise of said Saugus road was made. The whole 
cost of this road w^as $236,246 82. The Eastern road also 
hold $49,500 in the Great Falls and South Berwick Branch 
road, and have guaranteed bonds to the amount of $60,000. 
The Corporation have accepted a guaranty to the Great Falls 
and Conway Railroad Company, to secure the payment of 



THE RAILROADS. 7 

bondsj to the amount of Si 00, 000. Besides these, other loans 
and securities have been made, all of which it is believed 
are safe, if not profitable investments. 

The management of the roads has been most skillful, and 
with one or two exceptions, the officeis controlling affairs 
have been gentlemen of the highest position, selected by the 
stockholders for their general integrity, intelligence and busi- 
ness capacity. Indeed, it is not too much to say that tl^ 
highest positions of life and most responsible offices of gov- 
ernment, would have been honored by the men who have 
presided over and controlled the affairs of these corporations. 
The reverses that have been met with, were not to be attrib- 
uted to any fault of government, but rather to natural causes, 
and in only one instance to misplaced confidence. The 
roads as they now stand are in a good financial condition, and 
are constantly and steadily improving. 

There is no line of road throughout the United States, that 
is kept in a more perfect condition than this. The roadbed, 
superstructure, bridges, depots, buildings and equipments 
are in the best order, and the rolling stock is equal if not su- 
perior to that of any other road. The most careful attention 
is paid in keeping the wooden bridges along the route in a 
good and safe repair, and every one at all acquainted with 
their condition will pronounce them to be in the very best 
order. Wherever these structures can be done away with, 
solid embankments and arches of masonry have been substi- 
tuted, not only for safety, but as a matter of economy. The 
track has been thoroughly repaired, and relaid with the best 
and most improved rails, upon new sleepers; and 
every exertion made to make the road perfect. The great 
security of this route from accident, the regularity and punct- 
uality of its trains, the courtesy and accommodating spirit of 
its conductors and employees, the superior i?onveniences and 



8 THE RAILROADS. 

comfort of its cars, its extensive and enlarged facilities, its 
spacious and well appointed depots, its reasonable rates of 
fare, in addition to the delightful country through which it 
passes, recommends it to the traveller, either upon a business 
OT pleasure trip, as the best route between Boston and Port- 
land, and the finest avenue to a large number of waterings 
places, the charms and attractions of which are not excelled 
by any other resorts in the country. 



OFFICERS OF THE CORPORATIOxVS. 

EASTERN RAILROAD. 

President — John Howe. 

Directors— ^o\va. Howe, Samuel Hooper, Geori^e IM. Browne, 
John C. Lee, Nathan P. Chase, Micajah Lunt, Heru'y H. Ladd. 

Treasurer — John B. Parker. 

Auditor and General Agent — A. Thorndike. 

Superintendent — Jeremiah Prescott. 

Freight Agent — W. J. C. Kenney. 

Conductors — Portland Trains, Benjamin H. Cram, E. A. Towie ; 
Portsmouth Trains, E. B. Young ; Newburyport Trains, Edwin 
Leigbton ; Salem Trains, John D. Skinner ; Beverly Trains, 
Geo. E. Goldthwait ; Gloucester Trains, Camden C. Davis ; Salis- 
bury Trains, Newell IMarden ; Marblehead Trains, John Harris. 

PORTLAND, SACO & PORTSMOUTH ROAD. 

President — Ichabod Goodwin. 

Directors — Ichabod Goodwin, Charles E. Barrett, James Hay- 
ward, Albert Thorndike. Josiah Calef, Thomas TVest, John Howe. 

Treasurer — Eliphaiot Nott. 

Auditor — Charles E. Barrett. 

Superintendent — John Rassell. 

Freight Agent— lsa,a.c W. Eaton. 

Conductors — Portsmouth to Portland : WUliam Akerman, Oliver 
Tbwle, Alex. Rowe. 



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10 



THE RAILROADS. 



PORTLAND, SACO & PORTSMOUTH ROAD. 

PORTSMOUTH TO PORTLAND. ^ 



BETWEEN 



Cape Elizabeth and 



Scarborough, 



West Scarborough, 



Saco or Biddeford, 
Kennebunk, . . , 



Wells. 



North Berwick, 



South Berwick, . 



Gt.Falls.Bran. June, 
Elliot, .... 



Kittery, 



Portsmouth, 



20 



30 
40 
75 
90 
1 05 
1 15 



I 25 
1 40 
I 50 



I 50 



20 



75 



90 



1 05 
1 15 



1 25 



1 40 
1 50 



1 50 



15 



25 



55 



75 



90 



1 05 



1 15 

1 25 



1 40 



1 40 



^ 



65 



1 05 



1 15 



1 30 



1 30 



35 

50 

65 

80 

90 

1 00 

1 15 

1 15 



25 
40J15 
5025 
6035 



7550 
75150 



20 W 



20! 8 



FROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND. 

BY EASTEEN RAILROAD. 




Leaving the Depot of the Eastern Railroad on Causeway 
street^ at the foot of Friend and Canal streets, we commence 
our journey. This depot, although originally built as a tem- 
porary station-house, has been found to oflfer such advantages 
that the Company have concluded to improve upon it, and 
continue its occupancy. It is one of the most spacious in 
the city, and has accommodations for passengers possessed 
by few others. The cars run in upon one side and pass 
out upon the other, so that no mistake can be made in enter- 
ing trains, and all confusion is avoided. The entire freight 
business of the road is transacted at East Boston, at the for- 



12 BOSTON. 

mer terminus of the road from Portland, and none but pas- 
senger cars enter this building. This saves much delay 
and very greatly adds to the safety of trains. The Superin- 
tendent, and other officers of the road, have offices upon the 
second floor of this building, for the convenience of those 
VTho have business with them. A room is also occupied 
by the Conductors, while their trains are in the city. 
The President, Treasurer and Directors have offices in 
the Phoenix Building, on Congress square. Among the 
contemplated improvements upon the depot, are the erection 
of a tower, fifteen feet high, to contain a clock and exhibit a 
dial, which will be so arranged as to be seen from Faneuil 
Hall. 

Running out of the depot we pass in sight of the Lowell 
and the Fitchburg railroad stations, by the engine houses and 
machine shops, connected with the various roads concentra- 
ting at this point, all of which stand upon a locality which 
but a few years since, was a sheet of water. A few hundred 
feet from the depot we pass over the substantial bridge span- 
ning the Charles and Miller river, \vhich unite above, and 
which at this point are thickly bridged by the structures of 
various railroad corporations. 

The large stone building on our left, seen before we get 
fairly off the bridge, is the new city Jail, one of the best ap- 
pointed and most substantial structures in the country. The 
(MJtagonal building in the center is used for the general pur- 
pose of the keepers and superintendents. It is 75 feet 
square, and 85 feet high. The wings vary in size from 164 
to 55 feet, to 64 by 55 feet, and are used, those on the north, 
south and east for cells, and the west for working-rooms for 
the house-keepers. The structure is of brick and iron, faced 
with Quincy granite. It is so constructed as to form a prison 
inside of a prison. It has been occupied but a few years. 



BOSTON 



13 



The number of inmates at the present time, is 161. Its lo- 
cality is near the foot of Cambridge street, on land reclaimed 
from the harbor. 




B08T0K JAIL 



At this point one can have a fine view of the city and har- 
bor, and also of Cambridge, which lays upon our left. The 
city, rising from the water like a huge giant, its head the tow- 
ering cupola of the state house, with its arms stretching upon 
either side, enclosing a happy, a great, a prosperous people. 
The harbor spreads out before us, with its area of seventy- 
five square miles, alternately relieved by the verdure and 
beauty of its numerous islands, and bordered by bays, coves 
and inlets, indenting the shores, and forests of masts rising 
from bottoms that have plowed the waters of every sea and 
ocean, and now and then the black smoke-pipes of steam- 
boats appearing in sight. We must leave the great metrop- 
olis of New England, with its magnificent sights and busy 
populace, referring those who wish to acquaint themselves 
with its attractions, to that excellent little book, recently pub- 
lished — '' Sights in Boston and Suburbs *' — and whiz by, un 



14 



SOMERVILLE 



noticedj the numerous manufactories farther on our left, whose 
tall symmetrical chimneys have excited our curiosity. 




BOSTON HABBOB. 



SOMERVILLE, 

1 mile from Boston, 106 from Portland, 

Is the first town on our left. It contains a population of 
5,806, and was incorporated in 1842, being originally a part 
of Charlestown. The two hills which rise above the sur- 
rounding country, are the celebrated Winter Hill, where 
Gen. Burgoyne's army encamped as prisoners of war after 
their defeat and capture at Saratoga, and Prospect Hill, from 
which was lighted the first signal fire to apprize the minute 
men at Lexington and Concord, of the arrival of the British 
troops. Upon these hills Gen. Putnam", with a force of 4000 
men, remained for several weeks until Gen. Washington 



SOMERVILLE. 15 

arrived to take command of the American army. The pros- 
pect frorri these eminences is very fine, embracing the city 
of Boston and the surrounding places. The town has rapidly- 
increased in population. Its proximity to Boston, and the 
facilities possessed by it, in going to and fro, with its natural 
charms, have made it attractive as a residence for Boston 
merchants. The great number of elegant houses and 
beautiful surroundings, exhibit the presence of wealth and 
taste. Four railroads pass through the town. There are 
several manufactories here, though none of great importance. 
The Shaw-Sheen, a fine stream, runs through the town. The 
group of buildings upon the hills within sight, one of 
which is surmounted by an elegant dome, constitute the 
McLean Asylum, tor the Insane, named from John Mc- 
Lean, an eminent merchant, of Boston, and a liberal bene- 
factor of the Massachusetts General Hospital, of which this 
is a branch. The Asylum was built in 1817, and was opened 
October, 1818. The institution enjoys a high reputation, the 
system of moral treatment adopted and pursued, has proved 
most beneficial. Every indulgence which is considered pro- 
motive of health, that can reasonably be given, is enjoyed by 
the inmates. The buildings are large and exceedingly well 
adapted to the design. They have cost upwards of ^200,- 
000. Belonging to, and surrounding this asylum, are about 
15 acres of land, appropriated to courts and gardens. These 
are laid out with gravelled walks ; the former are furnished 
with summer houses, and the latter are ornamented with 
groves of fruit and ornamental trees, shrubbery and flowers. 
Surrounding the lower gardens, and within the enclosure, is 
a carriage path, where patients are taken to ride. In the 
centre is a small, fresh water pond, containing several hun- 
dred gold and silver fishes, and immediately contiguous is a 
summer house, where the patients, at times resort for games 
and amusements. 



16 SOMERVILLE. 

Tufts College, a Universalist institution^ the only one in 
this country, situated on Walnut Hill, was chartered in 
1852. This institution, which is liberally endowed, is named 
from a citizen of the place, who gave a large and beautiful 
tract of land for the location. The institution was established 
by the Universalists, though it is not sectarian in its charac- 
ter, each student being left to choose his own meeting, and 
to enjoy his own religious opinions. Its fund is large. The 
system of instruction is adapted, not only to those who wish 
to fit themselves for the professions, but also to the farmer, 
mechanic or manufacturer, particular attention being paid to 
the natural sciences. 

On the left of the track, about 2 1-2 miles from Boston, is 
Mount Benedict, upon the banks of the Mystic river. The 
ruins standing upon the summit of the hill, are portions of 
the Ursuline Convent, burnt by a mob, on the 11th of August, 
1834. This convent was established in Boston, in 1820, un- 
der the care of Madame St. Joseph, as Superior. The order 
cf St. Ursuline is, by their religious profession, devoted to 
the education of female youth, consequently the institution 
was, to all intents and purposes, a female seminary. 

The success of the experiment was soon certain ; but the 
building in which the nuns resided was not in a pleasant sit- 
uation, and they concluded to leave the city, and establish 
themselves where they could have gardens and grounds for 
those exercises and recreations which are so indispensable to 
the health of children and sedentary persons. In pursuance 
erf this plan, they purchased an estate of twenty-seven acres 
in Charlestown, and in nearly the centre of their grounds, on 
a hill which they named Mount Benedict, they erected a 
spacious and handsome brick edifice. Hither they removed 
in 1826, and entered zealously on their labors of improving 
their property, and '^ rearing the tender minds " committed 
to their care. 



S M E R Y I L L E . IT 

The situation of the place they had chosen was spiendid • 
Mount Benedict cominanded tiie most varied and delightful 
scenery; Charlestown, Cambridge, Boston, the river, and the 
harbor with its islands, might all be viewed from the windows 
of the convent. But when they purchased the estate its 
'• capabilities '' ^vas all it had to recommend it ; IMount Sen- 
edict was a rough, bleak hill, and the land around a broken 
looking waste. In eight years the institution and its grounds 
were the admiration of strangers and the pride of Catholics. 

The school in the meantime, had continued to increase. 
During its last year, more pupils bad been offered than could 
be accepted. The season had been propitious: their gardens 
were in a state of high cultivation ; everything around them 
looked beautiful and flourishing, and nothing portended the 
destruction which was at hand. • 

On the night of the Uth of August, 1834, a large mob 
assembled upon the grounds, excited to outrage by reports of 
improper conduct in the convent, and of the confinement of 
some females by threats and force, who wished to leave the 
institution, and after repeated threats, they drove the inmates 
from the house, and set fire to it, burning it to the ground. 
The outrage created much excitement, not only in Boston 
and vicinity, but throughout the country, exciting the just 
indignation of law-loving citizens. Parties were arrested and 
but one man could be convicted. He was punished by im- 
prisonment. The land is sfiU held by the Catholics, all ef- 
forts to its improvement having failed. It will probably be 
kept as a monument of the recklessness of man, and the 
ruins preserved in hope to show ihe visitor marks of persecu- 
tion, — though the community then as now, frowned upon the 
act as dastardly and unbecoming a people that lived under 
the shadow of church spires. 



18 



CHARLESTOWN, 

1 mile from Boston, 106 from Fortland. 

Upon the right hand, a short distance from the Somerville 
stalion, is one of the most beautiful cities in New England, 
and historically, one of the most interesting spots on the con- 
tinent. It was built upon a peninsula, which a quiet Indian 
tribe, the Ahcrginians, occupying before the whites, called 
Mishau-arn^ about half as large as Boston, and, like.that city, 
having three hills — Bunker, Breed's and Town — the latter of 
which has been much reduced. The first settlers were from 
Salem, and the town was organized in 1628, two years before 
Boston. It might have taken the place of Boston in impor- 
teince as the capital, for Gov. VVinthrop, in 1630, made it his 
head-quarters, but for a mortal sickness which prevailed, sup- 
posed to be caused by the water, that induced the Governor 
to move across the river. It took its name from Charles I, 
king of England, when it was settled. 

Extending as it does out between the Mystic and Charles 
rivers, its summits and slopes furnish delightful sites for res- 
idences, and many of the merchants and business men of 
Boston reside here. It is connected to Somerville by a nar- 
row neck of land, and to Boston, Maiden, Chelsea and Cam- 
bridge by bridges. From its square, near which are several 
churches and elegant public edifices, it streets open out at 
vaTious angles, and are generally wide, airy, shaded by 
trees, and lined by beautiful residences. A horse railroad 
runs from the square into Boston. Charlestown was char- 
tered as a city in 1847, and now has a population of 21,700 

The place is memorable for the part it took in the struggle 
for American independence ; and Bunker Hill, the spat 
where the first regular battle was fought, on the 17th of 



C H A R L E 8 T W N . 19 

where the monument rises to the view of all 
the surrounding country, to the patriot will always be holy 
ground. In this battle the British had some 5000 veteran 
soldiers, under command of the most experienced generals, 
a^d the Americans not more than 2000 raw militia-meuj 
•pborly supplied with the munitions of war, under their brave 
leader, Prescott ; yet they were not only able to hold their 
position, but when the powder failed, to make good their 
retreat. The British lost 1054 men slain, among whom were 
several commissioned officers, and received a lesson, and 
slich a warning, as was not forgotten in all the war; and 
American liberty may be dated from the battle of Bunker 
Hill, The Americans had 145 killed and 304 wounded. 
The first person killed is supposed to have been a young 
man named Pollard, from Billerica, who was struck in the 
head by a cannon ball from the line of battle ship Somerset, 
then lying in the harbor. He was standing so near to Col. 
Prescott, who commanded the forces, that the blood and 
brains were thrown over that officer. The men were so in- 
experienced in war, that Prescott ordered him to be buried, 
at once, upon which a subaltern officer expressed surprise 
tli^t he should be buried without having prayers said. But 
he most lamented, fell later. Major General Warren, at 
that time President of the Colonial Congress, who had vd- 
uriteered on this occasion as a private, and fought in tho 
redoubt with his musket, animating the men by the influence 
of his example, to the most daring determination, which did 
not yield even when the town was in flames, and Charles- 
towa burned to the ground by the enemy. 



20 



CHARLESTOWN 





BUKKEB HILL 



CHARLESTOWN. 21 

Upon the spot where Warren fell, the monument, upon 
an emmence 62 feet above the sea, rises 221 feet. Tt is a 
plain granite shaft, 30 feet square at the base and 15 feet at 
the top. The coiner stone was laid in 1825, with Masonic 
honors, by the venerable Marquis Lafayette, then on a visit 
to this country. Hon. Daniel Webster pronounced the ora- 
tion. It was completed in 1842, and in June, 1843, in com- 
memoration of the event, and in the presence of the President 
of the United States and the Cabinet, Mr. Webster delivered 
another oration, portions of which splendid production will 
prove as lasting as the monument itself. The shaft is as- 
cended within by a circular flight of 294 steps, and in the 
top are two cannon, which constituted just one half of the 
whole train of field artillery possessed by the Colonies at the 
commenct3ment of the war, and which were used in many 
of the engagements during the revolution. A beautiful 
statue of Gen. Warren was inaugurated upon these grounds, 
June 17, 1857, upon which occasion was one of the finest 
displays ever made by the Masonic fraternity. The 
ceremonies were performed by John T. Heard, Grand Ma- 
sonic Master, and the oration pronounced by Hon. Edward 
Everett. 

The square upon which the monument stands embraces 
some six acres, enclosed by an iron fence. Some marks of 
the battle still remain upon the ground. 

It was upon this spot that the authorities of Charlestown 
received the Hungarian patriot, Louis Kossuth, when he was 
in America. In gazing upon the monument, he stretched 
out his arm and pointing his trembling finger to the monu- 
ment, broke forth in an apostrophe which has no equal in 
language : — 

'' My voice shrinks from the' task to mingle with the awful 
pathos of that majestic orator ! Silent like the grave, and yet 



22 CHABLESTOWN. 

melodious like the song of immortality upon the lips of cher- 
■Qbiras ; — a senseless, cold granite, and yet warm with inspi- 
ration like a patriot's heart; — immovable like the past, and 
yet stirring like the future which never stops; — it looks like 
a prophet and speaks like an oracle. And thus it speaks :-^ 

" The day I commemorate is the rod with which the hand 
of the Lord has opened the well of liberty. Its waters will 
flow. Every new drop of martyr blood will increase the 
tide. Despots may dam its flood but never stop it. The 
higher its dam, the higher the tide. It will overflow or 
break through. Bow, and adore, and hope ! " 

" Such are the words that come to my ears; — and I bow, — 
I adore, — I hope. In bowing, my eyes meet the soil of Bun- 
ker Hill — that awful opening scene of the eventful drama, 
to which Lexington and Concord had been the preface. The 
spirits of the past rise before my eyes. * # # AH the 
spirits of that most eventful victory, under the name of de- 
feat — I see them all. The e3^es of my soul are familiar with 
the spirits of the ma.rtyrs of liberty. But those I see around 
me have no sad, ghastly look, they bear no gushing wounds 
cSrying for revenge to the Almighty God ; the smile of eter- 
nal bliss is playing around their lips, and though dwellers of 
heaven, they like to visit the place where their blood was 
spilt. It was not spilt in vain. Their fatherland is free ; and 
there is a joy in that thought adding ever a new charm even 
to the happiness of blessed souls. As the fabulous divinities 
of ancient Greece like to rest from the charms of heaven 
on Mount Olympus, so must the spirit of Warren like to rest 
on the top of this monument here. 

'' jMartyrs of my country ! how long M'ill it yet be, till a 
like joy will thrill through your departed souls 1 When will 
the smile of that joy play aroimd your lips'? How long will 
yet the gash of your wounds cry for revenge — your father' 



CHARLESTOWN. 23 

land still bleeding, down-trodden, oppressed ? Almighty 
Father of mankind, let the day of thy mercy be not too far I'' 
At the foot of the hill, in an easterly direction, is the 
United States Navy Yard, coveting an area of about one hun- 
dred acres. A substantial sea wall, of granite blocks, en- 
closes a portion of the yard. The wharves and ship housas 
occupy the remaining space. That stupendous piece 6{ 
masonry, the dry dock 311 feet long, 80 wide, and 30 deep, 
completed in June, 1833, at a cost of S675 000, has been 
found insufficient for the huge war steamers, and workmen 
are now engaged in extending its dimensions, adding 65 feet 
to its length, at a cost of S250,000. This labor will occupy 
about two years. Great improvements are going on in vari- 
ous parts of the yard, which before contained spacious and 
substantial edifices, for almost every kind of mechanical 
work. A granite store-house, 260 feet in length, has just 
been completed. The old timber dock, covering an area of 
eleven acres, has recently been surrounded by a stone wall. 
Extensive iron works, embracing an iron foundry, a smitb- 
ery, forge shop, machine shop, and boiler shop, are in the 
process of erection. The buildings comprised in these worlis 
are arranged upon three sides of a parallelogram, 285 by 475 
feet, equal to a line 1105 feet in length and in width 75 feet. 
The smoke chimney is 32 feet square at the base and 2®0 
feet high. The several shops are to be fitted with the neces- 
sary conveniences and tools for the constructiori of the larg- 
est class of marine engines, and all other machine and ordi- 
nance works required in the navy. The neatness and regu- 
larity of the entire yard will strike the visitor with surprise, 
and the presence of shade trees, and display of taste, convey 
a very favorable impression. The huge ships, a number of 
which are continually at and around the yard, are as tidy and 
neatly arranged as a lady's parlor, and the discipline main- 



24: H A E L E S T W N . 

tained shows the efficiency of the officers. The thousand 
objects of interest met at every turn, a lack of space will 
oblige us to pass by. 



The State Prison, the stone building which we passed on 
the right, on leaving the bridge, is located in this city, and 
is enclosed by a high, solid stone wall. The building is in 
shape of a cross, having four wings, united to- a centre octa- 
gonal building, three of which are for the convicts. It was 
founded in 1800, very much improved in 1826, formerly be- 
ing so limited in accommodaiions that two or three were 
placed in one cell ; and in 1850 slill furlher improvements 
were made, whicli are said to make it superior to any build- 
ing of the kind in the country. ' The building is fire proof, 
and proof against escape, as by breaking from a cell, the 
prisoner is yet separated by impregnable stone walls from 
Jibejty. Every comfort and privilege, consistent with good 
government, and the purpose of the institution, is afibrded 
the prisoners. The workshops of the prison are spacious and 



CHARLES TOWN 



25 



convenient, and the labor of the inmates is a source of con- 
siderable revenue to the prison. A melancholy interest 
attaches to this institution from the fact that three of 
its wardens have within a few years past been murdered 
by the prisoners. The first happened years since. The 
murderer, Rogers, was supposed to be insane. The 
warden, Mr. Lincoln, was a favorite with the prisoners, 
and no adequate cause could be assigned for the deed. The 
second tragedy was on Monday, Dec. 15, 1856, when James 
McGee plunged a knife into Deputy-Warden Galen C. 
Walker, as he was leaving the chapel. Two weeks from that 




STATE PR I SON , 



time, the Warden of the prison, Solon H. Tenney, was 
killed by Charles L. Decatur, by being stabbed in the neck, 
in the workshop. These la^t two are now under sentence of 
death. The last catastrophe appears to have been the result 
of a conspiracy. Since these melancholy events the disci- 
pline of the prison has been more rigorous, and the force 
much augmented. At the last census there were four hun- 
dred and eighty-five prisoners within its walls. 



2'6 SOUTH M A L D E N . 

Crossing the Myslic river upon one of those substantial pile 
bridges, for which this road is celebrated, we hasten along 
in sight of beautiful villas and elegant residences, nestling" 
on the brow of yonder hill upon our left, and taking another 
view of the river side of Charlestown, with its crowded build- 
iags, and busy yards, with the granite shaft overtopping the 
hills, we arrive at the station in 



SOUTH MALDEN, 

4 miles from Boston, 103 miiles from. Portland. 

We pass through the portion of the town known as South 
Maiden. The population of Maiden, at the last census, was 
4,592. It was originally a part of Charlestown, called My©* 
tic Side, and was incorporated as a distinct town in 1649. 
We find nothing remarkable in its early history. In 1662, 
the town was in possession of a bell which was placed upon 
a rock, near the church, in conformity with a custom which 
then prevailed. The rock is now known as Bell Rock. 
There are two vilhiges in the town, in either of which we 
observed elements of success, and marks of thrift and pros- 
perity. An excellent water power runs through the town, 
and several manufactories of importance are in operation. 
The soil is unusually rich, and most beautiful gardens, at- 
tached to fine dwellings, are scattered through the villages. 
The broken surface of the land oflfers good localities, and ex- 
tensive prospects. The summit of Mount Washington, a 
charming eminence, commands one of the most delightful 
scenes. Overlooking the hills of Chelsea, the marine 
view extends afar off to where the waters wash the horizon ; 
while the whole circle of vision is filled up with the pano- 
ramic pomp of cities and villages, unfolding like a book, leaf 



CHEIvSKA, 27 

by leaf, and chapter by chapter, the untiring story of New 
Enghmd prosperity, Bay State enterprise and National fame. 
Several residences are located around this favorite 
mount, and upon its summit are neat cottages, with the 
surrounding grounds laid out with exquisite taste. A man 
with such a place may do without books, and feed his 
mind only on the material of which books are made ; may 
have higher thoughts, holier aspn-ations, wider sympathies, 
than are permitted to the humbler dwellers on the plains. 
Within a few years past, a large number of traders and mer- 
chants, have moved into town, and brought with them a de- 
sire for elegance as well as comfort. Great improvements 
are going on throughout the villages, and its attractions as a 
place of residence are becoming more and more appreciated. 
The most beautiful portion of the town is beyond view from 
the railroad, though along the route we pass many charming 
country seats. The Saugus Branch of this road, and the 
Boston and Maine Railroad, run through different portions of 
the town, affording ample accommodations to those doing 
business in Boston. One mile further on and we reach 



CHELSEA, 

5 miles from Boston, 102 miles from Portland. 

This town furnishes a good example of the efficiency ol 
enterprise, and the power of energy when properly applied. 
It was formerly a part of Boston, called Romney Marsh. Its 
Indian name was Winnisemit. At the time of its incorpo- 
ration, in 1738, it required to get into Boston with a team, a 
journey of more than twenty miles, although the distance 
across the water was less than one and a half miles. The 
rapidity of the growth of this town has not been equalled 



28 CHELSEA. 

in this coiiimomTeaUh, and the rise has been so astonishing 
that a few events QOiinected therewith will be of interest to 
the general reader. In the year 1831, nine individnals pur- 
chased the estate on which a large portion of the city now 
stands, and the ferry franchise connected therewith. At 
that time, two small sail ferry boats, of some twent/-fivB 
tons each, plied between Chelsea and Boston during^he 
summer, sometimes with head wind and tide, occupying 
from two to three hours in crossing, landing passengers upon 
a dilapidated wharf. There were south of the dep(5t, at that 
time, eight houses and twenty-nine inhabitants, men, women 
and children. All of the ground was then used for farming 
purposes. North of the railroad were some half a dozen 
houses. The only roads or streets were the Salem Turnpike, 
now Broadway, and the old county road, now Park and 
Hawthorn streets, and Washington street. This was the em- 
bryo state, in 1831-2, of this now flourishing city, which in 
1832 contained a population of but 35; in 1850, 6,151, and 
in 1855, the date of its last census, 10,151, an increase of 65 
percent, In 1831 an agreement was entered into between 
Boston and Chelsea, by which the latter agreed to surrender 
all share or right in the county property, on condition that 
Boston should pay all county taxes for 2Q years. This agree- 
ment expired in 1851, when it was proposed to annex the 
town to Boston, making it a distinct ward. The bill passed 
the Legislature, but was rejected by the people of Chelsea. 
In 1856 a city charter was obtained, and that form of gov- 
ernment adopted. The future prosperity of the city is 
beyond a doubt. Possessing every advantage that can 
be desired, with a site varied and beautiful, and an 
atmosphere salubrious and healthy, and facilities for manu- 
factures unequalled, and being within seven minutes of Bos" 
ton, it cannot but grow to rank among the largest of our cities. 



CHELSEA. 29 

The ] and is broken into several beautiful eminences, af- 
fording some of the most elegant sites for residences. 
Powder Horn Hill, the name of which originated in the fact, 
that in its purchase from the Indians, a powder hom was 
given in payment, the site of ancient wigwams, was recently 
purchased by a company, terraced, and streets laid out, por- 
tions of which are occupied by the tasteful houses of civili- 
zation. Substantial and elegant blocks of buildings, spring 
up as if by magic, all over the city, and numerous manu- 
factories and warehouses, with elegant public buildings, are 
scattered along the spacious streets. 

The ferry connecting the city with the foot of Hanover 
street, in Boston, is probably the oldest establishment of the 
kind in America. The first grant was given to Thomas 
Williams, in 1631, and its business has now so increased 
that t\vo commodious steamboats run during the day at in- 
tervals of five minutes. 

The United. States Marine Hospital and Naval Asylum are 
situated upon the government lands, in sight-'of the railroad. 
The old Marine Hospital, with the land adjoining, was a few 
months since disposed of by auction, throwing into market 
some very valuable property. The new Hospital, erected 
near the Asylum, is an elegant structure, unlike any build 
ing in this country. It is of the oriental order or style, with 
somewhat of the Italian finish. The material is brick and 
iron. The front and side views form a series of iron veran- 
dahs, fancifully wrought, with the most consummate taste. 
These rise one over the other, in terraces, supported by 108 
columns, with numerous arches, having grooved iron beams 
7 inches thick, in which the brick work rests. There are 
elegant belt courses of iron between each story, and the 
doors and windows are ornamented with iron caps. The 



30 NORTH CHELSEA. 

coving, 3 feet projecting, is also of iron. The house con- 
tains, 42 spacious rooms, beside the basement. The cost 
has been about §200,000. 

There is considerable manufacturing in the city, and most 
of the interests incident to suburban places, are in active 
operation. Three ship yards do a large business, and trade 
in general is brisk. Leaving this station, we roll along over 
land that in a few years will be covered with an active pop- 
ulation, by the hills on our right, and at a greater distanc^i 
upon our left, sprinkled over with pleasant homes, and fine 
cffchards and gardens ; over lands of the Gary Improvement 
Company, who are the owners of this isolated brick building, 
standing between the two stations of Chelsea, in readiness 
for the march of improvement. It was designed for a ma- 
chine shop, but its birth was untimely, and its youth has 
parsed in desolation and inactivity. A short distance and 
we reach 



NORTH CHELSEA, 

8 miles from Boston, 99 from Portland, 

One of the best agricultural towns in the State, with a land 
rich and productive to the highest degree. The station is 
one of so little importance, that if we do not stop here, tlie 
reader must not be surprised. The town contains less than 
a thousand inhabitants, among whom are many enterprising 
men. The beach which we pass on our right, is a lovejy 
place, and will some day become a popular watering resort. 
The three houses we see are very well patronized by tl^ 
Chelsea and Boston people, though the means of communi- 
cation are troublesome. A short distance from this last sta- 
tion is the old track to East Loston, now used in the freight- 



West Lynn, naiiant. 3i 

ng business by the road. From this point we find nothing 
of interest except the view of Lynn harbor, and the great 
marshes, over ^Yhich we ride for several miles to the station 
in 



WEST LYNN,, 

10 miles frora Boston, 97 miles from Portiaud. 

A station erected for the accommodalion of the Lynn passen- 
gers, who reside in this section of the town. We will not 
stop here, but pass along through a populous part of the 
city, the speed of the train and the constant jingle of the bell 
informing us that the hand of the enghieer is constantly on 
the lever, ready at an instant's notice to stop the engnie, in 
case of danger. A minute or two brings us to the Lynn sta- 
tion, a substantial and commodious depot, offering the best 
accommodations, and situated in the very centre of the busi-- 
ness portion of the city. 



NAHANT. 

Before we speak of Lynn, we must attend to those who 
have come thus far with us for the purpose of visiting Na- 
hant. Leaving the cars at this station, you will find coaches, 
omnibuses, and almost every sort of vehicle, staiiding arouiOid 
in waiting to convey you and such others as may wish to 
join you, to this destination. Taking a seat in a conveyance 
suited to your taste, a drive of half an h'.ur, over the Long 



32 N A H A N T . 

Beach and Little Naliaut. with its smooth lawns and verdant 
fields, over the Short Beach to Great Nahant, by its vine and 
tree embosomed cottages, with their beautiful gardens, will 
bring you to the Nahant House, a first class watering-place 
hotel, furnished with every accommodation desired, or to 
one or two public houses of less note, in the im-mediate 
neighborhood. There are private houses in the vicinity 
where accommodations may be obtained. 



The visitor to Nahant will find much to interest and in- 
Btiuct him. The continued action of the water through the 
ujiknown ages, upon the rocky outline of the promontory, bas 
worn it into innumerable shapes and fissures, which offer a 
rare field for the lover of the unique in nature. These, in 
their varied and curious formations, in the few years Nahant 
has been the resort of romantic pleasure seekers, have re- 
ceived various designations in accordance with their pecu- 



NAHANT. 83 

liaritles. The most prominent of Ihete we proceed briefly 
10 describe. 



I 34 



li^^ 



SWAL LOW'S CAVE 

is the greatest natuial curiosity to be found here. It opens 
on the south-eastern side of Nahani and extends entirely 
through the cliff, a distance of seventy-two feet, opening 
into the sea. At its mouth it is ten feet wide and eight high, 
enlarging as you proceed towards the centre, and narrowing 
again beyond. At low water the adventurer may pass com- 
pletely through it, and climb up the cliff on the other side. 
The swallows formerly inhabited this cave in great num- 
bers, and built their nests on the irregular rocks above, 
but the visitors have frightened them away. Southward 
from Swallow^'s Cave is Pea Island, an irregular rock, about 
twenty rods broad. It has a soil upon it, in which the sea 
pea grows. It is united to the Swallow's Cliff by a little 
isthmus, or beaches of sand, several rods long. 



34 



N A H A N T . 



Returning over the same clilf to its farthest western side, 
brings you to 




IRENE'S GKOTTO, 



a beautiful arch beneath the rockf=, grotesque and curious in 
its fo: 
by is 



its formation, leading to a large room in the rocks. Near 




PULPIT ROOK 



a large boulder rising abruptly to the height of thirty 
feet. The upper portion of the rock bears a striking resem- 



N A H A N T . 35 

blance to a pile of books, with a seat opening in the rear. 
Also you may here see the Natural Bridge spanning a deep 
chasm, and 




CASTLE ROCK, 

thus named from its resemblance to a feudal castle in ruins, 
is on the northeastern side of Nahant. With the help of a 
very little iniagination the outline of the battlements and 
towers and buttresses can be traced. Near this last is the 
Spouting Horn, from which, at a certain time of tide, and 
especially in great storms, the water is spouted with consider- 
able force. 




EGO BO C E 



is an isolated ledge, rising abruptly from the water, a hun- 
dred feet in height, bearing about due east from the ex- 
treme point of Great Nahant, from which it is distant three- 



^6 N A H A N T . 

fourths of a mile. In its whole extent it contains nearly 
three acres, but of this only half an acre is soil, npon which 
a rank grass flourishes. Thus the record might continue, and 
our visit extend to John's Pertl, the Iron Mine, Saunders' 
Ledge, Caldron Cliff, Roaring Cavern, and to that dan- 
gerous locality known as 




AG EO C K 



where the intrepid mariner has many a time gazed upon the 
fury of the surging billows, freighted with death and destruc- 
tion, as they bore to the shore the mangled bodies of his com- 
panions, and fragments of his staunch craft; but space fails, 
and we feel that our pen cannot do justice to the sublimity 
and grandeur of the objects around us. The eye must see the 
rocks in their wondrous formations, and the heart acknowl- 
edge the power that has thus wrought them, ere the wide, 
romantic beauty of Nahaiit can be appreciated. 

Nahant is a peninsula, extending some three miles into 
the sea, from the south side of Lynn, terminating in a rocky 
promontory. Its name is from iVa^aw^eatt, signifying tuins, 
in the original Indian tongue, and is appropriately applied to 



N A H A N T . 37 

the twill elevations of Great aiiJ Liltle Nahaiit, connected 
together and to the miin, by low and narrow beaches of sand. 
Of the early history of Nahant, but little of interest, nothing 
worthy of especial note, has come down to us from the 
fathers. The locality may have, it is true, its weird legends 
and wild traditions, transmitted from its fabulous age, which 
have been orally handed down from generatiou to generation, 
and which even now, linger in the memory of the oldest in- 
habitants ; but if such there are, and as we write, it occurs to 
us that we can dimly recall a few, we leave them as in duty 
bound to her living bard,* who may yet weave them into a 
grand Epic, and sing cf the peninsula as Virgil sung of 
Troy. 

Nahant was discovered in 1614, by the chivalric and fa- 
mous Capt. John Smith, of Pocahontas fame, in a voyage he 
made, in an open boat, along the coast, and named on his 
map the '• FuUerton Islands.'' Then a decade of years 
elapsed till the Council of England granted these ^-islands"' 
to one Robert Gorges; but that he ever visited his property 
is doubtful, and we find that in 1629 it was still occuped by 
the Indians. In 1673 the first house was built at Nahant. 
The second actual settler was James Mills, whose daughter 
Dorothy may indisputably claim the title of the first belle of 
this watering place ; for tradition speaks in glowing terms of 
her varied charms. She had a peculiar penchant for bathing, 
as have some of our modern belles, and the place where she 
gratified it, and laved her fair limbs and form, on summer 
evenings, bears the name of Dorothy Cove, even to this 
day. If the envious reader wishes to pay a pilgrimage to the 
spot, he will find it a little bay near the pond, a short dis- 
tance from Whitney's Hotel, in the south-eastern part of 
Nahant. 

* Alonzo Lewis, the '^ Lynn Bard." 



38 N A H A N r . 

As eaily as 16S8. a person of some distinction fancied a 
summer residence on Nahant. This was Edward Randolph, 
Secretary of State for Massachusetts, who petitioned Andros 
the Governor, for a grant of the whole peninsula. With this 
petition Andros, without right or precedent, did not fail to 
comply, but the actual proprietors, to whom the land had 
been granted, by a town act of Lynn, twenty years before, 
rallied to resist, and a tempest-in-a-teapot war followed. 
At the height of this Andros was deposed and impris- 
oned, and Randolph abandoned his claim. Tranquility fol- 
lowed down to 1707, during which time the peninsula did 
not flourish in the hands of the original grantees. At that 
time the old grants, bearing date in 1657, were annulled, 
and the land re-granted to actual settlers. It is on these last 
grants that the present proprietors base their claims. 

We pass over a period of more than a hundred year?, 
down to 1817, when Nahant appears to have first become a 
permanent summer resort. In that year the beautiful cottage 
of Hon. Thomas H. Perkins was built; a little later that cf 
Hon. Frederick Tudor, the great ice exporter. Since that 
time, down to the present date, many more have been erect- 
ed, some beautiful models of rural architecture. 

In 1819 the ' Sea Serpent"' made his first appearance ofi' 
Nahant, and since then has been seen by divers individuals, 
at various times. He is still visible, occasionally, to those 
who have unbounded faith; and who peihaps see fit to aid 
their vision with one or two draughts of the fluids that most 
abound at watering places. 

The first hotel on Nahant was opened on the site of the 
Nahant House, in 1820, a stone building, which was exten- 
sively improved, year after year, till 1850, when it passed 
into the hands of the present proprietor. 

In 1847, a road over Long Beach was built, partly by sub- 



N A H A N T . 39 

scription, and partly by the city of Lynn, at an expense of 
about ^3000. This road was swept away by the storm 
which destroyed Minot's Ledge Light-house, in 1851; but 
has since been rebuilt with a breakwater on an improved 
plan. Formerly this was a plank box filled with sand, but 
now a line of cedars with a foundation of kelp and sand, 
forms the barrier to protect the road from the encroachments 
of the sea. The tops of these trees serving to catch the 
sand; as it is blown about by the strong winds, making the 
bank higher and higher, year after year. This long row of 
cedars presenting a somewhat peculiar appearance, is dis- 
tinctly visible to the southward as we journey along towards 
Lynn, from the starting point. 

Thus, with a mere pen-stroke, with but the shadow of jus- 
tice to our subject, we trace the history of the peninsula, 
down through two and a quarter centuries, from where we 
found it, a savage-inhabited wilderness, through the wide 
steps of a rapid civilization, to where we leave it, the chosen 
resort of luxury and refinement, such as Rome knew not in 
her palmiest days. Something of a change would one of 
these quaint old fathers find between the Nahant where he 
hunted wild beasts and savages, and pastured his cattle, and 
the Nahant of to-day ; but not a greater, perchance, than we 
might discover, could we, after the lapse of another period 
of two hundred and a score of years, be permitted to revisit 
these " glimpses of the moon." Should we then, standing 
in the full meridian light of the new era of which we are 
now catching but the feeble morning ray, cast an eye over 
this brief record, we doubt not that we should smile grimly 
at our mention ot progress and •• refinement,"' and sigh that 
our lot upon earth was cast in the benighted age that boasted 
of the steam car as a rapid mode of travel, and the telegraph 
as a wonder almost supernatural. 



40 



LYNN, 

11 miles from Boston, 96 miles from Portland. 

Ill passing through a portion of this town, on the route 
from the- West Lynn Depot, we had an opportunity to observe 
its remarkable scenery and pleasant locality. It is the oldest 
towiij excepting Salem, in the county of Essex, and was 
formerly called Saugust. Its present name was given it in 
of a Mr. Whitney, who came from the town 





L Y ]S K DEPOT 



of Lynn Regis, or King's Lynn, in England. It was inhab- 
ited, before its settlement, by a tribe of Indians called Aber- 
ginians, whose possessions extended from the Charles Kiver 
to the Merrimac. The nasne of the Sachem who governed 
them was Nanepashemet, or the New Moon. At his death, 



LYNN. 41 

in 1619, his queen, ^^ Squaw Sachem," maintained the gov- 
ernment of most of the tribes in Massachusetts. The 
Sachem of the Saugus Indians lived near the eastern end 
of Long Beach, or Sagamore hill, and had the government 
of Lynn and Iv'Iarblehead, Mr. Lewis, in his excellent 
history of Lynn, tells that the first settlers were principally 
farmers, and possessed a large stock of horned cattle, sheep 
and goats. For several years before the land was divided, 
the cattle were fed in one drove, and guarded by a man, who 
from his employment was called a hayward. The people, 
for some years, lived in the most perfect state of democracy. 
They had town meetings every three months, for the regula- 
tion of their public aflairs, — they cut their wood in common, 
and drew lots for the grass in the meadows and marshes. 
The first houses in Lynn were rude structures, with steep 
roofs, covered with thatch or small bundles of sedge or straw, 
laid one over another. Beside the haste and necessity which 
prevented the construction of more elegant habitations, the 
people who had wealth were advised to abstain from all 
superfluous expenses, and to reserve their money for the 
public use. Even the Deputy-Governor, Mr. Dudley, 
was censured for wainscotting his house. These houses 
gradually gave way to a better class, all of which faced the 
South, that the sun, at noon, might '-shine square." The 
common address, of men and women, was goodman and 
good wife ; none but those who sustained some office of dig- 
nity, or belonged to some respectable family, were compli- 
mented with the title of Mister. In writing, they seem to 
have had no capital F ; and thus in the early records we 
find two small ones used instead ; and one m, with a dash 
over it, stood for two. 

Lynn was incorporated in 1630. Three towns, now called 
Lynnfield, Saugus, and Swampscott, have since been sepa- 



42 LYNN. 

rated from it. In 1850 it was chartered as a city. The pro- 
gress from the earliest times has been gradual. In 1638 
when Boston was a village containing twenty or thirty houses, 
Lynn had more than one hundred families. In 1765 the 
population was 2,198; in 1790, 2,291; 1800, 2,837; 1810, 
4,087; 1820,4,515; 1830, 6,138 ; T840, 9,367 ; 1850,13,615: 
1855, 15.713. 

This place is the great seat of the shoe manufacture, now 
the largest business in the commonwealth. It has risen to 
wealth and importance through the enterprise of its inhabit- 
ants principally in this occupation and trade. The manufac- 
ture of ladies' shoes was commenced here at a very early 
date. Indeed, the history of the town is the history of shoe- 
making in this region. In the year 1750, one John Adam 
Deaggor, came to Lynn from London, He was a skillful 
shoemaker, and through his influence a large number of 
young men were instructed in the art of making shoes, at 
that time an accomplishment quite different from that ac- 
quired in these days. This Deaggor finally died in the 
alms-house. The mode of conducting business before the 
Revolution was by confining operations to the family, and 
selling the wares in small lots. After the Revolution it was 
extended, and improvements have advanced until the city 
now manufactures a number of shoes far exceedmg any 
other town in the State. We give statistics for the year 1855, 
showing the value and number of shoes, and the labor em- 
ployed, 

Male operatives employed, - . . 4,545 

Female operatives employed, 



Boots and Shoes, pairs made, 
Value of same, - - - - 
Morocco Leather manufac'd in the city, 
Number of lasts made in the city, 



I 



6,476 


11,021 

9,275,593 

84,165,529 

407.486 

15^380 



L Y X N . 



43 



The growth of the boot and shoe business is an index of 
the growth of a branch which, including leather, did not in 
1845, exceed fifteen millions of dollars, and in ten years has 
increased more than three fold that amount. 

This city has the credit of erecting the first iron foundry in 
America, which was established in the year 1643, near Dun- 
geon Rock, upon the banks of the Saugus river. This foun- 
dry added greatly to the prosperity and importance of the 
town. The first Fire Engine in America was made in Lynn, 
by one Joseph Jenks, in 1654, and was used in Boston. 




MA P O F LTN 



The city is built on wide and pleasant streets, and is one 
of the most flourishing places in New England. From the 
eminences around, an enchanting prospect is presented to 



44 LYNN 



^ 



the eye, comprehending the harbors of Boston and Salem, 
with their numerous islands ; the spires and domes of these 
cities, and nearly the whole compass of Massachusetts Bay, 
with the sand hills and the outlines of Cape Cod stretching 
along the southern horizon. Jutting out into the sea, a few 
furlongs on the south, appear the rugged cliffs of Nahant, 
and the hard polished beach leading to it, known as Long 
Beach, which for a mile and a half is so hard that a horse's 
hoofs scarcely make an impression upon it. It was upon 
this beach that the Sagamore of the Saugus tribe used to 
assemble his people to pursue their games. They divided 
themselves into parties, and drawing a line along the sand, 
interchanged over it their tokens of friendship. They then 
engaged in running, leaping, shooting, and other sports, and 
those who were victorious gained prizes of skins, ornaments, 
or wampum. 

Lynn extends some miles on- the sea-shore. The raoit 
thickly settled portion is a plain between the hill and the 
sea, gently undulating toward the e-\trennlies, into graceful 
elevations, skirted on the south by the sea, and defended on 
the north by a range of rocky hills. Near the western boun- 
dary of the town is Tower Hill, on the west of which is the 
picturesque vale of Saugus river. Li the north-eastern part 
of the town is the village of Gravesend, which occupies a plain 
around a beautiful sheet of water called Wenuchus Lake, 
More northerly is the pleasant village of Wyoma, bordering 
on the lake of that name. There are iive other lakes in this 
neighborhood. The northwestern part of the city is a moun- 
tainous forest of several miles in extent, comprising a great 
variety of scenery, which will soon be traversed by winding 
avenues, and furnish delightful retreats for men of taste. 
The streets are generally fringed with trees. Around the 
beautiful parade ground, nearly a mile in length, are many 



L Y N N . 



45 



fine houses. Some of the modem edifices are spacious and 
elegant, and Ocean street; is lined for a great distance with 
tasteful villas, which look out upon the ocean, and command 
a view of Nahant. The residence of Alonzo Lewis, Esq.. 
the "Lynn Bard,'' and historian, to whose kindness we are 
much indebted, is located, as will be seen in the annexed 
engraving, upon a charming spot near the beach. The 
houses are principally of wood, two stories in height, and 
stand detached from each other. Nearly all have piazzas, 
and most have a small garden or court-yard, ornamented 
with trees. 




OtJSE, 



Among the most beautiful of the public buildings in this 
city, is the Lynn High School House, an engraving of which 
appears on the next page. It was dedicated in January, 
1851. The school maintains a high repatation. 



46 



LYNN. 

^!lliM'(llf;IIIfliliilMI^fI!P!I!I!!f[!|i[Ii;;f:' 






'!!'!ii 



^^*^ 




The Sagamore House, on our left, located a few rod? from 
the depot, may be mentioned as among the most elegant of 
the buildings in this vicinity. It is a good specimen of 



LYNN. 



47 



architectural beauty, and well furnished as a first-class 
hotel, uniting all the advantages of the city, with those of a 
watering place. A large stable, filled with excellent horses, 
is connected witlHhe house, from which carriages run at all 
hours of the day, to the famous "Long Beach," a short 
distance from the door, where commodious bath-houses, be- 
longing to the hotel, are situated. Mr, Thomas Rand, asso- 
ciated with whom is his son, Thomas B. Rand, under the 
firm of Thomas Rand & Son, have made the house a popu- 
lar resort for company from all parts of the country, who 
come hither for health and recreation. 





'it i\ 



1 1 fi i n i Hi li i^ M -k m «k Mii^ i « Hf i^ r s ? 







AOA]tfORE HOUSE 



The eminences in various parts of the city create a 
wild and beautiful natural scenery, of much grandeur. 
The abrupt cliff seen on our left, before we enter the city, 
is High Rock, which has an observatory upon it, overlooking 
the city, and commanding a wide sea view. It is the pro- 
perty of the "Hutchinson Singers," and is a place of much 
resort. 



4.8 LYNN. 

Near the observatory, upon the highest pomt of this tower- 
ing boulder, is a well twelve fe-t deep, containing a never 
failing spring of water. The well was made in 1846, under 
the direction of an unnatural power, as it is slated. One of the 
proprietors of the land, desirous of securing a supply of water 
without subjecting himself to the fatigue of bringing it from 
the base, 150 feet below, sought the assistance of a mesmeric 
subject, who in one of her far-seeing spells directed him to 
dig in a particular spot such a distance, when he would lind 
water. Following her directions the solid rock was blasted 
with perfect success, and the "weU now exists — as a curiosity 
to visitors. 

Near the foot of this rock, in a humble dwelling, for more 
than fifty years, lived the world renowned fortune teller, 
" Moll Pitcher " the oracle of the rich and poor, the learned 
and the unlearned, the accomplished and the vulgar, the 
timid and the brave. There was no port on either continent, 
where floated the flag of the American ship, that had not 
heard the fame of Moll Pitcher. She was born in the year 
1738, and died in 1813. She was connected with some of 
the best families in Essex county, and with the exception, of 
her extraordinary pretensions, there was nothing disreputable 
in her life or character. Her maiden name was iVlary Di- 
mond. In 1760 she married Robert Pitcher, by whom she 
had four children, one son and three daughters, whom she 
supported by her sldll in fortune telling. Her descendants 
are among the most respectable in Lynn. 

No lover of the curious in nature, will leave this city 
without paying a visit to the Dungeon Rock, or Pirates' Glen, 
situated about two miles from the depot, on the eastern bank 
of the Saugus river. Connected with this locality is a legend 
of interest, which with the consent of Mr. Lewis, w^e transfer 
to our pages. 



LYNN. 49 

" [ii the year 1658, there was a great earthquake in New 
England. Sometime previous, on one pleasant evening, a 
little after sunset, a small vessel was seen to anchor near the 
mouth of Saugus river. A boat was presently lowered from 
her side, into which foar men descended, and moved up the 
river a considerable distance, when they landed, and pro- 
ceeded directly into the woods. They had been noticed by 
only a few individuals ; but in those early times, when the 
people were surrounded by danger, and easily susceptible of 
alarm, such an incident was well calculated to awaken 
suspicion, and in the course of the evening the intelligence 
was conveyed to many houses. In the morning the people 
naturally turned their eyes towards the shore, in search of 
the strange vessel — but she was gone, and no trace could be 
found of her or her singular crew. It was afterward ascer- 
tained, that on that morning, one of the men at the Iron 
Works, on going into the foundry, discovered a paper, on 
which was written, that if a quantity of shackles, handcuffs, 
hatchets and other articles of iron manufacture, were made 
and deposited with secrecy, in a certain place in the woods, 
which was particularly designated, an amount of silver, to 
their full value, would be found in their place. The articles 
were made in a few days, and placed in conformity with the 
"directions. On the next morning they were gone, and the 
money was found according to the promise ; but though a 
watch had been kept, no vessel was seen. Some months 
afterward, the four men returned and selected one of the 
most secluded and romantic spots in the woods of Saugus^ 
for their abode. The place of their retreat was a deep, nar- 
row valley, shut in on two sides by high hills and craggy, 
precipitous rocks, and shrouded on the others by thick pines, 
hemlocks and cedars, between which there was only one 
small spot to which the rays of the sun at noon could pene- 



50 L Y N K . 

trate. On climbing up tlie rude and almost perpendicular '' 
steeps of the rock on the eastern side, the eye could command 
a full view of the bay on the south, and a prospect of a 
considerable portion of the surrounding country. The place 
of their retreat has ever since been called the Pirates' Glen, 
and they could not have selected a spot on the coast, for 
many miles, more favorable for the purposes both of conceal- 
ment and observation. Even at this day, when the neigh- 
borhood has become thickly peopled, it is still a lonely and 
desolate place, and probably not one in a hundred of the 
inhabitants has ever descended into its silent and gloomy 
recess. There the pirates built a small hut, made a garden 
and dug a well, the appearance of which is still visible. It i 
has been supposed that they buried money; but though! 
people have dug there and in several other places, none has 
ever been found. After residing there some time, this 
retreat became known, and one of the King's cruisers ^ 
appeared on the coast. They were traced to their glen, and 
three of them were taken and carried to England, where it • 
is probable they were executed. The other, whose name ' 
was Thomas Veal, escaped to a rock in the woods, about 
two miles to the north, in which was a spacious cavern, 
wiiere the pirates had previously deposited some of their 
plunder. There the fugitive fixed his residence and prac- 
ticed the trade of a shoemaker, occasionally coming down 
to the village to obtain articles of sustenance. He continued 
his residence till the great earthquake this year, when the 
top of the rock was loosened and crushed down into the , 
mouth of the cavern, enclosing the unfortunate inmate in its \ 
unyielding prison. It has ever since been called the Pirates' ' 
Dungeon, or Dungeon Rock." 

There is also a popular tradition that the pirates buried in 
the glen, at the foot of a certain hemlock tree, a beautiful 



S W A M P S C T T . 51 

female. The rotten stump of the tree may still be seen, 
and a hollow beside it, where people have dug in search of 
human bones. 

Great interest has always attached to this spot, and acting 
upon a popular belief that the cave contained valuable 
treasures, many individuals have conceived a purpose to 
open it, a few going so far as to waste time and money upon 
it. Some six years ago, by spiritual direction or encourage- 
ment, a Mr, Marble commenced the herculean labor of 
working down through the solid rock in the supposed ancient 
cave. The rock is of hard porphry, and he has persevered 
for years under such discouragements as would have dis- 
heartened any one not sustained by an extraordinary meaS' 
ure of faith and credulity. In the spring of this year, 1857, 
he had succeeded in working out, in the very bowels of the 
ledge, a chamber sufficiently large for a small dinner party 
to be accommodated in. This is within a few feet of where 
the cave is believed to exist, if the earthquake has not 
entirely destroyed it, hence, as a curiosity of art, if not of 
nature, the Dungeon Rock now affords something well- 
worthy of the traveller's attention. It appears, that if at any 
time the labors slack, the spirits reveal new inducements, 
and so the work yet goes cheerily on. 

From, the Lynn station we pass through fine fields and in 



SWAMPSCOTT, 

13 miles from Boston, 94 from Portland, 

A town of great natural beauty, with a harbor resem- 
bling the Bay of Naples. It was once a favorite place 
of the Indians, and the site of one of their villages. In 
1634, it was occupied as a farm by Sir John Humphrey, one 



52 • SWAMPSCOTT. 

of the original patentees of the colony of Massachusetts Bay 
and one of its earliest and most efficient benefactors, who 
remained here until 1641, when he was induced by his wife 
to return to England. The change from the highest position 
as the pride of youth and beauty, in the court of the first 
monarch in Europe, to this home in the cold and barren 
wilderness of Swampscott, occupied by its few lonely cot- 
tages, round which the Indians were roaming by day, and 
wolves by night, was too great for her to bear, and her sighs 
for her native land were too powerful for the loving heart 
which brought her hither. 

The first tannery in New England was erected here in 
1629, by one Francis Ingalls. The vats remained until 1825. 

It was a part of Lynn until 1852, when it was set off and 
incorporated a distinct corporation, retaining its Indian name. 
The town lies on the west shore of Massachusetts Bay, 
which is lined with cliffs, coves and beaches, in their appear- 
ance picturesque and romantic. But little of the finest 
portion of the place can be seen from the cars, though a few 
minutes ride down the road on our right, would show us 
some of the finest villas and sites in New England. There 
are three beaches on its sea shore. Phillip's Beach, 1 mile ; 
Whale Beach, 1-4 of a mile, and Blaney Beach, 1-3 of a 
mile in length. The principal points which jut out into the 
bay, are Black Wills' Rock Point, Phillip's Point and Eastern 
or Ocean Point, It is a famous summer resort, though no 
first class public house is maintained. Most of the visitors 
have dwellings in the vicinity or take board with their 
friends or in private families. Elegant and substantial resi- 
dences are quite numerous near the beach, which is regarded 
as a remarkably healthy location. Some good farms upon 
the line of road, are found in the Eastern section. It had 
at the last census, a population of 1335, which is steadily 
increasing. 



S W A M P S C T T . 53 

From this station on to Salem there is nothing of interest to 
attract our attention. The land is broken and sterile, and 
chiefly used for pasturage. It was once the hunting ground 
of the Indians, that unfortunate race which has disappeared 
from this land, leaving no monuments to mark their familiar 
spots, or to perpetuate their memory. The contemplation of 
the aggressions which so suddenly blotted them out, leads to 
sad reflections, and almost justifies their cruelties. Here 
were the scenes of their yoathful sports, and here were the 
graves of their fathers. Here they had lived and loved — here 
they had warred and sung, and grown old with the rocks and 
hills. Here they had pursued the game, — and over the wa- 
ters that bathe the beach, had they skimmed in their frail 
canoes. In the streams had they spread their nets, and 
gathered the niceties of the deep. Here the graceful forms 
of their daughters were reflected from the clear waters, and 
the green hills and verdant fields filled their hearts witli^joy 
and love. But they are gone, and over the greater part of 
New England, the voice of the Indians is heard no more. 
The ocean in which they had as often bathed their athletic 
limbs, and the streams which had yielded their bountiful 
supply, were abandoned in silent grief: and the free and 
fearless Indians who once wandered in all the pride of un- 
subdued nature, over the fields and among the forests, were 
driven from this land to seek a home they knew not where j 
and even when their weary feet found rest, the approaching 
tread of civilization warned them of their danger, and the 
wigwam that oflered them shelter was deserted for a home 
nearer the setting sun. But such was the destiny which 
the God of nations had fixed for them, and His purposes are 
beyond our ken. Our next stopping place is 



54 

SALEM, 

16 miles from Boston, 91 from Portland. 

As we approach the city over the bridge through the Mili 
Pond, as this inlet is called, we notice on our right, Lafayette 
street, the old road to Marblehead, within a few years built 
up lor a long distance with the most costly dwellings, and 
likewise running from this street, new ways, which ere long 
will be occupied, making the finest portion of the city. On 
the left hand we have a view of a section that has materially 
improved in appearance within a short time. 

But before we proceed we must inform our friends that the 
cars on the 

BRANCH ROAD TO TvIARBLEHEAD, 

noticed at length, at the close of our journey over the main 
line, leave this depot. Passengers for that place will change 
cars, and those who are bound for Danvers, Reading-, Law- 
rence and Lowell, or any of the interior towns, will find the 
passenger station of these roads a few minutes' walk from 
the depot at the foot of Washington street. 

Salem is the principal city in Essex county, and the oldest 
settlement in the bounds of the old Massachusetts colony. 
In many respects it is one of the most distinguished locali- 
ties in the New England States, and from the earliest period 
of its history has been a place of much importance. At one 
time she held all the trade of the Indies, and amassed 
therefrom splendid fortunes. The first American ship around 
the Cape of GooTl Hope was from Salem — the first to trade at 
Hindostan, Java, Sumatra, China, and, through the Dutch, with 
Japan, as with many other Asiatics, were from Salem. She 
sent the first to Madagascar, to Zanzibar, where they retain 
almost the total gum and ivory trade to this day; and to other 
ports in East Africa. She was among the first, if not the 



SALEM. 55 

very first, for ordinary commercial pursuits, on the west 
shores of Africa, and there she is the first now. She was 
the first at the mouths of the great South American rivers, at 
Montevideo and Para, where she retained the control for a 
long time, and yet leads in the rubber trade and hide bus- 
iness in South America. She opened trade with the Fejee 
Islands, and has ships there now : — she sent the first Ameri- 
can goods to traffic in New Holland; — she has her trade to-day 
with New Zealand ; and Salem men, if not vessels, were 
among the first from this quarter on the north-west coast of 
America; and in November of 1856, the first ship for com- 
mercial pursuits, sailed from her quiet waters to Japan. She 
has astonished the world with the enterprise of her merchant 
princes, by ' whom she became relatively more distiur 
guished than any other port on this continent ; and a well 
arranged history of her enterprises, from the time of her fisli- 
eries, and the primary investments of Higginson in foreign 
traffic, with narratives of early voyages, sketches of eminent 
sea captains and of the leading merchants, would be a work 
of intense interest. 

And not alone in commerce and trade has she won a rank 
among the cities. In letters her porition has been an envicV- 
ble one. Her literary institutions, her scientific societies, 
her library associations, her schools, her churches, are among 
the best in the country. From the earliest period to the pres- 
ent, especial care has been manifested in the intellectual 
advancement of her citizens. In 1641, March 30, "At tlie 
Quarterly Court, Col. Endecot moued about the fFences and 
about ffree skoole and therefore wished a whole towne meet- 
ing about it ; therefore that goodman Auger warne a towne 
meeting on the second day of the week." This is the first 
written intimafion that we have of instruction, without price, 
among our settlers. As early as 1631 an effort was made to 



56 SALEM. 

found a college, and from these times to the present, in 
everything which tends to exalt and ennoble the man, the 
most commendable spirit has been manifested. 

The town of Salem, formerly called Naumkeag. was seXXled 
in the year 1628, by Capt. John Endicott, with about 100 
others, many of whom were taken off by disetise and privation, 
whhin a short time. The next year Rev. Thomas Higginson 
and three other clergymen, accompanied by about 200 
others, came over from England, and most of the number 
setded here. The name of the town was dimmed lately 
changed to Salem, a Hebrew word meaning peace. The na- 
tives had forsaken the spot, so that in obtaining possession, 
no difficulties occurred. The township in 1637 compre- 
hended several of the adjoining towns, \vhich were subse- 
quently set off and incorporated as distinct corporations. 
The early records contain much of interest indicating the 
growth of Salem. One John Dunton, in 1686, writes, '•' I 
found this town about a mile long, with many fine houses in 
it, and it is reported the next town to Boston for trade." Its 
commerce began almost with its settlement, and continued 
with uninterrupted prosperity up to the last war. In 1796, a 
distinguished writer says, •' Salem is one of the handsomest 
towns in the United States. The number of its inhabitants 
amounts to ten thousand. The town, in reference to trade, 
ranks with those of the sixth rank in America, and with 
those of the second in Massachusetts. The uncommonly 
active and enterprising spirit of its inhabitants is the sole 
reason which can be ascribed for the great extent and rapid 
progress of its trade. Its haven is but small, at ebb the 
quays are dry, and vessels of a larger size must, even at 
high water, unload a part of their cargo, in order to be able 
to reach the quays. Yet notwithstanding these inconven- 
iences, the annual freightage from this port exceeds 20,000 



SALEM. 67 

tons.*' Number of vessels at that time in foreign trade 
100, in coasting 20, in the fisheries 30. The exports in 
1795 amounted to ^1,504,511. The same year, (March 
1796,) a writer remarks, '"'The last week has been a scene 
of general gloom and anxiety in this town. Our merchants 
have suspended their business, our sailors are wandering 
about for want of employment, and our laborers will soon 
be starving in idleness." This was occasioned by the spoil- 
ations committed upon commerce by the subjects of Great 
Britain and other countries. In 1649 it was ordered that 
delegates meet in April, at Salem, " to prepare eleccons 
and what else they think meete, that tend to the welfare of 
the countrye, for the next session," and in 1654, we find an 
order that might be introduced in modern legislation to 
some advantage, '• For the dispatch of business, the depu- 
ties are to eat and especially dine together in the court house 
chamber. Any one of them may be supplied with break- 
fast, dinner and supper, and a cup of wine at each of the 
two latter meals, and beer between them, and bed, for three 
shillings a day, or with a dinner at 18 pence." In 1728, 
the General Court assembled in Salem, by order of Gov. 
Burnet. 

The early records of this town are unusually entertaining, 
and had we room it would be pleasing to show the state of 
society of those times, by quotations from such documents ; 
but one instance of misdemeanor and punishment must 
suffice. In 1662, "the wife of Robert Wilson, for going 
through Salem wilhout any clothes on, as a sign of spiritual 
nakedness, is sentenced to be tied to a cart's tail, uncovered 
to her waist, and be whipped from Mr. Gedway's gate to her 
own house." 

The witchcraft excitement, which arose in 1692, though 
commencing in what is now called Danvers. is closely inter- 



68 



SALEM 



woven with the history of Salem. It commenced in the 
family of Rev. Samuel Paris, in February, 1692, the ac- 
cused being an Indian servant. From this it spread, and 
occasioned the most sorrowful and surprising events ever 
chronicled in the history of a people. The suffering of 
the town was great, its population decreased about one- 
quarter, and the imaginary persecutions of the people 
were terrible. Twenty persons charged with being witches 
were executed upon the hill now known as Gallows Hill ; and 
many more awaiting trial and death within the prison 
wallsj were saved by the mercy of the court, whose 
wisdom rose above the supersliiion. 




RADSTKEET'S EE8IDENCE, 



Salem has the credit of hoisting the first flag of independ- 
ence, and is distinguished for her patriotic zeal during the 
revolutionary war. It is also said that sixty armed vessels, 
manned by four thousand men, were fitted out as privateers. 




:.-af5«5*se-' 






60 SALEM. 

She was early noted for the elegance of her private resi- 
dences, and specimens of architectural neatness were exhib- 
ited by the first settlers. 

The house of Gov. Endicott, built from materials brought 
from Cape Ann, as early as 1628, was, though crude in 
finisti, as will be seen by the cut on the preceding page^ a 
tasteful house for that period. Later, in 1740, the residence 
of Gov. Bradstieet, seen on page 58, shows an improve- 
ment upon'the early style ; and the dwelling of Elias Haskett 
Derby, built in 1799, at a cost of ^80.000, will compare with 
the best of modern times. (See cut on page 61.) 

The city is built upon a peninsula formed by two inlets of 
the sea, called North and South rivers. The eastern part of 
the peninsula is called the Neck. The land upon which it is 
built lies low, and is nearly level, but few places being more 
than 20 feet above high tide. The streets run somewhat irreg- 
ularly. Essex street, the Broadway, runs directly through the 
whole extent of the place; nearly east and west, and contains 
many rich houses, .beside ranges of stores, &c. Chestlfut 
street is considered the handsomest street in the city. It is 
shaded with large elms, and on either side are rows of ele- 
gant mansions. Salem is for the most part well built, large- 
ly of wood, but partly also of brick and stone. Her churches 
and public buildings are rich in design, and generally make 
a very imposing appearance. 

The Common is a beautiful plot of ground eight acres and 
a half in extent, almost perfect^j' level. It is enclosed by a 
neat railing, bordered by a large number of elms and trav- 
ersed by gravel walks. Around are tasty mansions and edi- 
fices. One of the best and most comprehensive views of the 
city may be had from Gallows Hill, The visitor will feel 
amply compensated for a walk to this hill as w^ell on account 
of the commanding prospect, as from the associations con- 



62 



SALEM 



nected with the spot. Harmony Grove Cemetery is worthy 
of notice. "Few if any spots in the vicinity combine greater 
advantages for a binial place, in variety of surface, exuber- 
ant growth of wood, picturesque dells, and shady lawns, than 
this." There are many points of interest around this vicinity 
that would claim the attention of the stranger. 




THE ESSEX HOUSE, 

An old established and first class hotel, where strangers will 
find a pleasant and comfortable home, is situated on Essex 
street, a short distance from the depot. It is kept by Mr. J. 
S. Leavitt, one of the moet popular of landlords, and the 
traveller will find in the house everything to promote his 
pleasure. The stable is well filled with good horses, so that 
the means of enjoyment are _: -^rfect. 



SALEM. 63 

Among the scientilic and literary institutions of the city, 
may be mentioned the East India Marine Society, formed 
in 1770 by those who, acting either as captains or supercar- 
goes, had made one or more voyages abound the Cape of 
Good Hope or Cape Horn. The Museum comprises a highly 
interesting and valuable cabinet of curiosities, collected 
from all parts of the world. ^ The Essex Institute, organized 
in 1848, by the union of the Essex Historical and the Essex 
County Natural History Societies, has a library of about 
8000 volumes and a good cabinet of natural history. The 
Salem Athenaeum, formed in 1810, by the union of the 
Social and Philosophical Libraries, contains 12,500 volumes. 
The press has been liberally supported and the papers have 
always been ably conducted, maintaining a high position. 
The papers now published command an influence equal to 
any issued. By the census of IS.oO it appeared that there 
were in the libraries of this city, 86,645 volumes of books. 
The city is at present the seat of all the county offices, 
which are located in the stone building seen by looking back 
to the left, after we emerge from the tunnel. Most of the 
sessions of the county courts are held in this building. 

Salem has been the scene of more executions than 
any other city in the county. Beside those who suffered 
daring the witchcraft excitement, a considerable number 
have met a similar fate upon her soil. Stephen Clark, the 
young man who was convicted of arson in Newburyport, and 
concerning whom so much sympathy was felt, was executed 
on Winter Island^ in May, 1821, at the early age of 17 years. 
John F. Knapp in September, and Joseph J. Knapp in De- 
cember, 1831, suffered alike punishment in the prison yard, 
for conspiracy with Richard Crowningshield of Danvers, for 
the murder of Capt. Joseph White, one of the most noted 
and wealthy merchants in the city, on the night o'f April 6th, 



64 SALEM. 

1830. One of the Knapps was connected with the old gen- 
tleman by marriage, and expected to possess himself of a 
portion of his property by this means. Crowningshield com- 
mitted suicide in prison. 

The manufacturing interests of the city are now quite 
large. The Naumkeag Steam Cotton Company, incorpor- 
ated in 1831, has added permanent improvements to the 
locality surrounding it, and "is the most successful cotton 
manufactory in the county of Essex. The Salem Laboratory 
Company and the manufactories of copal, lead, machinery, 
&c., are operated with success. In consequence of the. 
large importation of hides from Africa and South America, 
some of the largest tanneries have been established here, 
and it is one of the first leather-producing towns in the 
country. 

The city has very much improved in general appearance 
•within the past twenty years. Numerous houses, and many 
stores and public buildings have been erected. The people 
maintain the reputation so well earned by their fathers, and* 
the old and influential families, whose names are linked 
with the history of our country, are represented by honorable 
and distinguished men, many of whom occupy the old 
homesteads. In 1836 a city charter was obtained, and imder 
this form of government, the twenty-one years have been 
years of prosperity. At present she has a population of 
20,934, embracing as much intelligence,- enterprise and 
real worth as any other city in the union of the same size. 

The harbor contains a number of islands, one of which, 
Lowell Island, has acquired considerable notoriety as a 
watering place. 

Directly after leaving the station, we pass through a tunnel 
under the whole length of Washington Street. This is a 
most perfect and substantial piece of masonry, 1150 feet in 



SALEM 



65 



length. Just at its mouth we have the best view of the 



^^MiiP i I" IllllJil I 




the most costly station house belonging to the company, ft 
is built of granite, shows a fine front, and contains conven- 
iences for the offices of clerks, &c. 

Emerging from the tunnel we notice on our left the 
Depot of the South Reading and Danvers, and the Law- 
rence and Lowell roads, before spoken of. Near the Salem 
Gas Company's Works, a few rods distant, we cross the 
track connected with these roads, running to Phillips' Wharf, 
well equipped with railroad privileges to carry away the 
vast amount of coal landed there. These rails connect the 
harbor with the interior, and convey to the great manufactur- 
ing cities of Lowell, Lawrence and Manchester, almost the 
entire coal they consume. We should be pleased to stop 
here and record a tribute of respect to the enterprising pro- 
jector of these roads, Hon. Stephen C. Phillips, whose sad 
fate spread a gloom through the community, which still 
laments the loss of a man great in every attribute of 
mind and heart, and in every quality that adorns and beauti- 
fies life ; but we fear a parenthetical remark of bo distin- 
guished a man would not do justice to his memory. In 
crossing the North River, the dividing line between Salem 
and Beverly, which is some 1500 feet in width, we have 
5 



66 SALEM. 

the most enchanting views and splendid scenery npon the 
whole route. Look down upon the right hand across Beverly 
bridge, which is nearly parallel with our track, upon the riv- 
er, lighted with the glad sunbeams that sparkle and dance 
upon its waves, as it widens into the bay, showing upon its 
bosom the Great Misery, Baker's Island with its light house, 
and other upheavals of land from the water — with the fish- 
ing craft seeking the wharves in Beverly Cove, the merchant 
ship with its prow towards Salem, or the smoking steamer 
from Boston to the other side of the Atlantic, and yet further 
on, as the waters spread out into the ocean and close upon the 
vision only with the touching heavens. Follow along the 
margin of the stream, where are crov/ded the fishing vessels, 
for next to iVlarblehead, this is the first port in the county for 
cod-fishing, which is the principalbusiness of the town; where 
are the warehouses for the accommodation of coastwise and 
foreign trade — down to the point, where may be seen one of 
{he half dozen whaling ships that Beverly boasts of; and be- 
yond that what appears in the little shaded coves by the bold 
rocks, and along the smooth beaches, but the summer resi- 
dences of the wealthy, opening upon the waters and surroun- 
ded by gardens which are not inferior in themselves or their 
location to the villas and cottages about Newport or on the 
Hudson riverl If this most beautiful sea-view is not enough 
and you would look inland, turn to the left, where North Sa- 
lem reveals the gardens and mansions of her pride and rich- 
es along the water's edge, while above and beyond rises the 
beautiful village of Danvers, with its tall white church spires 
standing boldly against the sky. But be^re we can with- 
draw our unwilling eyes from the scene, we rattle by the 
rocky point, past the few houses and workshops — leaving the 
main street and most of the town of Beverly, (to which the 
greater part of our last paragraph refers,) upon our right, 
and reach the station, at 



67 



BEVERLY, 

18 mile» from Boston, 89 miles from. Portland. 

Passen2-ers for Manchester, Gloucester, and the towns on 
the Cape will step into the cars that pass over the Glou- 
cester Branch, the trains of wliich may be found within 
he depot. Of the branch road we shall speak hereafter. 




E Y ERLY DEr OT 



Beverly, which can be but little seen from the cars is an 
old town, thrifty, substantially prosperous, highly intelligent 
and in good order, temperance and morality, perhaps the 
first in Massachusetts. It is diversified with hills and low- 
lands, well cultivated and productive ; has not only the 
North river upon one side and the ocean washing its beach, 
but is nearly divided by the Bass river, and has some of the 
largest and finest ponds in this section. It is not wonderful 
that discerning men like Johij and William Woodbury, who 
came here in 1630, and Roger Conant and John Balch and 
their companions, the brave and upright fathers of the fami- 



68 BEVERLY, 

lies that bear their names now, and by whom they have 
transmitted their faith, their virtues, their love of freedom, 
and their industrious habits, should have selected this spot. 
At first it was a part of Salem, but in 1656 they built a meet- 
ing house, where Rev. John Hale preached for more than 
thirty years. After the separation from Salem, and in 1668, 
the town was incorporated by the name of Beverly. Mr. 
Conant^ '• the first that had house in Salem,'' asked that it 
should be called Budleigh, the name of the place whence he 
and the first settlers came from England, which he says is 
"a market towne in Devonshire, and neare unto the sea as 
wee are heare in this place, and where myself was borne." 
This petition was not granted. 

The early history of Beverly, like the history of all the 
New England towns, is a history of the church, for that was 
the grand organism in every town ; and we find the church 
here, cherishing the same faith, infected with the same er- 
rors, and following the same customs that obtained else- 
where. In the days of witchcraft, John Hale, the first min- 
ister, was as active in prosecutions as his brethren in Salem ; 
but it happened that his wife was accused of witchcraft, when 
all at once he saw his error, and for self-interest opposed the 
madness of the times. There was one good custom in the 
church at Beverly tliat might be continued with advantage 
now. For more than a century it was the duty of the sexton 
to keep and turn an hour glass near the pulpit, and in view 
of the minister, to guide him in his services. The sermon 
then was expected to be an hour long, and if he fell short 
or exceeded that time, it was a matter for church action. 

A half century ago Beverly was among the large towns, 
having in 1810 a population of 4,608, but the change in trade 
that affected all the seaboard towns, in the first quarter of 
this century, prevented its rapid growth, so that twenty years 
after, its population had actually decreased full a tenth part. 



BEVERLY. 69 

Since 1810 it has steadily advanced, and now numbers 5,934. 
The people are chiefly engaged in fishing, agriculture and 
manufactures of cabinet ware_, rubber goods, and of late 
somewhat extensively employed in the shoe trade. They 
have not had much foreign commerce directly from Beverly, 
but considerable from Salem and Boston, and no town but 
Salem, in Essex county, has furnished so many captains for 
the India ships and the African trade. 

Beverly has various public institutions such as Banks, Insu- 
rance Companies, Charitable societies, &c.: — it has good 
schools, and established the first lyceum in the country. It 
has been the banner town in the temperance reform, and for 
many years the sale of spirituous liquors has been entirely 
suppressed. It has much wealth, more comfort, and no 
crime. 

No town can boast of more patriotism, or of more ready 
sacrifices for the public good. In the Indian wars she fur- 
nished the lamented Capt. Lathrop and many of his men for 
the service. Three weeks before the declaration of Ameri- 
can Independence, she voted in town meeting to support 
such a declaration, if Congress should make it, with lives 
and fortunes. Thus the fires of liberty have always and do 
now burn brightly. It was Nathan Dane, from Beverly, 
that moved in Congress, the celebrated ordinance of 1787, 
that consecrated the great Northwest territory to freedom for- 
evev, and kept the new Northwestern states from the stain of 
slavery. Nathan Dane was in his grave in the later strug- 
gle for free territory, but' in Robert Rantoul, jr., who died 
while a member of Congress in 1852, Beverly furnished a 
worthy successor. He was the greatest of all her children, 
and proud may she be of his memory. The place where 
his ashes rest is hallowed by their touch, and as long as pat- 
riotism shall have a name or freedom a fiiend. it shall be 



70 BEVERLY. 

sacred to freemen. This is not the place to write his biog- 
raphy, but one who combined the industry of Benton with 
the integrity of Calhoun, the varied learning of Adams with 
the stately qlialities of Webster, the honor of Hamilton with 
the eloquence of Everett, can never be forgotten by those 
who are proud of our country's history, and would gratefully 
cherish the memory of her favorite sons, as they pass through 
the town of Beverly. He sleeps in the burying ground close 
by ; the marble is over him, but his best epitaph is in the 
praises of the good and free, and posterity shall do him 
honor. 

There are two considerable hills in Beverly — Brown's 
Hill, from which Salem, Danvers and other towns may be 
seen, and a broad extent of sea coast and ocean viewed ; and 
Cherry Hill; near the station in 



NORTH BEVERLY, 

21 miles from Boston, 8G miles from Portland. 
Upon this hill is a most valuable farm, formerly owned by 
Capt. Joseph White, who was murdered in Salem. It isnow 
the property of R. P. Waters, Esq., who distinguished him- 
self as the first American Consul at Zanzibar." His residence 
is upon the left, and was in view a short distance back on 
our route. Near this depot may be seen Lake Wenham. and 
the ice-houses on its banks. The lake covers a surface of 
three hundred and twenty acres, about half of which is in 
Beverly. It is a beautiful sheet of water, and is much 
resorted to in summer for sailing and lishing, and also fur- 
nishes excellent ice in winter, for domestic uses, and foreign 
exportation. The scenery about this lake is remarkably 
bold, and a place so healthy and beaumul, and so near to 
the great cities^ will before long attract more general atten- 



WENHAM AND HAMILTON. 71 

tion. North Beverly is not a distinct town. Just before we 
reach the VVenham station, up the road to our left, behind 
those tall symmetrical trees, you will notice a small story- 
and-a-half house, located upon the southern side of the road, 
with a similar building directly in front. This was the resi- 
dence of the mother-in-ki\v of J. J. Knapp, and a place of 
resort for Crowninshield while arranging the terms for tije 
murder of White. Passing this point and some very fine 
lands, we come to the station called 



WENHAM AND HAMILTON, 

22 miles from Boston, 85 from Portland, 

Which is situated a short distance over the line dividing 
Wenham and Hamilton. 

VVenham is about six miles long, and at the point crossed 
by the road less than a mile wide. It was originally a part 
of Salem, called Enon. It 1643 it was admitted as an inde- 
pendent town. It was thus described by a traveller in 1686: 
*' Wenham is a delicious paradise; it abounds with rural 
pleasures, and I would chose it above all other towns in 
America to dwell in. The lofty trees on each side of it, are 
a suliicient shelter from the winds, and the warm sun so 
kindly ripens both the fruits and flowers, as if the spring, the 
'summer and the autumn had agreed together to thrust win- 
ter out of doors." There are many lovely groves and charm- 
ing spots in the neighborhood of the depot. The margin 
of the celebrated Wenham Lake, alluded to in Beverly, 
forms a most romantic drive. Several beautiful residences, 
seen from the track, near the ice-houses, occupy a command- 
ing position near the road. It was in this vicinity that the 
first murder in Essex County was committed. The victim 
was followed from a town in Maine, and was supposed to 



72 W E N H A M AND HAMILTON. 

have considerable money. The murderer, however, after 
despatching the m.an, found a silver pistareen his whole stock. 
Upon the old turnpike road near the margin of this lake may 
be seen the small conical hill from which Hugh Peters 
preached his celebrated sermon, the first ever preached in 
this town. 

Though the town contains no compact village, it is still 
advancing in population, and has of late years offered attrac- 
tions for country residences to Boston merchants. The 
populalion has increased from 698, in 1840, to 1073. The 
land is unusually productive, and the farmers scattered over 
the various portions of territory are prosperous and happy. 

Hamilton, a part of Ipswich called Ihe Hamlet, was set off 
as a distinct town in 1793, on petition of 65 males, for reas- 
ons that the church accommodations of Ipswich were not 
within their reach. Like Wenham, it is a farming town, 
pleasantly located, having a rich soil and abounding in well- 
cultivated grounds. There has been very little change in 
population since 1800, when its inhabitants counted 749 ; in 
1850 the census shows 896, a gain, in fifty-six years, of 147. 
It has several fine ponds within its limits, among which is 
Chebacco Pond, the head water of the Chebacco River. 
Quite a number of hills may be seen on either side of the 
track. From the summit of Brown's Hill, approached by 
the road on our right, a beautiful sight expands to view, con- 
sisting of a lovely landscape, enclosed by distant hills, and 
the settlement of Hamilton. Miles river winds along through 
the meadows, on its course from Wenham Lake to Ipswich 
River, and reveals the silvery surface of its water with suffi- 
cient frequency to add a picturesqueness to the scene. The 
The dense woods of Manchester and Essex present a mass 
of forest verdure which excites the admiration ; while away 
to the right can be seen the houses and spires of Marble- 



IPSWICH. 73 

head. Near the foot of this hill have been found evidences 
of its once being a favorite habitation for the Indians. Car- 
riages may be found here, awaiting our order. 

But on we go, through the hills, whose bold surfaces 
are marked only by the dim lines which note their inter- 
mingling, and the stone walls which pass over and about 
them. Occasionally a farmer's residence' snuggles cosily 
under the projecting wing of two sloping sides, which shield 
it from the cold blasts of winter, and cause the delicious 
fragrance of the summer breeze to linger around the open 
door. The w^oods, too, offer their relief to the eye, as if the 
scene would be too monotonous without them ; and here, to 
complete the picture, across our track runs the sluggish 
Ipswich River, with its numerous forks, and its surface 
broken by stump and brush, sweeping lazily down through 
the village in a serpentine course, and farther on the tower- 
ing spires of the village of Ipswich, with the County House 
and Asylum standing at the right, frowning upon us with its 
cold brick walls as if to show us that life has its dark shad- 
ows as well as bright sun-spots. A few revolutions of the 
wheels, and we are at 



IPSWICH, 

27 miles from Boston, 80 from Portland. 

At the foot of the hill is the business part of the town. 
The church and the court house occupy the centre upon 
the granite ledge at the summit, on the left is the hotel, and 
on the right the old Probate office building, and a little 
farther down, the Female Seminary. From the depot up to 
this church is a fine row of dwellings whh good gardens, 
and ornamented yards, and farther on, turning to the left at 



74 IPSWICH. 

the base of those hills seen from the oars, we find as pleas- 
ant a spot as could have been selected by the population 
that has settled down so thickly upon it. Or upon the other 
side of the road, a few rods from the station we can turn to 
the right, passing by the post office and stores, over the 
famous stone bridge which spans the river, and find a 
settlement hid behind a row of giant elms bordering on 
the parade. A.t the right of the court house is the route down 
to the wharves and landings, and near the bank of the river 
stands the House of Cor-ection. The town^ around this im- 
mediate vicinity, is compactly built. An air of comfort and 
thrift characterize it. The early ^' inhabitants possessed 
intelligent minds, virtuous hearts, useful influence and 
respectable character. They well understcocl how the ele- 
ments! of society should be for the promotion of its welfare, 
and how such elements should be foimed and kept pure 
from ignorance and irreligion. They were careful of their 
own example, and thereby gave force to their precepts. 
They provieled and supported schools. They selecletl able 
and pious men for their guides. They attended to these and 
other concerns of society, as persons who felt bound to con- 
sult the benefit of posterity as well as their own immediate 
good." Such was the character of the fathers and to this 
day the record will bear the same evidence. 

Ipswich was the first place in Essex county that bore the 
footprint of a European. In 1611 two men came here, were 
kindly received by the Indians, but did not remain. In 
March, 1633, John Winthrop, jr., a son of the governor, with 
twelve others, commenced a settlement, and in April follow- 
ing, a few others were permitted to become inhabitants. 
Rev. Thomas Parker and about 100 others followed the next 
year, when the name of Agawam was changed to Ipswich. 
The town had a rapid growth for one possessing no comraer- 



ipswi c H . 75 

cial advantages As Smith, the voyager, says, ''This place 
might content a right curious judgment; but there are many 
sands at the entrance of the harbour, and the worst is, it IB 
inbayed too fane from the deepe sea/' This is undoubtedly 
true. Had the harbor of Ipswich been deep and capacious, 
it would probably have been a city. Not possessing this 
advantage, the inhabitants engaged themselves in agricul- 
ture and manufactures ; thus the town became somewhat 
noted as a manufacturing village. Thread and silk lace were 
made here to a great extent. As early as 1796 about 42,000 
yards were turned off annually. The Boston and Ipswich 
Lace Factory was incorporated in 1824, but was discon- 
tinued in 1828. The New England Lace Factory was incor- 
porated in 1827, and ceased operations in 1833. The Cotton 
Factory erected in 1829, on the banks of the river near by, 
on our right, is still successfully operated. The brick build- 
ing directly across the way from the depot, is used as a 
manufactory of knit goods. It is operated by the proprietors. 
The boot and shoe trade is now carried on extensively. 

At one period, there was a considerable trade here, and 
some commerce, and many of the towns that have now a 
good market, sent to Ipswich for their supplies. It was a 
famous stopping place in the days of stages, one of the 
most attractive on the route from Portsmouth to Boston. You 
can scarcely meet a man who then passed over the road, 
that has not -something to say of the '■' good times" passed 
at the old " Agawam." One of the three shire towns in the 
county, where the important terms of the Court were held, 
the seat of the County Treasury and the Probate records, an 
importance was attached to it that made it of general fam^. 
In number of inhabitants it did not come up to some of its 
less important neighbors. In 1820 its population was 2583. 
At present the census shows 3304. 



76 IPSWICH. 

The people of Ipswich once paid a respect to the dead which 
would hardly be tolerated by society now. In reference to 
the burial of Rev. Thomas Cobbett^ Felt's history contains 
the following : " 1685, Nov. 6th. Voted, That some persons 
be appointed to look to the burning of the wine, and the 
heating of the cider against the time appointed for the 
funeral. The expense of the occasion was £17 19s., ex- 
clusive of clothing for the minister's family. Among the 
articles provided were thirty-two gallons of wine, and a large 
quantity of cider, with 104 pounds of sugar, and about four 
dozen of gloves." The funeral charges of a respectable 
man interred here in 1739, exceeded those of Mr. Cobbett, 
as previously stated, as much as ten times. In love affairs 
we find curious regulations. In the Ipswich Court, in Sept. 
1660, " Daniel Blake is fined £5, and respited for £4, con- 
ditionally, for making love to Edmund Burk's daughter 
without her parent's consent." 

During the struggle for independendence, Ipswich exhib- 
ited a lofty patriotism in furnishing men and money. Among 
the most serviceable of her citizens was Nathaniel Wade, 
who died in 1826. He took part in the battle of Bunker 
Hill^ as captain of the " Ipswich Minute INIen," of Long 
Island, of Haerlam and White Plains. He was colonel dur- 
ing the whole campaign in Rhode Island. The following 
letter sent to him may not be uninteresting : 

" Head Quarters, Robinson's House, 25th Sept., 1780. 
" Sir : — General Arnold is gone to the enemy. I just now re- 
ceived a line from him, inclosing one to Mrs. Arnold, dated ou 
board the Vulture, From this circumstance and Col. Lamb's 
being detached on some business, the command of the garrison, for 
the present, devolves on you. I request you will be vigilant as 
possible ; and as the enemy may have it in contemplation to at- 
tempt some enterprise, even to-nig'ht,agaiast these posts, I wish you 
to make, immediately after the receipt of this, the best disposition 



I p ^s w I c H . 77 

you can of your force, so as to have a proportion of men in each 
work on the west side of the river. You will see or hear from me 
to-morrow. * 

" I am, sir, your mo. ob. servt., 

" Geo. Washington." 

[a 1768 Col. W. commanded a regiment against the insur- 
gents under Shays. 

The ecclesiastical history of this town is one full of interest 
and importance. The worthy line of ministers, the most sub- 
stantial and talented among the whole number that cara^ 
over from England, have added to the history of the church 
a lustre which age can never dim. Such names as Parker, 
Ward, Rogers, (a descendant of the martyr,) Cobbett, and 
their worthy successors, form a galaxy of bright stars, not 
eclipsed by any which have shone in the history of any oth- 
er New England towns, 

Ipswich has acquired some reputation as a watering place. 
The beach, some miles from the centre of the town, is an 
attractive and healthy place, and the lower end of Plum Is- 
land, which belongs to the town, is one of the finest resorts 
for water parties in the county. There are few towns better 
suited to the invalid than this. The clear atmosphere and 
general quietness, with the fine drives and walks, are highly 
beneficial to health. 

^'The Devil and Tom Walker,'^ an expression familiar to 
all the residents in this vicinity, had its origin in this town. 
The story runs in this wise. One of the early residents, 
Thomas Walker, with more regard for his temporal than 
spiritual welfare, made an assertion that he would make a 
suit of clothes for the devil, if he could get good pay for 
it. Soon after this, rambling in the woods one day, in Line- 
brook parish, near Topsfield line, he was accosted by an 
individual, who desired a suit, to be completed on a certain 



78 IPSWICH. 

day, and delivered under a large elm tree, which is still 
standing, in the west part of the town, in the vicinity of 
Mile Creek bridge. In measuring the man^ Tom was sur- 
prised to find that material variations from the ordinary rules 
of the craft would be imposed upon him, in order to have a 
good fitting garment. There were marked peculiarities in 
the physical formation of his customer, and, to his great con- 
sternation, the feet were found to be such as popular belief 
accorded to his satanic majesty. With the recollection of his 
assertion, Tom tremblingly completed the measure and the 
bargain, and hastened to the worthy minister for relief 
from his perilous situation. 'J'he minister, whose name we 
will keep a secret, thought over the matter, and finally 
directed him to make the clothes, saving every scrap of 
cloth and thread, and prepare them at the time appointed. 
He must then call upon him, and they would go together. 
Following this advice, when ready, Tom and the minister 
proceeded to the place appointed, the minister with his 
Bible, and Tom with his bundle, and at the instant found the 
strange individual on the spot. The clothes were delivered 
while the minister was at prayer for Tom"*s safety, and the 
money paid. While paying the price, the mysterious per- 
sonage remarked, that were it not for the black coat yonder, 
he should claim Tom for the silk left in his needle. Thus 
the devil was for once cheated in his purpose, and Tom 
learned a valuable lesson. 

Four miles further on, over farm and meadow and swamp, 
we come to the Rowley River. Upon the bridge we have a 
fine view of the sand hills of Plum Island on the right, and 
of the hills on the left, with the spires peeping up from their 
sides. A few rods from the bridge, and we stop at the 
station in 



79 



ROWLEY, 

31 milss from Boston, 76 from Portland, 

Little of which can be seen from the railroad, but it is one of 
the pleasantest towns in Essex county. There is everything 
about it substantial, prosperous and agreeable. In the sum- 
mer season it is hardly possible for one to go over the green 
hillocks and through the quiet intervals, along the road, dust 
laid by the late showers, or by the sparkling brooks, fringed 
with luxuriant grass and flowers, and see the quiet and 
peace that reigns everywhere in this old town — the content- 
ment and prosperity of its stable farmers, and the thrift and 
joyousness of its active mechanics, without wishing that he 
had been born in Rowley; that it had been his lot first to 
have heaid there the lowing of the cattle, and down its hill- 
sides to have tumbled the ripened pumpkins when autumn 
yellowed the leaves. Let the world go. To be born in 
such a place, and in the searness of old age to die- in such 
a place, and to sleep at last in the same dust with the good 
old fathers of olden times, were enough to fill the cup of 
mortal happiness full. 

Rowley was blest at the outset with uncommon settlers. 
The Puritans generally were men of high characters, strong 
wills, well disciplined minds and deep piety. They were 
not thriftless outcasts, that poverty drove from home ; they 
were not greedy adventurers seeking gold, but men tried in 
the struggles for civil and religious freedom, and capable of 
acting well their part in life. And among the besf of these 
appears to have been the Rev. Ezekiel Rogers, the first min- 
ister, and the twenty families that he brought with him from 
England, (whose number afterwards increased to sixty,) to 
form the settlement. The historian says : '' They were 
goodly men and most of them of good estate;" and to this 



B(f ROWLEY. 

day their influence lives_ in that settlement. Their habits 
and character are stamped upon the people, notwithstanding 
Mr. Rogers, had fears that sweeping judgments would fall 
upon them in his time, for the bad tendencies of the young, 
and thought all goodness was to die with the fathers ; for 
'' even the children of the godly," says he, " make a woful 
proof so that I tremble to think what will become of this 
glorious work that we have begun, when the ancients shall 
be gathered unto their fathers ; I fear peace and blessing 
will die with them.'' That was in 1657, nineteen years 
after the first setdement; but Rowley to-day, holds the same 
high character it always did. In some respects^ physically 
too it has very little changed. The roads are now pretty 
much where they were then • and so correct an idea did 
they have of the location, that they have needed but few 
additions, and the main streets yet bear the old names — 
Bradford street, where the Jewetts lived, from the name of 
the town they left in England, and Weathersfield street, 
where Mr. Rogers lived, from the name of the town where 
he was born in 1590, in Essex County, England. 

There is a good story told of one of these Jewetts, a preach- 
er of goodly character. During the violent earthquake that 
happened in this vicinity, the total destruction of the world 
was most confidently anticipated. Hearing the rumbling, 
and expecting every moment that Gabriel would blow his 
trump, he awoke his wife, who had lately purchased a silk 
dress, saying, -'Elizabeth, get up quickly and put on your 
new brocade, for the end of the world has come." He un- 
doubtedly wished her to appear in her best attire. 

The people of Rowley were early noted for enterprise and 
industry. In 1643 the first fulling mill in New England was 
erected by one John Pearson, in the parish still known as 
Byfield parish, and the town exceeded all others, at that pe- 



ROWLEY. 81 

nod, in. the manufacture of cotton. Ship building, as it was 
called in those days, was carried on to a considerable extent 
at the landing, near the depot. Vessels of from thirty to 
ninety tons were built near the homes of the contractors, 
and hauled to the river by oxen. One of ninety tons burthen, 
called the ''Country's Wonder," was. built by Nathaniel 
Perley, upon the Common, and hauled a mile and a half to 
the river. Of late years, quite an extensive shoe trade 
has been carried on, and several of her citizens have acquir- 
ed wealth thereby. The cultivation of fruit was at one time 
quite a business, but other towns have taken the lead. In 
1830 there were 16 tanneries which manufactured about 
S50,000 worth of leather annually. The territorial limits 
have beenmuch reduced by taking from it the towns of Brad- 
ford, Boxford and Georgetown, so that the population has 
decreased from 2,044 in 1830, to 1,214 in 1856. 

Rowley- acquired considerable fame by her efforts made in 
the struggles against the Indians, and during the Revolution- 
ary war. A larger ratio of people volunteered than from 
any of the "neighboring towns, and positions of honor and 
responsibility were held by some of her citizens. 

As before stated, there is nothing in the recent history of 
the town that would be of interest to the general reader. 
The changes have been such as are observed in every place, 
send such as our advance in intelligence and the arts would 
necessarily make in a community. 

Leaving this depot, we ride along to Parker River, upon 
the banks of which the first settlement was made, once the 
avenue for the commerc^of Newbury, and, in early times, 
celebrated for its abundance of fish. This river was once 
noted for its oysters, which were of a large size, (some of 
them measuring more than a foot,) of excellent flavor, and 
found in great abundance for many years after the settlement 
6 



82 ROWLEY . 

of the country. The shells of the Parker River oysters fur- 
nished lime which made mortar, said to be as hard as granite. 
As an illustration of this, when the first house was built on 
Kent's Islai:^!, the chimney was built of clay to the roof, and 
the top of mortar consisting of lime manufactured from the 
shells of those oysters ; when the house had stood more 
than one hundred years, wishing to build a new house, they 
undertook first to tear down the chimney, but with all their 
• efforts they could not loosen a brick ; they went inside and 
raised it from the clay, with levers, when it rolled down the 
roof of a two-story house and fell to the ground without 
starting a brick. It was afterwards used for a goose pen, and 
continued so to be used within the memory of my informant. 
Says the historian : " The first vessels built in Newbury were 
undoubtedly erected on the banks of the river Parker, and 
were designed for the fishery and the coasting trade. At 
that time the channel of the river was much deeper than it 
is now, or vessels of fifty or sixty tons could not pass safely 
up to the doors of the inhabitants." Crossing this river, 
we have a fine view of the celebrated " Old-town" hill, with 
a few scattered farm-houses nestling upon its sides. After 
passing the granite ledge on Kent's Island, still in the pos- 
session of the heirs of Richard Kent, jr., to whom it was 
granted in 1647, by 'Mhe men deputed to order the afifaires 
of the new towne," a fine view opens to the right, in the 
foreground of which stands the old grist-mill, an heir-loom 
from centuries lost in the past, but still laboring with all the 
energy of youth. The neat houses around it belong to the 
proprietor of the mill and the worki#3n. Beyond this point, 
down the river, rise the sand-cliflfe of Plum Island, separated 
from the main land by a narrow channel, much resorted to by 
sportsmen in the Spring and Autumn, for the geese, ducks, 
and various other fowls that gather there on their annual 



NEWBURYPORT. 83 

passage to the north or their relurn to warmer climes. Upon 
the left hand we look up the valloy of the Parker River 
towards Newbury, Byfield, where is Dummer Academy, 
the first incorporated institution of the kind in the state, and 
to this day a school of much celebrity. We are in the town 
of Newbury, in which is no railroad station. The town is 
principally a farming place, the seaport having long since 
been separated for another municipality, and the manufac- 
turing portions now being incorporated into other towns. 
Near the little pond on our left, after crossing the first road 
since we left Kent's Island, is the region known as the 
'' DeviPs Den," in thr^ vicinity of which was the first dis- 
covery of lime-stone in the New England States. 

The city of Newburyport, directly ahead, is not much seen 
by this approach, as it chiefly lies upon land sloping towards 
the river and the ocean on the east. We hurry on bv the 
the brick-yards, through the hills, over the small prairie 
stretching out' under the name of Common Pasture, and by 
the old burying grounds that are close at hand, the sleeping- 
place of more persons than compose the present population 
of the city. Above the high land are seen the spires of the 
churches and the cupolas upon the houses, and just beyond 
us, with its high stone walls and iron picks is the county 
jail. Running through the tunnel and the deep cut beyond, 
we are in the fine and commodious station-house at 



NEWBURYPORT, 

36 miles from Boston, 71 frora Portland. 

A more beautiful place than Newburyport we seldom find. 
Faced by the river Merrimac, surrounded by hills, and 
having back and aroiind it a fine rural country, no better or 
more healthy location can be found in the state. From the 



84 



N E W B U R Y P R T . 



liver we look upon its sidling surface, washed by every 
^i-wer and cleaned by every rain, and can mark evefy 



^1 ,: 



'it 



/5^'!;!':,;,.iilllli 



iii!; 



mty} 
lilt ^/ I 



L^- 



s I 



01 



"m 






ir 



. .. and point cut ev-;y is ...e : or. f;cm the hill behind, 
look down iiHo its bosom, where quietness and peace and 



N E W B U R Y P R T . 8-) 

iiappiness are to a remarkable ciegree within the leach of 
its iiitellii,feni, moral, and industrious inhabitants. One is 
surprised that the first settlers in this neighborhood did not 
select this above all spots, upon which to pitch their tents. 
Hut we forget that man made the town^ — that what it is, is 
the result of tliought, and energy, and labor. In 1635, when 
cm- forefathers, pushing oriward for the advantages of the 
meadows, under the lead of their pastor. Rev. Mr. Pari^er, 
came to the '■ Great River," it v/as the Parker River, not tlie 
Merrimac; and the old tov/n v\'as upon that spot, near tlie 
Parker River bridge. Tiie beauty of the town was not here 
to begin with. The Indians even did not stop here ; they 
stoppeil above and below. Gliding down the river in their 
liglit canoes, they pursued the wdd fowl, pierced the stur- 
geon, and, on the opposite side, sat down at their clam gath- 
eiings, or by their council fires. But where the market now 
stands was a dense alder swamp, which at high water was 
nearly an Island, — the tide coming in near the fcot of Fe- 
deral street, and running up to the spot where the town 
punip now stands. When, therefore, the people became 
numerous, and left the '• old town,'" they went to the north 
end, and in 1654 a ferry was established nearly two miles 
above the market, at Carr's Island. Evidently they couUl 
see no commercial advantages from the location, for the 
street by the water side v/as laid out but two rods Vvdde, while 
elsewhere in town they v\-ere from four to seven rods. The 
centre of the town v/as generally neglected, as is seen from 
the fact that as late as 1700, only two houses were built on 
the banks of the Merrimac below the railroad crossing. 

In 1764, for various reasons, 647 acres, or one square mile 
of the town of Newbury, on which were 2282 of the 4000 
inhabitants, was set oil" and incorporated under ti>e nam.e of 
Newburyport, which has since been increased, in 1851, by 



S6 NEWBURYPORT. 

more tenitory and inhabitants from the original town, upon 
every side of it except the river. The town up to the days 
of the Revolution had a rapid and vigorous growth. Ship 
building became a very important interest, and before the 
separation from Great Britain the ]Merrimac-built ships 
attained, as they have retained, a high reputation. Within 
the memory of living inhabitants, ninety vessels have been 
in process of construction at one time in this town. About 
1770, several rafts of timber, in the form of ships, complete- 
ly solid, with the exception of a small cavity for the accom- 
modation of the sailors, wore constructed in New England 
and sent to London. One of these, built in Newbury, and 
bearing the name of the town, arrived out in 26 days. 

In the early Indian wars and the Revolution the people 
patriotically furnished supplies, troops and officers. A Brit- 
ish ship, loatled with provisions and stores for the British 
army in Boston, was seized in the bay, by seventeen men in 
an open boat. It w^as then noted for furnishing a large 
number of privateersmen, and eventually the loss of these 
men was very heavy on the place. As an instance of the 
patriotism of the people in the struggle for independence, 
we may state that the tlrst privateer fitted out in the United 
States, sailed from this port, in August, 1775, and was owned 
by Nathaniel Tracy, Esq. From that time to 1783, Mr. 
Tracy was the principal owner of 110 merchant vessels, hav- 
ing an aggregate tonnage of 15 660, which with their cargoes 
were valued at $2,733, 3®0. Twenty-three of the above 
ve'ssels were letters-of-marque, and mounted 298 carriage 
,ans, and registered 1,618 men. Of these 110 sail, but 13 
were left at the end of the war, all the rest were taken by 
the enemy or lost. During this same period, Mr. Tracy was 
also the prii'cipal owner of 24 cruising sliips, the combined 
tonnaae of which was 6.330. carryin"' 340 i:iULs. six, nine 



NEWBURYPORT, 8T 

and twelve pounders, and navigated by 2,800 men. Of these 
24 cruisers, only one remained at the close of the war. But 
they had not been idle, nor were they ignobly surrendered. 
These ships captured from the enemy 120 sail, amounting to 
23,360 tons; which, with their cargoes, were sold for ^/irce 
million vine hundred and fifty thoicsand specie dollars; — (S167,- 
219, Mr. Tracy devoted to the army, and other public 
demands;) and with these prizes were taken 2^225 men, 
prisoners of war. In the brigantine Dalton, there were no 
less than 54 citizens, who were taken and thrown into the 
noted Mill Prison, at Plymouth, England. Among them 
was Henry Lunt, who had served as lieutenant under Paul 
Jones, in his desperate fight in the Bon Homme Richard. 
There were 22 vessels, with 1000 men. from Newburyport, 
that never returned from their expeditions, or were ever 
heard of. The war of the elements was-more destructive 
than the war of men. In the war of 1812, however, though 
Newburyport furnished many men, and some distinguished 
officers, among whom was Brigadier General John Boyd, 
the compeer of Brown and Scott, who fought in the Revolu- 
tion, it showed a bad spirit to the administration. 

After the revolutionary struggle Newburyport at once 
engaged in commerce, and the first vessel that displayed 
the American flag in the river Thames was the Count de 
Grasse, Capt. Nicholas Johnson, of Newburyport. The 
first American vesssel fitted out for the Labrador was also 
from Newburyport. In 1781 its shipping was more than 
9000 tons, and it had ten distilleries and sugar houses. In 
1790 the population of the two towns was 8,800, and the 
tonnage of the port was 11,870. S6on after, (1798) came 
on the difficulties with France, when the merchants here 
built by subscription a 20 gun ship, and presented her to 
the government. At that time there was enjoyed a very 



88 NEWBUEYPORT. 

extensive commerce, especially to the West Indies, and a 
fair prospect of great wealth and importance. There was 
not a more prosperous place in the Union ; and shipping in 
1807 had increased to 30,000 tons, three-fourths as large as 
now, and since they were small vessels, returningoften, they 
made a great business. Then came on the embargo, and 
what vessels were not seized, were left to rot at the 
wharves. But a slight affair did not discourage the people, 
and as soon as the storm cleared up they were again at work. 
In 1810 there were bailt on the Merrimac, 21 ships, 13 brigs, 
1 schooner and 7 other vessels, amounting to over 12,000 
tons — the largest amount ever built in any one year. 

This brings us down to the fated day, when Newburyport 
got its ^ never get over' the Great Fire of 1811, that burned 
the heart out of the town, taking 250 buildings, which, 
with other property destroyed, amounted to Si, 500,000. 
This took most of what it had on the land, and the neit 
year war was declared, which, interrupting the commerce 
and fisheries, took what it had on the water. The history of 
Newburyport pretty much slops here. It had a little coun- 
try trade left, but the Middlesex Canal, built just after, turned 
that to Boston, and by furnishing timber to that locality, car- 
ried ship building with it. The results were seen in this, 
tliat the shipping went down in 1816 to 24.691 tons; and in 
1820 to 20,000 tons, but two-thirds of what it was in 1807. 
For ten years onward, to 1830, it dragged out a dying exist- 
ence, till the population had dwindled from 7,634 to 6,741, 
and the valuation had depreciated one half. 

The next movement was in the whale fishery, where it 
run well for a season. In 183d, it had four first class wha- 
lers, valued at $175,000, but this was soon abandoned. 

In 1835, Newburyport had 150 cod and mackerel fisher- 
men, that employed 1350 men, and landed 27,777 barrels of 



N E W B U R Y P R T,. 89 

raackerelj and 20,000 quintals of codfish; it had 32 square- 
rigged freii^hting- vessels, and the four whalemen, and the 
valuation was $3,306,400. 

The next important enterprise, tending to revive the 
town was cotton manufacturing, and the six mills, erected 
within a few years, have a capital of Si, 180,000, employing 
1530 hands, and manufacturing 11,385,000 yards of cloth. 
Ship building has increased since 1843, its lowest point, when 
it amounted to 1,400.89 tons, and varying as follows: in 
1845, 15 vessels, 5,463.53 tons; 1847, 21 vessels, 7,036.74 
tons: 1848, 25 vessels, 8,585.91 tons; 1850, 10 vessels, 
7,656.65 tons. Though the number of ships owned here 
has fallen off the tonnage has increased, but in the fisheries 
it has decreased. In ship building, however, it has been 
second only to Boston in the state, and in fishing, maintained 
the third rank. Besides the changes in business already 
remarked, there have been others worth notice. Tanning 
and preparing leather was once a prominent pursuit. In 
1781, there were in Newbury port and Newbury, 64 tan- 
neries, a part of them in connection with slaughter houses. 
In 1845 they had dwindled to five. Rope making was once 
extensively carried on. So late as 1840, there were six 
rope- walks in Newbury, and one in Newburyport, one of 
them being worked by steam power. The business is now 
entirely abandoned. In 1781 there were ten distill and 
sugar houses ; only one distillery is now left. That the 
vessels built on the Merrimac excel still, as of old, their 
present fame gives ample assurance. Some of the finest 
and fastest ships for the New York packet lines for some 
years past, were built at Newburyport. 

That our readers may have a better idea of the topograph- 
ical appearance of the city, we quote the following descrip- 
tion from Newhall's Register : '' The situation of the town 



90 NEWBURTPORT. 

is indeed uncommonly beautiful. The populous part stands 
upon a slope, gently declining to the river. By whatever 
avenue it is approached, its appearance never fails to im- 
press the inind of the visitor with pleasurable sensations. 
As you approach it upon the eastern road or from the sea, it 
presents the aspect of a considerable city, extendins^ to the 
distance of nearly three miles. The town is laid out with 
an unusual degree of regularity. A lower street, upon 
which the wharves and docks open, follows the course of 
the river, and parallel with this an upper or High street 
extends the whole length of the town. Various avenues 
pass through its centre, and a sufficient number of generally 
wide and spacious streets, at regular intervals intersect these 
at right angles and connect the upper with the lower street. 
A large and convenient market pi ace j which is surrounded 
by brick stores, is in the immediate vicinity of the principal 
wharves and docks. The dwelling houses and other build- 
ings are generally kept in good repair, and present a neat 
and often elegant appearance. Some of the principal 
houses are extremely handsome ; and there are few of any 
condition which do not possess a considerable garden spot, 
which gives a very open and airy aspect to the town, at the 
same time that it promotes that general health for which the 
place has always been highly distinguished. The town is 
well shaded by numerous trees, many of which are of an- 
cient growth and great beauty. As you enter State street 
from the southward, in the summer season, these noble relics 
of another day, which skirt its borders, compose one of the 
most beautiful vistas of green foliage which ever refreshed 
the eye ; and many a returning wanderer, as these rose 
upon his view, has felt his heart glow with warmer love for 
the home of his childhood, and has doubted whether in all 
his wanderings, he has looked upon a scene more fair." 



NEWBURYPORT 



91 





iiiliHIW 



92 N E W B U R Y P R T . 

The avenue known as High street is remarkable for its loca- 
tion, extent and beauty. Many portions of it not only aiford 
an extensive view of die scenery foi ten miles in the sur- 
rounding country, the full extent of the handsomest portion 
of the city, and the numerous private residences, gardens, 
lawns and landscapes, but ii commands a most beautiful 
panoramic view of the coast, from Cape Ann to the Isles 
of Shoals, including Plum Island and the hPcrbor. The loca- 
tion of this street is the atlmiration of strangers from all 
parts of the country. 

Strangers, in visiting this town, will be surprised that it is 
not more generally kiM)vvn as a summer resort, or in fashion- 
able parlance, a watering place. People may talk as they 
will of the pleasures and amusement to be had in distant lo- 
calities, the springs, beaches, riding grounds, fishing, sailing, 
gunning, bathing, hopping, beauliful rural scenery, or water 
views of surpassing loveliness, glorious sun-risings from the 
ocean, or splendid suii-sets behind blue clouds and brown 
hills, but after all they have nothing and can have nothing 
that is not had or could not be enjoyed in this immediate vi- 
cinity ; and one of these days, when some enterprising meii 
shall make suitable preparation and use proper inducements tu 
bring travel here, they will amass fortunes thereby. There 
is not a spot in New England better suited to the pleasure 
and health seeker, than at the Laurel grounds at the north 
part of the city. If springs are wanted, there are the Bart- 
let Springs close by, with as much •' healing in their waters''. 
as though every drop was made precious by recommenda- 
tion. You want drives? There they are up and down the val- 
ley of the Merrimac, as lovely a spot as creation afibrds: or 
down High street to Oldtown Green, for six miles in the 
shade of 1500 elms, where the fresh inland breeze and the 



N E W B U R Y P R T 



93 



view of the oceaa are had all the way. You want boat rides'? 
It is truth of the Merrimac, that 

"No watery glades, through richer ralloys shine, 
Nor drinks the sea a lovelier wave than thine." 

. ||l||||l||i|l|lj|jl!lil|||jj||l!|lill|B^^ 

i'^'"'" slllik 




5:!(li,lf 

You want fishing? The river and the brooks are back of 
you ; the vasty deep before. You want beaches? Salisbury 



94 N E W B U R Y P R T . 

and PJ am fslaiul, Hampton and Boar"s Head are each with- 
in an hoar or two of your door. Vou want retired nooks and 
tangled woods'? On the very spot, and from the Devil's Den 
to the failheimost hill side they can be found.. Tell us of 
the p:aie!y of Newport and Sarato^-a. They woukl all be 
equalled by this locality. We cannot help thinking- that 
some day these things will be, and thousands of persons 
will visit Newburyport for pleasure, where one now goes 
abroad in its pursuit; — that not always will it be true, that 

" What's within our ken, 
Ovvl-hke we blmk at, r.nd direct our search 
To farthest Indies in quest of novelties ; 
"While here at home, upon our very threshold, 
Ten thousand objects hurtle into view, 
Of interest wonderful." 

In 1851, a portion of the territory of NewbuTy, with two- 
thirds of her population and property was annexed to New- 
buryport. Tliis brought up the population of Newburyport 
to 12,866. The same year the town received an act of in- 
corporation as a city, and the government was changed ac- 
cordingly. Present population 13,357. 

The principal public buildings, are the Custom House, a 
large granite structure with an elegant Grecian portico ; the 
Court House occupying the centre of one of the Ihicst par- 
ade grounds in the country, — it is known as the Bartlet Mall, 
and overlooks a beautiful sheet of water, lying in a basin 
thirty feet belcw the surrounding land, the banks of which 
are terraced and ornamented with fences and trees. The 
new City Hall, is a spacious edifice, and fronts on Brown's 
square. The School Houses are very neat and ornamental, 
The Putnam Free School Building and the Female High 
School House, are among the best of their class. The 
Church editices are equal to any in the country. The 
Pleasant street Church is a perfect model of architectural 



N E W B U R Y P R T . 



95 



taste. The Old South Church is an object of great interest, 
the remains of the celebrated Whitiield who died in this 
city, in 1770. being deposited beneath a beautiful cenotaph, 
standing in the east corner of the Church. The Merrimac 
House, formerly known as the old '^ Wolfe Tavern,'' which 




air , j|iir ' w 






i|i(|#^W^&tf^ 



occupies so important a place in the history of this city, is 
now one of the best hotels in the county, having been much 
enlarged and improved. It posseses every quality the trav- 
eller desires, and is superintended by a landlord, (Colonel 



'h 



96 NEWBURY PORT. 

» 
Charles Tuttle,) attentive, gentlemanly and hospitable. It 
is located on the corner of Harris street on State street, in the 
very centre of business. Here are many elegant private 
residences and some extensive gardens. The Woodland 
place, owned by Charles W ills, Esq . is one of the most 
beautiful country seats in the State, and is kept in the very 
best order. 

Newburyport occupies a high position in morality and 
intelligence, maintaining in goodly number all those insti- 
tutions for intellectual progress found in New England com- 
munities. Before we leave this city, we must visit 

PLUM ISLAND. 

This famous resort for pleasure seekers is at the mouth 
of the Merrimac river, about three miles from the depot. 
Carriages run to and fro. twice each day, and boats are con- 
stantly on the way down to the beach. The island is nine 
miles long; the southern portion contains a few dwelling 
houses and farms, but the northern part is entirely composed 
of sand, which is thrown by the wind into hillocks of vari- 
ous heights and forms. ^nd on the easten shore is continually 
the sport of the Atlantic billows, which change its outline 
from year to year. The beach is one of the finest imagin- 
able. Through its whole extent it is steep and precipitous 
under water, so that the great ocean sw^ells break upon it in 
all their majesty, and roll their weight of surging foam up 
the gently rising strand. As far as eye can see, in storm, 
long continuous lines of breakers swell and dash up the 
winding shore, giving the most vivid sense of the everlast- 
ing swaying and washing and heaving of the unrestful sea. 
When the wind blows strongly from the northeast, the waves 
roll in from the wide ocean, with nothing to break their force 
before they plunge upon the beach. An eastern storm on 



ITEWBURYPORT. 9? 

Pium L iand is one of the grandest sights in nature. The 
formatiou of the coast is peculiarly adapted to give height 
and majesty to long swells that come rolling in from far out 
to sea, j.ad break in mighty thunder on the sand. The 
scene i^ wonderfully enlivened by the cross play of the 
breaker^ on the two sand bars, near the bar, that run out 
nearly at right angles with the shore. The swell, striking 
on the ij.rther point of the bar, divides and then swings 
round aivl meeting, spring high into the air and fall in a tur- 
bulent \A angle of surge and foam. The shore is white with 
beaten i . im, torn and rent, and flung about by the wind. 

There is a good hotel on the island, where visitors are 
sure of courteous and hospitable attention. If you want a 
few days of pleasant recreation, there is no better place to find 
it than a; 'lum Island. 

From • le station house at Newburyport we run on by the 
freight a id engine houses, over the street by the river side, 
on to the ■ nidge. This structure was originally a suspension, 
bridge, lue finest in this country. It was purchased by 
the railro I corporation; the towers taken down, and trusses 
introduce! for support in place of the chains, and the track 
laid abo\o the carriage way. The bridge is now considered 
one of tL ■ most substantial and safe along the line From 
this emi , lice we have a novel sight. Right and left we 
overlook the city, taking in, at each point, the entire water 
line of the town. The river, for miles above and below, 
Plum Isl, :id, Salisbury Beach, the bay, and far in the dis- 
tance, thti v)cean, are seen upon the right, while on the left 
the whole s ange of territory to Powow Hill, with its towns 
and villav: 's, is embraced. 

Whitti.-, the Quaker poet, thus speaks of the noble Mer- 
rimac : — 

<* Stream of my fathers ! sweetly still, 
7 



98 „ EASf SALISBtTRt. 

The snnset rays thy valleys fill ; 
Poured slantwise down the long defile, 
"Wave, wood and spire beneath them smile. 
I see the winding Powow fold 
The green hills in its belt of gold, 
And following down its wavy line. 
Its sparkling waters blend with thine. 
There's not a tree upon thy side, 
Nor rock, which the returning tide 
As yet hath left abrupt and stark 
Above thy evening water mark ; 
No calm cove with its rocky hem. 
No isle whose emerald swells begem 
Thy broad, smooth current ; not a sail 
Bowed to the freshening ocean gale ; 
No small boat with its busy oars, 
Nor gray wall sloping to thy shores ; 
Nor farm house with its maple shade. 
Or rigid poplar colonnade, 
But lies distinct and full in sight, 
Beneath the gush of sunset light." 

Passing over the bridge nothing presents itaelf worthy of 
our notice, until we come to 



EAST SALISBURY, 

38 miles from Boston, 69 from Portland. 

The branch road to Amesbury and Salisbury Mills Vil. 
lages runs from this point. This town is one of the oldest 
in Massachusetts, on the north bank of the Merrimac river, 
having been incorporated in 1640. Salisbury and tther towns 
on that side of the river, never seemed rightfully to belong 
to this State. The natural boundary of New Hampshire was 
tlie Merrimac, and the original grant of Sir Ferdinando 
Gorges and Capt. John Mason, was from Merrimac river to 
Sagadahock, now the Kennebeck. But that was a time 
when the geography of the country was little understood, 
for as late as 1634, gome people supposed that New England 



\ 

EAST SALISBURY. 90^ 

was an island formed by the Hudson and what was called 
the "spacious river Canada." However, almost a hundred 
years after, when Salisbury had become a large town, so that 
several sessions of the General Court had been held there, it 
was decided by the Legislatures of the adjoining States, oae 
of them sitting in Salisbury, that the division line should be 
between Hampton and Salisbury. In 1643 a new county 
Was made, which comprehended all the towns between the 
Merrimao and Piscataqua rivers, and was called Norfolk. 
Salisbury was the shire-town. The Church was formed 
two years before the incorporation, in 1638, whose first paStor 
was Rev. Wm. Worcester, from Salisbury in England, and 
thence it derived its name. In 1698 Rev. Caleb Cushing, 
the grandfather of Attorney General Cushing, who was born 
in this town, was settled over this Church. That parish was 
in East Salisbury, which as the original settlement, has since 
been called '' Old town." In early times the meadows were 
an important consideration in a settlement, and probably on 
that account the location was selected. As the town had a 
good soil and commercial advantages, it partook of the 
prosperity of this section of the Merrimac valley, and at- 
tained a position equal to that of its neighbors. Some 
of the most important pursuits that once gave it rank and 
wealth, such as ship-building, foreign commerce, and the 
fisheries, it has almost entirely abandoned and though it has 
%turned to other business so as not absolutely to fall back, still 
it has allowed other towns to go far ahead of it. There are 
three villages in the township, East Salisbury, around this 
/station, and the Point and Mills Village, which we shall 
speak of when we return to our trip upon the branch road 
runnmg to Amesbury. 

This section of the town is principally agricultural, and 
though the land is not so fertile as much of the soil beyond, 



100 EAST SALISBURY, 

yet industry and good management have made the people 
prosperous and happy. Quite a number of distmguished 
men sprung from this town. 

Salisbury beach, on the sea shore, is several miles in 
length. It IS composed of yellow sand and beside a curios- 
ity to visitors, is one of the great resorts for watering parties. 
A commodious house has recently been erected upon the 
beach by Mr. Alfred Titconab, and every inducement is 



ATLANTIC HOUSJ 



held out for pleasure parties and for boarders. There is an 
uninterrupted sea and coast view, of thirty miles in extent, 
obtained from this house and the facilities for bathing are 
unequalled, Mr. T. is one of the best of landlords, and his 
house possesses all the comforts sought for. Coaches may^ 
be found at the station. The ride to the house is very pleas^ 
ant. 

Leaving the Salisbury station we pass along through an 
unattractive country, mostly hid from us by woods. About 
one mile from the depot we leave Massachusetts and cross 
the New Hampshire line. The next three miles is quickly 
made, when the voice of the conductor informs us we are at 



101 



SEABROOK, 

42 miles from Boston, 65 miles from Portland. 

This town was settled as early as 1638, but was not incor. 
porated until 1768. The early settlers were mostly from 
Massachusetts, and the southerly portion of the town was for- 
merly included within the limits of that State. It was at 
one time the residence of Meshech Weare, President of 
the New Hampshire Assembly. '' The west part of tha 
town is undulating. The middle and eastern portions are 
comparatively level. The soil is light and productive. 
Extensive tracts are covered with a heavy and valuable 
growth of timber and wood. There are also large plains 
of salt marsh. Cam's Brook, rising in Salisbury, passes 
through the southeast part of the town, and affords a few 
water privileges of moderate power, which are occupied by 
saw and grist mills. Several small streams rising in this 
and adjacent towns, and uniting in the broad marsh along the 
eastern border, forms Seabrook river, which in its course to- 
wards the ocean, unites with Hampton river." Many of the 
rivulets abound with bog ore of iron. The town derived 
its name from the number of rivers and rivulets which 
meander through it. 

Seabrook is mostly an agricultural town, though a portion 
of the inhabitants are engaged in seafaring pursuits, and a 
few in boat building. The farms about here are better than 
those in Salisbury. There is an Academy here, erected in 
1853, by the munificence of Dr. Edward Dearborn, who left 
a legacy of $15,000 for its endowment. A society of Friends 
was formed as early as 1701. The early settlers suffered 
considerably from the depredations of the Indians, who were 
numerously located in this section. Edward GovCj a citizen 
of this town, for his opposition to the British government^ in 



102 HAMPTON FALLS. 

1683, was convicted of high treason and confined in the 
Tower of London, for three years. The order for his pardon 
is still preserved, and reads as follows : — 

"James R. Where as Edward Gove was neare three years 
since apprehended, tryed and condemned for High Treason in our 
Colony of New England, in America, a,nd in June 1683 was com- 
mitted prisoner to the Tower of London, we have thought fit to 
eignify our will and pleasure to you, that you cause him, the said 
Edward Gove, to be inserted in the next general Pardon that shall 
come out for the poor convicts of Newgate, without any condition 
of transportation, he giving such security for his good behavior as 
you will think requisite. And for so doing this shall be your War- 
rant. Given at our Court at Windsor the 14th day of September 
1685, in the first year of our reign. 

*' By his Maj , his command, 

Sunderland." 

There are two fine hills in this town from which exten- 
site and beautiful prospects of the surrounding country may 
be had. The beach is a favorite resort in the summer sea- 
son, though upon the portion within the corporate limits there 
is no public house. We have, in passing through, perhaps 
the most comprehensive view of the settlement, which 
though but slowly advancing in population or business, is by 
no means lacking in industry or wealth. The population at 
the last census was 1393. 

From Seabrook on we run through forest and over field, by 
fstrm house and cottage, to 



HAMPTON FALLS, 

44 miles from Boston, 63 from Portland. 

The village lays at our left, some distance from the station. 
It was formerly a part of Hampton, and the history of that 
town up to its separation includes all the territory embraced 
within the limits of this and some other corporations. In 1712 
it received an act of incorporation, and the same year, the Rev, 



HAMPTON. 103 

Theophilus Cotton, the first minister, was ordained. The 
inhabitants number about 650, and are mostly engaged in 
agriculture. The village contains a good Academy ; its 
early reputation brought to it considerable distinction, and 
eyen now, in the multiplicity of seminaries, it maintains a 
good reputation. There are three churches in the town, aad 
a fair supply of school houses. The thickly settled portion 
is very pleasantly located on a gentle rise of land, surround- 
e<.l by rural scenes and delightful views. 

Time will not allow us to stop here, so away we go, over 
these extensive meadows, stretching out miles in extent to 
the ocean beach, as level as a perfect plane, resembling 
somewhat the huge prairies of the West. The view is a 
pleasant one, — Boar's Head, with its jutting cliff and spacious 
hotels, and the blue water of the ocean relieving the monot- 
ony of the table land. Two miles bring us to 

HAMPTON, 

46 miles from Boston, 61 from Portland, 

This is one of the oldest and most interesting settlements 
in New Hampshire — at one time embracing Hampton 
Falls, North Hampton, Kensington and Seabrook. In 1638, 
the Massachusetts Colony empowered Richard Dummer 
and John Spencer to commence improvements, and to build 
houses at Hampton, then called by the Indians, TVinnicum- 
met. These hardy pioneers, who were found in the early 
history of other towns, laboring for the advancement of the 
Colony, were attracted hither by the value of the great 
meadows over which we rode on our way from Hampton 
Falls. Soon after this some persons from Norfolk county, 
England, had leave to- settle here, and their numbers wer» 
rapidly increased, until a considerable community, for those 



104 HAMPTON. 

days, was formed. From its infancy down through a lottg 
series of years the locality appeared to be a marked placQ 
for Indian depredations. In 1703, they suffered a surprise 
from a number of a hostile tribe, which resulted in the death 
of five of the inhabitants, among whom was the celebrated 
Quaker preacher;, " Widow Muzzey." 

This town was considered a part of the Massachusetts 
Colony up to 1677, when it was decided that Massachusetts 
had no right of jurisdiction over New Hampshire ; and ac- 
cordingly Hampton, Portsmouth, Dover and Exeter wete 
brought under the control of the latter state, which, in 1679, 
was commissioned as a royal province, and the government 
administered by a President and Council, appointed by the 
King. Prior to this, there was no general government in 
this state, to which the settlers could appeal for protection. 
They formed an independent system by themselves, and 
made laws based upon the bible. They had one Chief Mag- 
istrate and two Assistants, chosen in an Assembly of the 
people, and holding office one year. These officers were 
sworn to the faithful discharge of their duty, and the people 
pledged themselves by oath to obey and zealously labor as 
directed. This was an early example of pure democratic 
government in this countr3^ The laws were enacted in 
Assembly, and had reference to many things outside of ordi- 
nary legislation. The drinking of healths and the use of 
tobacco were forbidden. The intercourse between the sexes 
and the advances towards matrimony were regulated. The 
people had a ceremony of betrothing which preceded that of 
marriage. Pride and levity were frowned upon. Women 
were forbidden to expose their arms or bosoms to view. 
Their sleeves must reach to the wrist, and their dresses fit 
high upon the neck. Men must keep their hair cut short, 
and no person worth less than £200 was allowed to wear 
gold or silver lace, or silk hoods and scarfs. 



HAMPTON. 105 

This town had the honor of bemg the residence of Mesh- 
ech Weare, and a monument erected within a few years by 
the citizens of the town, marks the spot where his remains 
were buried. Several important sessions of the General 
Court were held here. The Board of Commissioners to fix 
the line between New Hampshire and Massachusetts met 
here in 1737. Thomas Webster, the remotest ancestor of 
Daniel Webster in America, settled at Hampton, in 1636. 

The town is pleasantly situated on our right, near the track. 
It has an Academy, which sustains a very good reputation, 
and the churches and schools maintain a high character. 
Previous to the Revolution, and for many years, until after 
timber in the vicinity became scarce, one or more brigs or 
ships, from 150 to 350 tons burthen, were annually built, and 
several vessels from here were engaged in the West India 
trade. The surface of the land is generally level, gradually- 
descending towards the sea. The soil is excellent, well 
adapted to tillage and mowing; but there is not pasturage 
sufficient for grazing to any extent. The population, 1197, 
is mostly engaged in agriculture. 

Within sight of the depot, on the right, stands a quaint 
gamble-roofed house, the former residence of General M., 
a Revolutionary hero and patriot, for whom Washington eXi- 
tertained such respect that when he passed the house on his 
Northern tour, he reverently uncovered his head, in homag'e 
of the memory of his companion in arms, who had fought 
out the battle of life and received his discharge before him. 
This General was regarded as a strange man by the neigh- 
borhood, which believed him in league with the Devil, who, 
they affirmed, visited him occasionally in the shape of a 
small man in a leathern dress. The General's house was 
once burned, in revenge, as it is said, by the fiend, whom 
the former had outwitted. He bad agreed, it seems, to fur- 



106 HAMPTON. 

nish the General with a boot-full of gold and silver, poured 
aanually down the chimney. The shrewd Yankee cut off, 
on. one occasion, the foot of the boot, and the Devil kept 
pouring down the coin from the chimney's lop, in a vain at- 
tempt to fill it, until the room was literally packed with the 
precious metal. When the General died, he was laid out, 
and put in a coffin, as usual ; but, on the day of the funeral, 
it was whispered about that his body was missing ; and the 
neighbors came to the charitable conclusion that the enemy 
had got his own at last. He married a very beautiful and 
accomplished woman, who died but a few years after her 
marriage, in consequence, as it was reported by the same 
reliable neighbors, of his cold heartedness and arbitrary 
treatment. He soon after married a young girl, to whom he 
presented all the jewelry and ornaments of his first compait 
ion. She refired on the wedding night, wearing the costly 
diamond rings and bracelets which had been worn by her 
whose head had reclined, but a short time before, on the same 
bosom where she now pillowed her own. In the middle of tlie 
night she was awakened by feeling the icy cold hand of the 
first wife grasp her own, who unclasped the bracelets from 
her wrist and drew the rings from her fingers, telling her not 
to fear, but to give the dead her own. The dead wife hav- 
ing recovered her early tokens, left her to the enjoyment of 
that love which should have been hers alone. Whittier has 
rendered the legend immortal, in a poem entitled — '' The 
New Wife and Old," from which we extract the following 
verses : — 

" Ha !— that start of horror !— Why 

That wild stare and wilder cry 1 

Full of terror, full of pain ! 

Is there madness in her brain 1 

Hark ! that gasping, hoarse and low : 
" Spare me— spare me — let me go !" 



NORTH HAMPTON. 107 

God hare mercy ! Icy cold 
Spectral hands her own enfold, 
Drawing silently from them 
Love's fiair gifts of gold and gem, 
" Waken ! save me !" Still as death 
At her side he slimibereth. 

Eing and bracelet all are gone, 
And that ice-cold hand withdrawn ; 
But she hears a murmur low, 
Full of sweetness, full of woe, 
Half a sigh and half a moan : 
*' Fear not ! give the dead her own !" 

Ah ! the dead wife's voice she knows ! 
That cold hand whose pressure froze. 
Once in warmest life had borne 
Gem and band her own hath worn. 
" Wake thee ! wake thee !" Lo, his eyes 
Open with a dull surprise. 

Hampton Beach has long been a celebrated resort for in- 
valids and seekers of pleasure. It lies a few miles from the 
station, on our right. Adjoining this beach is 

Boa^r's Head, an abrupt eminence, of singular shape, 
which extends into the sea, and divides the two beaches of 
Hampton. Coaches may be found at this station for either 
place. 

The next three miles is through a pleasant country, diversi- 
fied by wood and lawn, field and orchard. It brings us to 



NORTH HAMPTON, 

49 mile* from Boston, 58 miles from Portland, 

A town formerly known as North Hill Parish, and belong- 
ing to Hampton. The history of the place is included in that 
of the parent town. It was once the seat of the garrisonp, 
built for protection against the depredations of the Indians. 
It has a few small mills upon Little river, and the people, 



108 GKEENLAND. 

like those in the old town and at the Falls, are industrious and 
thrifty. It has a population of 822, and possesses all the at* 
tractions of a quiet farming village. Bordering upon the 
ocean, a portion of the beach comes within her territorial 
limits. Two miles further on we come to 



GREENLAND, 

51 miles from Boston, 56 from Portland. 

The road passes through the most uninviting part of the 
tOAvn — Cedar Swamp and the meadow. The main portion 
lays upon the road from Portsmouth to Exeter, nearly a mile 
on our left. It is one of the most beautiful townships in New 
England, — the soil fertile and well cultivated. One farm 
alone, in 1855, produced 2,000 barrels of apples. The farm- 
ers are generally intelligent and rem.arkably prosperous. 
The town was first known as the parish of Greenland, and 
no record exists of its being set off from Portsmouth. All we 
know is obtained from the Portsmouth records of 1705. which 
say that '^ on the 4th of June the town voted, that the inhab- 
itants of Greenland, in consideration of their numbers, dis- 
tance they had to travel, and danger of passing to public 
worship, be paid out of the town stock their proportion of 
£100 a year, raised for the support of the minister, during 
the maintainance of an able minister and no longer. The 
bounds of Greenland were fixed at the south side of Colonel 
Packer's farm." That year there w^ere 320 inhabitants. 
The first settlements were made on the bay side, and for 
some time the only communication was up the Piscataqua 
and through Greenland bay. 

The first object which claims our attention on entering the 
town is the high hill on the right, as the cars emerge from 
the woods. On the top a cluster of lofty pines have long 



GREENLAND. 109 

escaped the woodman's axe, and withstood the storm wmds 
from oir ihe sea, to serve as a landmark to the mariner ap- 
proachiug a rock-bound coast. The hill is remarkable for a 
surprise of a party of Indians, during the first Indian trou- 
bles. They had passed up the river, by the town, in the night 
landed and made an attack on some houses on the Plains^ 
about half a mile distant. These they set on fire, killing two 
or three of the inmates. They were pursued by the inhabit 
lants, and overtaken at breakfast, on this hill, since which 
time it has borne the name of "Breakfast Hill." 

The geological formation of the town is peculiar. Five 
miles from the sea, on a high ridge of land, sea shells and 
pebbles are found at the depth of forty or fifty feet below 
the surface. In another place, one-eighth of a mile from the 
Winnicul river, near the head of tide water, river mud, 
leaves, &c., were found lifteen feet before the surface ; on a 
ridge of clay and gravel formation, river mud was found at 
a depth of forty feet, and distant three-quarters of a mile 
from the former place, showing conclusively the recent up- 
heaval of the land. 

RYE BEACH. 

A ride of four miles from this station, through the town of 
Rye, one of the most attractive farming villages to be found, 
over a road broken and diversified by farm and forest scenes, 
and we come to the green headlands jutting into the ocean, 
and the fine white beach backed by hills and the deep green 
woods. This is Rye Beach, the famous watering place, es- 
teemed throughout the States as the most delightful locality 
on the coast. On the right, just at the head of the beach, is 
the '•' Surf House," and a few steps further on the left, is the 
celebrated " Ocean House," both of which are fine speci- 
mens of watering-place architecture, though substantially 



110 



GREENLAND 



built and richly furnished. The Ocean House commands 
an uninterrupted view of the ocean, is surrounded by gar- 
den, grove and lawn, and is every way adapted to the com- 
fort of visitors. Job Jenness, Esq., the proprietor, has a 
reputation as a landlord which speaks volumes for himself 
and his charge. Everything which can conduce to make a 
visit agreeable will be furnished, and no one can leave the 
house without a desire to return. 




OOBAK BOUSS. 



This spot is by no means void of historical or traditionary 
interest. If you want tradition you will be informed that 
years ago, 'Mhree long, solemn-looking men, with hair 
hanging down around their lank visages like pounds of can- 
dles," dug for money upon this beach, under the direction 
of a muffled Pythoness, whose mystical incantations cheered 
in the work, wearying alike the souls and bodies of her com- 
panions with hope deferred and hard delving; ''and how 
Elder P. a goodly christian " prayed for light, and how the 
citizens of Rye were in a ferment of excitement to learn the 
secret which impelled the spirits in their mysterious labor; 
— or if fact is more pleasing, you will be told that off this 



PORTSMOtTTH. Ill 

shore has been discovered the remains of a dense forest, 
stump and fallen trunk, imbedded in the mad, showing that 
the land here has suffered a depression, and that the ocean 
has greatly encroached upon its former bounds, or many 
other things which may be treasured up in the memory, to 
be conned over at the winter evening's fireside. 

Returning to Greenland we start again on our journey. 
From this station for miles ahead the scenery is monotonous, 
and we whiz along occupied by what is transpiring in our 
little oblong world, tliat moves so rapidly in its course, and 
perhaps unmindful of much that should interest us from 
without. But we pray the traveller not to let the political 
discussion among his masculine friends, nor the chit chat 
with his lady companions, nor yet the newspapers contain- 
ing the fullest account of the railroad tragedy, or the new 
book fresh and damp from the press, detract his attention 
from the scenes without, as we pass the fine fields, and 
gardens, — the buildings on our left over the old mill pond, 
and the factory on our right, and enter the station house at 



POETSMOUTH, 

56 miles from Boston, 51 miles from Portland. 

This is the principal seaport in IS'ew Hampshire, and the 
the only one which it contains. It is built on a beautiful 
peninsula on the south side of the Piscataqua river, three 
miles from the ocean. The peninsula is formed by the 
north and south mill ponds, and connected with the main 
land by a narrow isthmus on the northwest, and by bridges 
at the outlets of the two mill ponds. It is about six miles 
long and three wide. The population has extended far be- 
yond the peninsular into the country. The surface is un- 
even, but the hills are not high. The most elevated land is 



112 PORTSMOUTH. 

on the south road ; on the highest part of which, there for- 
merl}- grew seven lofly pines, which were noted land marks 
for seamen, and the hill took tlie name of "The seven 
pines," wliich it retained after they were all cut down. As 
seen from an eminence, the harbor, points, islands and adja- 
cent country presents a delightful assemblage of objects. 
Its location is pleasant and healthy — the land sloping by a 
gentle declivity towards the ocean. In the central part of 
the city the streets are generally irregular and many of them 
narrow. They seem to have been laid out by the owners of 
the land for their own accommodation, without regard to pub- 
lic convenience or ornament. The buildings are chielly 
of brick and of a style somewhat antiquated. Before the 
commencement of the present century there were but four 
brick dwelling houses in the town; the rest were of wood 
and contiguous to each other. But few were so isolated as 
not to be in danger from fire. After a great portion of the 
town had been destroyed, an act of the Legislature was 
passed, aiithorizing the Selectmen to widen the street*, and 
prohibiting the erection of wooden buildings of more than 
twelve feet in height. Most of the buildings erected since 
have been of brick, and of late years numbers of spacious 
and handsome stores and lasty and ornamental private resi- 
dences have been erecten in various parts of the city. 

The city is supplied with water of an excellent quality, 
brought by an aqueduct from a fountain three miles distant, 
and carried through all the principal streets. 

The city is remarkable for its commodious harbor, 
which is so enclosed as to be safe from every storm, and 
affords good anchorage. It contains forty feet ot water, in 
the channel, at low water, and is protected by islands and 
headlands from storms. The river opposite the city is three 
fourths of a mile wide ; its current is more than five miles 



PORTSMOUTH. 113 

per hour; its depth at low water, seventy feet. The tide 
rises here ten feet, and is so rapid as to keep the harbor free 
from ice, as well as the river for several miles above the 
town. Its great breadth and delightful bank, in connection 
wiih all its other advantages, render it one of the best har- 
bors in the countr3^ 

Portsmouth was one of the earliest discovered and first 
settled places in New England. In the beginning of the 
17th century, some merchants of Bristol, England, having 
formed a private company for the exploration of this coui&' 
try, employed for that service, Capt. Martin Pring, of Bristol, 
a skilful navigator and much praised by Gorges. They 
placed under his command two vessels, and in 1603 he set 
sail and after a prosperous voyage, entered the Piscataqua 
river, and explored it foi' three or four leagues. He landed 
on the shore, in search of sassafras, then esteemed in phar- 
macy as a sovereign remedy. The cityiof Portsmouth there^ 
fore, justly boasts of her antiquity of two hundred and fifty- 
four years, and of being the first soil in New Hampshire 
that was touched by the feet of Englishmen. In 1614, 
Smith, the navigator, examined and extolled the waters of 
the river. In 1623 the company of Lacohia, in England, 
consisting of Gorges and Mason, and many eminent, noble 
and enterprising merchants of London and other cities, 
selected some choice persons and sent them to establish a 
plantation on this river. They came here for trade and 
commerce; were high-minded men, and had enlarged views 
of government, religion and religious toleration. They were 
not of the Puritan party, for Gorges and Mason had not the 
same religious views with the INIassachusetts planters. John 
Mason, the London merchant, member of the Plymouth 
company for the planting, ruling and governing of New 
England, and first Governor of this province^ advanced a 
8 



114 PORTSMOUTH. 

large sura of money for the welfare of this place, and may 
be said to have laid the foundation of its commercial pros- 
perity. David Tonson, a Scotchman, who seems to have 
been prominent among the planters who first settled in this 
town, built a house at Odiorne's Point, a few rods north of 
the present evident remains of an ancient fort. It was built 
the very year of his arrival here, was the first house which 
was erected on this plantation, and was afterwards called 
Mason-Hall. It was not till about eight years afterward that 
Humphrey Chadhourne built the Great House, which was 
situated on the bank of the river, at the corner of Court and 
Water streets. 

In 1631 the soil in the vicinity of Portsmouth was conveyed 
to the original planters or to those at whose expense the 
plantations had been made. The original limits of Ports- 
mouth included the present towns of Portsmouth, Newcastle, 
Rye, and a part of Newington and Greenland. A favorable 
impulse was in 1631 given to the Colony, and houses began 
to be built upon the "■ Strawberry Bank" of the Piscataqua, 
as the site of the present city was called. The first house 
erected in the compact part of the town was built by Hum- 
phrey Chadbourne near the corner of Water and Court 
streets. In 1644 there were about a thousand acres of land 
attached to it, consisting of marsh, meadow, planting and 
pasture ground, and mostly under improvement. 

In 1641, Portsmouth, with Kittery, Dover and Exeter, 
was an independent republic. In that year Portsmouth and 
Dover placed themselves under the jurisdiction of Massachu- 
aetts. They were to be ruled by the laws of Massachusetts, 
and subject to pay in church and commonwealth as the in- 
habitants of that Colony. This connection with Massachife 
•etts continued until 1679, when New Hampshire was formed 



PORTSMOUTH. 115 

into a separate Province to be governed by a President and a 
Council appointed by the King. 

On the 28lh of May, 1653, this plantation, " which was 
accidentally called Strawberry Bank, by reason of a bank 
where strawberries were found,'' was allowed by the Gen- 
eral Court at Boston, on the petition of Brian Pendleton and 
others, to be called Portsmouth, " as being a name most suit- 
able for this place, it being the river's mouth, and good as 
any in the land.'' It was also the name of the English city 
in which John Mason was born. The number of families 
then was between fifty and sixty. •' The line of the town- 
ship was ordered to reach from the sea by IJampton line to 
VVynnacot river." 'i he planters were so industrious and suc- 
cessful, as to be able to send corn to the early sufferers at 
Plymouth. 

Portsmouth continued for many years the place of resi- 
dence of the royal Governors, and the King's Council. Its 
political importance, the wealth of many of its inhabhants, 
the general activity of the town, and the refined tone of its 
society, gave this town at an early period a permanent place 
among the principal towns of New England. 

While the neighboring country suffered severely from the 
ravages of the Indians, Portsmouth almost wholly escaped, 
it being secured on three sides by water, and being acces- 
sible only by a narrow isthmus, across which a stockade was 
thrown. This town sympathized cordially with the patriotic 
spirit of the Revolution, 

The United States Navy Yard, is situated in the harbor of 
Portsmouth, on an island called Continental or Badger's 
Island, on the East side of the river. Here is every conve- 
nience for the construction and repair of vessels of the larg- 
est class, among which are a dry dock of costly construc- 
tion, and three immense ship houses, the largest of which is 



116 PORTSMOUTH. 

240 feet long and 131 feet wide, having the roof covered 
with 130 tons of slate. Near this island are about a dozen 
others of various sizes adding much to the beauty of the 
water scenery, as viewed from prominent points. Four 
Forts, known as Constitution, M" Clary, Sullivan and Wash- 
ington, protect the harbor from the encroachments of an 
enemy. 

This place has always been noted for its enterprise and 
commercial spirit, and is the immediate centre of a consid- 
erable trade. Its commerce is smaller now than in formei 
years. A very large number of vessels are owned at this 
port, which are constantly employed in the freighting and 
fishing business. The consequence of this is that mucJi 
of the capital is employed abroad ; and there is but littla 
show of business in the streets compared with the amount of 
commerce, in the profits of which it is interested. 

In relation to »hip-building, this city is entitled to the high- 
est praise. The first ship of war ever built on this side of 
the Atlantic; the first line of battle ship which was built by 
our government_, and the Congress, the largest and best frig^ 
ate now in the navy, were built here. Nineteen of our nar 
tional vessels have been built here. It is distmguished, too, 
for the number, speed, beauty and size of the merchant ves- 
sels, which have been constructed in this place. Between 
the year 1800 and 1850, no less than 486 vessels have been 
built in this harbor; and 218 of them were ships. Their 
tonnage amounted to 126,000 tons, 

IManufacturing is extensively carried on in this city. 
Among the most important corporations is the Portsmouth 
Steam Factory, giving employment to about 400 hands, who 
produce 3,000,000 yards of the finest quality of lawns annu- 
ally ; and the Sagamore Manufacturing Company. The 
leading articles of manufacture are cordage, spool cotton, 



PORTSMOUTH. 117 

hosiery, iron castings, shoes, &c. Portsmouth has a large 
amount of capital invested in railroads, manufacturing, &c. , 
in other places; and though it has suffered in former years? 
by disastrous fires, and been compelled to relinquish to other 
cities, some of its former extensive trade, still it has steadily 
increased in wealth and population. lu 1850 it was incor- 
porated as a city, with a population of nearly 10,000 which 
has increased since that period to rising 11,000. 

Portsmouth has been distinguished for men of patriotism. 
Here lived William Vaughaii, who claimed to be the projec- 
tor of the siege to Louisburg under Pepperell ; Dr. Cutter, 
who was a surgeon in that expedition; Col. Meserve, who 
was one of its mightiest spirits ; Maj. Hal«, who was an offi- 
cer in one of the regiments ; and the Rev. Samuel Langdon, 
who was then a chaplain of the New Hampshire forces. 
Gen. Whipple, who resided here for the largest portion of 
his life, was one of the signers of the Declaration of Inde* 
pendence. Gov. Langdon was always a devoted friend to 
his country, went to Bennington, as a volunteer in the army 
after the capture of Cornwallis, and was at Rhode Island 
with a detachment, while the British troops were there sta. 
tioned ; he, with Gen. Sullivan, seized, at the fort in the 
mouth of the harbor, one hundred barrels of gunpowder, 
and so promptly conveyed them to Bunker Hill, that they did 
service on the memorable seventeeth of June. He had the 
honor of^presiding in the Senate when Gen. Washington was 
elected President of the United States, and had the supreme 
honor of announcing that election to Congress. He, with 
John Pickering and Pierce Long, was a delegate to the con- 
vention for the adoption of the federal constitution, and mosi 
thoroughly supported it. He long commanded a regiment in 
the Revolutionary war, and was a member of the old Con- 
gress. We might mention many others, who have contended 



118 



PORTSMOUTH 



valiantly for our country. In literature, in law, in the church 
the most eminent names are exhibited. 

The literary advantages of Portsmouth are highly respect* 
able, and the history of the churches is one of progress and 




OLD NOKTH CHUKO 



importance. The oldest newspaper in the country is pub- 
lished here. From the earliest periods, in education, in the 
means of intellectual advancement, and in religious influen- 



FOE T SMOUTH 



lis 



ces,no1town m the country has shown a more commend, 
able zeal. 



On another page we gave a view 



of the old North Church. 




'K 



NEW NOKTS OHTJRCH, 



L-ected in IT 12 and torn down in 1854, to gi 



ve room for the 



new edifice built in 1855, one 



of the finest specimens ©f 



120 



PORTSMOUTH. 



church architecture in the State. We also exhibit the Han- 




over street Chapel, a private eniinpii.-t) built unci owned by 
John M. Lord, for his own Sabbalh {School. 



PORTSMOUTH. 121 

Among the Hotels in Portsmouth, the City Hotel, kepi by- 
William fi. Iladley, and the FiANKLiN House, kept by Wil- 
lis Barnaby, will be found by travellers to possess all the 
pleasant features of a " New England Home." The pro- 
prietors are of that class who take pleasure in surrounding 
guests with comfort, and of making everything agreeable. 

Take Portsmouth all in all — its healthy and beautiful situ- 
ation, its fine harbor, its proximity to the pebbly beaches 
and the delightful surrounding country, the cleanliness of its 
streets, the beauty of its houses, its ornamental trees and 
gardens that adorn it in every direction, the wealth of its in- 
habitants, its charitable and enlightening associations, its va- 
rious means of intelligence, and as a necessary result, the 
many illustrious names among its sons, it stands among the 
first in our favored New England. 

The annals of Portsmouth, especially of its earlier period, 
like all other colonial settlements in those rude and semi- 
barbarouji days, present many quaint phases of human na- 
ture and society, in which sterling common sense alternated 
with the grossest folly, a characteristic love of freedom with 
the most heartless oppression, and clear and enlightened 
views with the most grovelling superstitions. That abomin- 
able delusion, witchcraft, appeared here in 1648, when Mar- 
garet Jones was accused with being a witch, of such malig- 
nancy, that if she touched a person, it produced the most 
violent convulsions and other disorders. Upon such testi- 
mony she was convicted and executed. She was^ the first 
victim of the delusion, and thus was inaugurated that reign 
of terror, whose blackness all the present and future glory of 
New England will never efface. After her death her hus- 
band, finding no rest for the sole of his foot, in consequence 
of his relation to her, took passage for Barbadoes, on board a 
ship lying in the harbor. Immediately after he came on 



122 PORTSMOUTH. 

board, the ship began to roll so that they feared it would over- 
set, and Jones who was accused of being the Jonah, was 
arrested and conveyed to jail, after which the rolling ceased. 

As a specimen of the "rules of evidence " under the an- 
cient judiciary of New England we give the following : — 
One Gcodwife VValford was convicted of witchcraft in 1656, 
on the annexed testimony — Agnes Puddington deposes that 
"on the 11th of April, the wife of W. Evans came to her 
house, and lay there all night; and a little after sunset the 
deponent saw a yellowish cat, which to her appeared to be 
Goodwife Walford; and Mrs. E. said she was followed by a 
cat wherever she went. John then came and saw a cat 
in the garden — took down his gun to shoot her; the cat 
got up on a tree, and the gun would not take fire, and after- 
wards the cock would not stand. She afterwards saw three 
cats, — the yelk w one vanished away on the plain ground; 
she could not te 1 which w ay they went." 

The following enactments will show that the good people 
of Portsmouth were alive to the interests of religion : — Sept. 
25th, 1662. At a town meeting, "ordered that a cage be 
made, or some other means invented by the selectmen, to 
punish such as sleep, or take tobacco on the Lord's day out 
of the meeting, in the time of the public exercise." 

ISLES OF SHOALS, 
Seem to be a part of Portsmouth, because they are made 
easy of approach from this more than any other point. They 
number eight in number and are clustered in the ocean 
about nine miles from the Portsmouth light houses. The 
largest is Hog island, containing three hundred and fifty 
acres; ^tar island, 150; Haley's^ 100; and the largest of 
the others about eight, and the smallest one acre. These 
islands were discovered by John Smith, in 1614, and were 
named by him " Smith's Isles." They are a bed of rocks 



PORTSMOUTH. 123 

raising their disjointed heads above the ocean, and for the 
most part covered with a thin soil. Their appearance is in- 
hospitable, and but for their advantageous situation for carry- 
ing on the fisheries, v^'ould probably never have been inhab- 
ited. Upon all the islands are chasms in the rocks, having 
the appearance of being caused by earthquakes. The most 
remarkable is on Star island and Gosport, where one Betty 
Moody secreted herself when the Indians visited the island 
and took away many female captives. For more than a cen- 
tury previous to the Revolution these islands were populous, 
containing from three hundred to six hundred souls. They 
had a court house on Hog island ; a meeting house first on 
Hog island and then on Star island. The trade was once 
considerable, and a foreign clearance was made here once a 
year. Seven or eight schooners were also employed. Wil- 
liam Pepperel, an ancestor of the celebrated Sir VVm. Pep- 
perel, and a Mr. Gibbons, from Topsham, Eng., were among 
the first settlers at the Shoals. Pepperel was so poor for 
some time after his arrival, that the lady to whom he paid 
his addresses would not listen to him, till by constant atten- 
tion to business as a fisherman, he acquired enough to enable 
him to send a vessel to England, when the fair damsel yielded 
to the united influence of love and lucre. He subsequently 
became a wealthy merchant and the founder of a noble 
family. We do not know what the coat of arms of the Pep- 
perel family may be — but they might wilti propriety be 
"three dolphins or codfish on a field azure." John Cutt, 
brother of the first President, was one of the wealthy resi- 
dents. 

The history of the islands is one of interest, and so impor- 
tant were they consideredat one time, that we find a session 
of the General Court convened here. Space will not allow 
us to speak more at detail. 



124 K I T T E R T . 

The two largest are now known as celebrated watering 
places, and are much resorted to in the summer season, by 
invalids and others. The genuine sea bieeze and pure at- 
mosphere are regarded as highly beneficial to health, and 
the excellent sea baths and cooling breezes are great addi- 
tions to comfort. Boats may be found running to and from,al- 
most every day during the summer season, and the excellent 
hotels are every way adequate to the patronage. 

Leaving the station in Portsmouth, the train passes, at a 
moderate rate of speed, over the Portsmouth Bridge, which 
spans Pi5U3ataqua river, and connects the States of New 
Hampshire and Maine. This is a toll bridge which was 
built in 1822, uniting Kittery and Portsmouth more closely 
than ever before. For the purpose of railway travel, the 
bridge has .been widened, strengthened and improved, till it 
has become a structure of great strength and solidity. It is 
in fact composed of two separate bridges; the first fiom 
Portsmouth to Noble's Island, 480 feet long, and the second 
from the Island to Kittery. 1750 feet long. As we pass from 
Portsmouth, over this bridge, we have the carriage travel on 
our left hand, and in this direction northerly, we enjoy the 
beautiful prospect of Elliot Neck, apparently midway the 
river, with the opposite shores all dotted with houses, inter- 
mingled with trees and fields. On the right, as we move on, 
we have views of the harbor, Badger's Island and the Navy 
Yard. Just ov'er the bridije we halt at the station in 



KITTERY, 

57 miles from Boston, 50 miles from Portland. 

The Northeasterly curve of the road from the river, leaves 
the most of Kittery to the East and South of us, and out of 
sight from the road. Nevertheless, there are some objects 



KITTERY. 125 

ol" interest in the place to which the traveller who halts here 
or in Portsmouth may turn his attention. 

Kittery is the oldest town in Maine, having been incorpo- 
rated in 1647^ and from the excellence of the harbor, with 
rare facilities for fishing, it early became a place of some 
consequence. At Kittery Point, about four miles from the 
station, lived and died William Pepperel, Esq., a great land- 
holder, fisherman and merchant. He came hither from the 
Isles of Shoals, and was one of the founders of the First Con- 
gregational Church in 1714, and died in 1733. His elegant 
and costly monument, in admirable preservation, is an object 
of curiosity to all visitors A portion of his mansion still 
stands near PepperePs cove. Here also dwelt his son. Sir 
William Pepperel, Baronet, Lieut. General of His Majesty's 
Forces, &c., who was commander of the land troops at the 
capture of Louisburg, in 1745, and was knighted for his suc- 
cess. He lived here in great style and wealth for some 
years afterwards, and died in 1759. His remains rest in the 
same tomb with his father's. 

He died, after a sickness of long continuance, on the 
6th of July, 1759. Contemplating his life from his boyhood 
— the uneducated son of a fisherman — a merchant acquiring 
a princely fortune — a Major General of the English Colonial 
force — or a Baronet — we uniformly find him to be honest, 
humane, generous, persevering, and far-sighted in an emi- 
nent degree. The act of 1778, passed by Congress, confis- 
cated all the vast possessions he left to his heirs, but the he- 
ro's name will endure, nevertheless, forever. The mansion 
of Lady Pepperel and her daughter, with the old church 
where they worshipped, built in 1731, are "all standing. So 
is also the original parsonage house, built in 1729, wherein 
is the study of the Rev. Dr. Stevens, who was parish minis- 
ter there from 1751 to 1791. 



126 K I T T E R Y . 

The natural scenery at the Point, and in many other parts 
of Kittery, is sublime and beautiful, intermingling ocean, 
harbor, rock and river, island and continent, beach and 
mountain. So also art has completed what nature began. 
Kittery is a most irregular and broken piece of ground. Bor- 
dering on the ocean and harbor, it is indented by numerous 
creeks and inlets, and cut almost in twain by Spruce Creek. 
Within its limits are the N*avy Yard, Badger's, Cutts', Ger- 
rish's and Trefethen's Islands. Nearly all these are connec- 
ted with the main land by bridges. On Battery Hill stands 
Fort McClary, with its octagon Block House. From this 
point may be seen New Castle, Portsmouth, the Isles of 
Shoals, Whale's Back, &c., offering a great variety of views 
mingling nature and art. 

Kittery, in 1850, contained 2706 inhabitants, who are 
chiefly employed as ship-carpenters, fishermen and mariners. 
At one time it was a great commercial mart, and a famous 
ship-building place. But the times have raarvelously 
changed. Then at every launching it was the custom to 
roll in a barrel of rum for the men, and a barrel of wine for 
the gentler sex. Also, at funerals it was often the practice 
to send for "five gallons of rum, ten pounds of sugar, and 
hal^jp, pound of allspice, to make spiced rum' for the mourn- 
ers ! And even stranger than this, at an ordination, we 
have seen an original bill for liquors furnished, like the foI» 
lowing : — ''Eight quarts of rum and two quarts of brandy, for 
the Clergy and Council !" 

The land is very rocky, but the soil is good ; and where 
well cultivated, quite productive. There are several good 
farms, and one superior nursery and flower garden here. 
There are five churches, in all of which public worship is 
regularly sustained. 

From this brief view it may be seen that those observers 



KITTER Y . 127 

who delight in varied landscape, grand, picturesque and 
beautiful, would do well to pause here and look about, 
while those who are fond of the '■'- buried past," may look 
on the tokens and remnants of the former great ; and those 
who court retirement or seek health, may surely tind the foi- 
mer, and probably the latter. 

Kittery is the first town in the state of Maine on the sea- 
board. The discovery of the coast was as early as that of 
any other part of North America. Sebastian Cabot, a Vene- 
tian, sailed along the coast, under the authority of Henry 
VII, in 1496, only four years after the discovery of the West 
India Islands by Columbus. For the next hundred years 
there were no permanent settlers among the adventurers 
who sailed along the coast and navigated the rivers. In 1604 
Monsieur De Motte, governor of Canada, received a grant of 
lands in Maine, but being interrupted by the English, 
went onl}' to the Kennebec. The territory was then called 
'^ New France '^ or " Arcadia. '^ In 1639 Gorges obtained 
from Charles I, a grant of all the land from the Piscataqua 
river to the Kennebec, and one hundred and twenty miles 
back. In 1653 the whole Province was assumed by Massa- 
chusetts, and from that period to 1820, its history is blended 
with that of the north colony. In 1820 the new slat^ of 
Maine was formed. The early settlers of Maine, unlike 
those colonists of Plymouth. Massachusetts and Connecticut, 
had no lofty motives to impel them to energetic action, and 
sustain them under hardships and suffering. Their object 
was merely gain, and their efforts were without concert or 
energy. After the lapse of a century and a half, when the 
other colonies had become comparatively great and powerful, 
the settlements of Maine had hardly advanced beyond the 
sea coast. The red man was still master of the noblest riv- 
ers, and the whole number of white inhabitants was no* 



12^8 ELLIOT. 

supposed to number ten thousand. The settlers, actuated 
only by sordid motives, and possessing none of the virtues 
requisite for founding- a great state, were unable to overawe 
the suspicious savage, or even to control the rashness of the 
whites, and conflicting claims and jealousies among them- 
selves with the depredations from the Indians, makes their 
early history one of peculiar hardship and misfortune. vVhy 
they perseveringly continued under difficulties so great, is 
almost beyond our comprehension. Under Aiassachusetts 
government, the prosperity was more marked, and we now 
fiiid a large, powerful and intelligent state.. 

After passing this station, we pass on through a ledge, over 
a level country for a mile or two. A short distance further 
on a fine prospect opens to our vision, of woodland and pas- 
ture, orchard and field, with here and there a farm house 
with its neat surroundings, hemmed in by distant woods. 
Five miles brins: us to 



ELLIOT, 

62 milea from Boston, 45 miles from Portland, 

One of the best farming towns in the State of Maine. The 
settled portion of the town lays at the West of the station, on 
a point formed by Orampheagen River and Spinney's Creek, 
some distance off. This locality seems 'to be an exception to 
the selections of the early settlers, for around here the inhab- 
itants appear to have appreciated the most romantic spots. 
Says an eminent writer, in reading the journals and narrar 
lives of New England, nothing is more remarkable than the 
entire silence observed in respect to the natural beauty or 
grandeur of the scenery around which the lot of the pioneers 
was cast. They designated the grand and glorious forest, 
broken by lakes and crossed by rivers, intersected by a thou- 



ELLIOT. 129 

sand streams more beautiful than those which the old world 
has given to song and romancej as a ''desert and frightful 
wilderness," Many of these were well educated — men oi 
varied and profound erudition, and familiar with the best 
specimens of Greek and Roman literature; yet they seem to 
have been utterly devoid of that poetic feeling or fancy^ 
whose subtle alchemy detects the beautiful in the familiar. 

The first settlements were commenced here in 1632. It 
was then a part of Piscataqua, which embraced all the terri- 
tory in Kittery, Elliot, Berwick and South Berwick. In 1652, 
when it was subject to Massachusetts, it was all called Kit- 
tery, which name it retained until 1713, when a division was 
made between Kittery and Elliot. The next year a church 
was organized, and a regular minister settled. The territory 
was granted by Walter Neal, agent for Gorges and Mason, in 
1632. The seat of the church was '' Sturgeon Creek," 
where the main settlement was made. 

The entire territory is sparsely inhabited, and but a small 
portion of the land is waste. The soil is remarkably rich, 
and is generally undulating. The inhabitants, numbering 
about 1800, are chiefly farmers, though other pursuits are 
engaged in. 

There are several saw and grist-mills in Elliot. On Stur- 
geon Creek, — a creek running into the Piscataqua river, 
and into which flows a large brook, called Great Brook, 
which courses through the town from a spring in the edge of 
Kittery, — at the main (Fore) road from Portsmouth to South 
Berwick, there are two mills — a saw-mill and a grist-mill. 
These mills are what is generally termed tide-mills^ and can 
be run but a portion of the time. On a stream which flows 
from York Pond, (a pond situated on the northeastern part of 
Elliot, and in the edge of York) to York River, there are four 
mills, three saw-mills and a grist-mill. 
9 



130 beock's crossing. 

There are four meeting houses in this place. Two of 
them are situated near the centre of the town from north to 
south ; the Orthodox house in the western part of the town, 
on the "Fore Road," as it is called, and the Methodist house 
in the eastern part of the town, on the ''Back Road." These 
Fore and Back roads are main roads from Portsmouth to 
South Berwick and pass through Elliot nearly parallel to each 
.other, about two miles apart. The other two houses — the 
one belonging to the Methodists, the other to the Baptists, 
are situated on the Elliot Neck, and have been built but 9 
few years. There are eight school houses and districts in 
Elliot J also an Academy. 

There has been a marked progress in the prosperity of the 
town within the past few years. The inhabitants seem to 
have taken a fresh start, and the whole village indicates a 
renewed energy. There are several fine hills and two beau- 
tiful ponds located within its limits. 

From this station for a short distance, we pass several 
well cultivated fields, and then glide on through woods and 
pastures. Along this part of the road we catch our first view 
of *"' Agamenticus," in the town of York, a mountain of con- 
siderable eminence, and a noted landmark for mariners. 
The summit of this mountain has been made a station for 
the Coast Survey, under the direction of Prof. Bache. It 
rises about 600 feet above the sea, and a long reach of coast 
indented with bays and studded with islands, may be seen 
from its peak, as well as the greater portion of the county of 
York and the lower section of New Hampshire. The next 
station is 

BROCK'S CROSSING, 

67 miles from Boston, 40 from Portland, 
This is the junction of the Great Falls Branch Road. The 



SOUTH BERWICK JUNCTION. 131 

locality is in the town of South Berwick^ and the station was 
ejected here to accommodate passengers over the Branch 
road. We may not stop here, as many of these smaller sta- 
tions are run by without notice, there being very little travel 
by rail to or from these agricultural towns. The next station 
is one of great importance, where we shall find enough to 
amuse us during the delay in making up the trains, as the 
cars from this and the Boston and Maine road here unite, 
and proceed to Portland as one train. It is pleasant to take 
a stand upon the line of road, and watch the approach of 
one of these huge trains, and as it glides by, 

"First, the shrill whistle, then the distant roar. 
The ascending cloud of steam, the gleaming brass. 
The mighty moving arm ; and on amain 
The mass comes thundering, like an avalanche o'er 
The quaking earth ; a thousand faces pass — 
A moment, and are gone, like whirlwind sprites, 
Scarce seen ; so much the roaring speed benights 
All sense and recognition for a while ; 
A little space, a minute and a mile ! 
Then look again,— how swift it journeys on; 
Away, away, along the horizon. 
Like drifted cloud, to its determined place ; 
Power, speed, and distance, melting into space \" 



SOUTH BERWICK JUNCTION, 

69 miles from Boston, 38 from Portland, 

Is the terminus of the Boston and Maine road. Passenger 
leave heie for South Berwick, Salmon Falls, Somersworth, 
Great Falls, Dover, and in fact, all the interior towns. 

The town of South Berwick is a very thriving place, num- 
bering about- 2500 inhabitants. It is situated in a Southwest- 
erly direction, about two miles from the junction, on the 
Salmon Falls river. There is a cotton mill here, a plaster 
mill, and several other manufacturing establishments. It 



132 NORTH BERWICK. 

contains an academy, a high school, and a number of 
churches. From this point the river is navigable for rafts 
and small boats to the Piscataqua, and from thence to Ports- 
mouth. A large quantity of wood and lumber finds a market 
in this way. The business of the town is considerable, and 
it may justly be called a thriving and growing township. 

Formerly a part of Berwick, it obtained a separate act of 
incorporation, and took the name of South Berwick in 1814. 
The parent town was incorporated by an act of Court in 1713, 
the settlement then embacing the territory known as '• Ber- 
wick landing," and called by the Indians •' Quampeagan." 
Its increase was very rapid, and when the church was estab- 
lished here, as a characteristic name, it was knowm as '4he 
parish of unity." 

The land around here is good. In the vicinity of the sta- 
tion house, quite a prospect is enjoyed. Opposite, the ^'Great 
Works" river wends its way over a pebbly bottom, in gentle, 
rippling cascades, under the bridge. Near by the forest 
trees approach its banks with a thick, rich foliage, while on 
our left a cluster of houses, nestling here by the depot, make 
the scene complete. After considerable '' backing and fill- 
ing," we are once more on our journey. Four miles of for- 
est, with an occasional field or pasture, and we halt at 

NORTH BERWICK, 

73 miles from Boston, 34 from Portland, 

Stages leave here for the interior towns. We must slop 
awhile here, for a finer locality it will be difficult to find, and 
we are allowed five minutes for refreshments. This cluster 
of stores and houses on the left, were built here in conse- 
quence of the locafion of the road at this point. Either of 
these roads oil the left will lead us to the main village, about 



NORTH BERWICK. 133 

a quarter of a mile distant, where shall find a thriving place, 
embracing all the elements of an active community, and 
containing in a good measure, the means of prosperity and 
permanent success. Here, upon this same "Great Works'- 
river, which has its rise in this town, from the '^ Bonny Bigg 
Pond," is the North Berwick Company's Factory, for the 
manufacture of Machine Blankets and Lapping, Roller Jack- 
ets and Filtering Cloths, employing about forty hands, male 
and female, and producing about 8100.000 worth of goods 
per year. We likewise find here a key to a mystery that we 
have no desire to unlock. A steam mill for the manufacture 
of tea chests ! This mill sawsj planes and cuts up about half 
a million of lumber per year, for tea chests, for the Boston, 
Philadelphia and New York markets. We were told that 
these chests vary in capacity from five lbs. upwards, and are 
used for the repacking of tea for the Western market ; but 
report says that as tea comes to this country in different 
chops, and varies materially in price, it is profitable to break 
the original chests and repack in the Yankee style, sometimes 
perhaps mixing a little. The boxes are put together, papered 
and leaded in the large cities. The lumber used is white 
pine, while that used in the original chests is hard wood, and 
made up of narrow strips. If we have divulged a secret 
detrimental to tea speculators, we beg their pardon. There 
are also several saw mills in this town, one of which turns 
out about 400.000 of boards per year. One of the mills is 
close here at the depot. This is one of the largest wocd 
stations on the route. The inhabitants, numbering about 
1600, are engaged principally in farming and making shoes 
for Lynn manufacturers, and are generally prosperous. 

The easterly part of Berwick was incorporated as a distinct 
town, and called North Berwick, in 1831. Its territory is 
nearly seven miles in length and two and a half in width. 



134 WELLS. 

The celebrated '' Bonny Bigg Hill," the noted landmark for 
navigators, and said to have been the first land seen on the 
coast, is situated in the Northwestern portion of the town. 
Its rugged scenery and huge projecting clifl's make it an ob- 
ject of curiosity to visitors. From its summit may be ob- 
tained the most extensive view of the surrounding country. 
This village is somewhat noted for its fine farms, and for 
its excellent fruit. It has considerable trade from the coun- 
try towns around, has good educational resources, and main- 
tains some four or five distinct churches. Since the building 
of tlie railroad the population has increased, and the business 
incident to the road has advanced the wealth of its cihzens. 
The principal thing which attracts our attention from a scen- 
ery varying but little from that observed all the way from the 
Piscataqua, as we roll along, is the vast quantity of wood 
piled up near the track, ready for transportation. Once more 
we stop. This is 

WELLS, 

79 miles from Boston, 28 miles from Portland. 

Here our vision is almost entirely obstructed by the banks 
on cither siile. However, there is nothing upon the embank- 
ments, near the depot, worth clambering the steps for. A 
few buildings, with forest surroundings, are all we can sec. 
The town is four miles from this point, near the sea coast. 
There are about 3000 inhabitants in the whole town, mostly 
engaged in farming and in the fisheries. A few saw-mills 
are scattered along through the place, upon the Mcrriland 
and Mill rivers, two little streams furnishing sufficient power. 
There is but little manufacturing worthy of note here. The 
soil is rather sandy, and extensive meadows lay along parts of 
the coast. 



WELLS. 135 

The first permanent settlements were made in 1643. The 
town was called by the aborigines ^^Webhannet/^ from the 
river of that name; which runs through the marsh and forms 
a harbor. The Rev. John Wheelwright, brother to the cele- 
brated Ann Hutchinson, who was banished from Boston for 
Antinomianism, was among the first inhabitants. The grant 
for a survey of the territory, which included the town of 
Kennebunk, was given him by Thomas Gorges, in 1643. He 
was a classmate of Oliver Cromwell. In 1664 the first court 
of the Province of Maine was held in Wells. In 1692 the 
settlement was broken up by the savages. In 1750 the set- 
tlers had returned and the population advanced to 1000 in- 
habitants. 

Wells Beach is a noted resort during the summer season. 
The harbor formed by the principal river is greatly obstruct- 
ed by sand bars. In the south part another river called 
Ogunquit, forms a small harbor for vessels of light descrip- 
tion. There is one remarkable feature respecting this river. 
Within the memory of men now living, the outlet to the sea 
shifted nearly a mile. It formerly ran where it now does, 
but in a violent storm, it became obstructed, and broke 
through the beach nearly a mile to the eastward. The 
river thus found a vent, and the former channel was filled 
up. The beach however gradually wore away, and in the 
course of time regained its former position, leaving an island. 
There are other rivers and brooks running through the town 
in various directions. 

But jingle goes the bell, and we skim along, lost perhaps 
in contemplation. 1 his rail car is a microcosm. It is an 
entire world of itself — shooting along by an unseen power, 
which a boy learned to bridle and use from seeing the top of 
a tea kettle lift by the pulsation of hot water, or else we had 
never had it ; — on such trifles hang the weiehtiest discover* 



IZQ WELLS. 

ies. The car is a school where every thing can be learned, 
and where all subjects — poUtical and religious, relating to the 
material and spiritual, are discussed with looseness; and 
there is none to order, none to establish rules, and none to 
interfere, till the train stops. Blessings on the man who in- 
ventetl sleep, said one — a thousand blessings on the mem- 
ory of him who set rail cars travelling, though like most of 
the benefactors of the human race he lived and died poor. 
We don't see why a monument has not been erected to his 
honor ; though possibly somebody would stick in, that rail- 
roads had destroyed many lives; but there is this in their 
favor on that ponit, that they teach us to look upon a smash- 
up, as intended for any body else rather than ourselves, and 
thus we have seen a whole car full sit quietly and read 
an account of a terrible accident that sent half a hundred 
poor souls into eternity, without once reflecting that they 
were liable to the same fate, the next moment. Why should 
one torment himself before his time 1 If the purest water 
we drink was examined through a microscope, half of us 
would die of thirst before we could swallow the anirnalculse- 
that are swimming there. 

Who has not rode in the cars? Everybody that is anybody. 
We look upon the travellers around us and what a variety of 
people; all ages are here, from the child at the breat to the 
grandfather stricken in years ; all classes are here, the 
scholar and the unlettered, the rich and the poor, the black 
and the white, all subject to the same law of social democ- 
racy. On one side is tlie family group that are as much at 
home as they would be in the parlor, and on the otKer the 
lone person who may never have had a home to go to. Here 
a bridal party, full of glee and hope and love ; and following 
them are mourners going to attend a funeral. Some one sits 
opposite silent, immersed in his own ideas, or having none 



KENNBBUNK. 137 

requiring utterance ; and by his side is another running over 
with speech concerning himself or others — of what is said, 
done or seen. But our meditations are interruptcdj and we 
find here in the woods the station house at' 



KENNEBUNK. 

48 mil33 from JBoston, 23 from Portland. 

'I here is no settlement at the depot, and the villages are 
at considerable distance. As the station at Kennebunkport 
has been discontinued, we shall include the tvvotowns,whose 
interests are identical, in our brief sketch. The Mousam 
river, which furnishes a great amount of water power, runs 
directly through Kennebunk, while the Kennebunk river, 
in a Northwesterly course from the sea, dividing the two 
townsj^has quite a number of unoccuped mill privileges. 

On this river, at Kennebunk village, there was formerly 
quite a large cotton mill in operation. This mill was burned 
some years ago, and has not been re-built. Part of the build= 
ings of that company, with their mill-dam, &c., still remain. 
This mill was located just by the main street passing through 
the village east and west. 

About two miles above the railroad, is a fall called ''Great 
Fall." This fall of water is entirely unoccupied. It is 
said that many years ago there was a saw-mill here, but now 
no traces of it are to be seen. Marks of a cellar, (where the 
miller's house probably stood) still are visible. The fall 
at this place is a broken and irregular one, being over 
a rocky bed. The river in the distance of ten or fifteen 
rods, falls forty or fifty feet. This fall of water can be 
heard for quite a distance when the river is high, as the 
water tumbles down over the rocks, and somewhat resembles 
in appearance the Great Falls on the Saco. It will well 



138 KENNEBUNK. 

repay the lover of natural scenery for a visit. The view 
around, above, and below the falls, is wild and romantic. 
The land by the river is mostly covered with a growth of 
trees with the exception of the point spoken of. For the 
space of nearly a mile above the falls the eastern bank of 
the river is from fifty to one hundred feet high and very steep 
and the other bank ^is very low — but a few feet above the 
water. On these two rivers there are several saw-milla. 
Both of the towns are pleasant localities^ and contain eviden- 
ces of public spirit. There is much taste displayed in the 
villages in the erection of houses, and in laying out gardens. 
The population is industrious and thrifty. Ship-building is an 
important business of the towns. The main village, like 
those of other towns in the vicinity is near the sea ccast. 
There are no particular spots of interest around in the viciil» 
ity off the course of the river. The population of Kennebunk 
is 2,700 and that of Kennebunkport about the same. 

The towns were settled as early as any of their neighbors, 
and what is now Kennebunkport was known as Arundel. 
A very few fragments of the town records between 1678 and 
1719 have escaped the general wreck, and until after the 
Indian war of 1719, but little information can be had. The 
name was taken in 1821, on petition to the Maine Legislature. 

In the centre of the village of Kennebunk, are six elm 
trees, very large, thrifty and fine looking, which were set out 
on the day of the battle of Lexington. The soil occupied by 
those six trees is just suited to them, and they have attained 
a great size, and are shaped much alike ; handsome trees 
of themselves, but from the associations connected with 
them, rendered doubly interesting. They yet look young 
and healthy, and will, doubtless, live to shade the pathway 
of many a person for generations yet to come. 

From the Kennebunk station we ride on through a country 



BIDDEFORD. 139 

alternatiag- with forest, field and pasture, here and there 
catching a glimpse of the high hills of New Hannpshire and 
Maine, and at intervals rushing by a landscape of more than 
common attraction. Eight miles and we stop at 



BIDDEFORD, 

92 miles from Boston, 15 from Portland, 

A town that has sprung up with amazing rapidity, which 
fifteen years ago, where the business portion is now located, 
was cultivated field and pasture, upon which were few farm- 
houses. It is now a ciiy, incorporated in 1854, and has a 
population of nearly 9000. Six large cotton factories, five 
§aw-mills, 2 grist-mills, 4 machine shops, with the business 
connected with, each, furnish employment to a large number 
df operatives, and create a busy and energetic population 
outside their immediate limits. 

The city lays upon a slope on the easterly bank of the 
Saco river, and extends back to what is called Biddeford 
Heights^ upon the summit of which is a large reservoir, filled 
with water forced up from the river. From this point can 
be had a fine view of the city to the river, with its thickly 
settled streets, elegant buildings and tasteful gardens ; here, 
too, stretches out the whole extent of the city's territory, and 
in the distance the White Hills of New Hampshire, Agamen- 
ticus, and the villages clustering upon the hills and in the 
valleys, form a panorama of extended beauty. 

The educational advantages of the city are excellent. 
The churches are numerous and liberally sustained. Librat* 
ies, institutions for intellectual advancement, and all the 
means of improvement, are here found in goodly numbers. 

Though this portion of territory was first settled, the towns 
of Biddeford and Saco are so situated on both sides of the 



S A c o . 141 

river, connected by bridges and united by business relations; 
that we may be justified in considering them as one place, 
and so pass on over the bridge which spans the Saco river, 
from which we have a comprehensive view of the two towns, 
to the station in 

SACO, 

04 miles from Boston, 13 miles from Portland. 

A town of nearly the same magnitude, and made up of 
the same elements with Biddeford. The Saco river termi- 
nates its fantastic course at this point by falls within a short 
distance of 42 feet, and mingling wiih tide water. Several 
islands are formed in the middle of the river, the largest of 
which — Factory Island — belongs on the Saco side, and con- 
tains the five cotton factories of the Saco Manufacturhig 
Company, the boarding houses, shops, &c., and is so connect- 
ed by bridges and roads, that one could hardly tell that it 
was not a part of the main land, though upon each side are 
extensive water powers. Indeed, a glance at the map of 
the two towns^ or a view, shows them so closely allied that it 
seems hardly just to call them by two names. The power 
created by the falls is very extensive, and the tovi'ns enjoy 
the rare advantage of possessing great hydraulic power, 
united with facilities for navigation close at hand. The ad- 
vantages of these places for profitably carrying on manufac- 
turing operations, are considered equal to any other place 
in New England. On the Biddeford side, the point makes 
out much farther than on the Saco side, and fine beaches 
run from each point. - ^ 

Saco, like Biddeford, has grown rapidly, — the first mill was 
erected in 182G, and burned in 1830. Fifteen years since it 
was a small village, and now in addition to its numerous man- 
ufacturing interests contains all the characterisfics of a city. 



142 SACOAND BIDDEFORD. 

llie settlements of all the ancient towns in this part of the 
State was first made on the sea shore, and until 1750, all the 
travel from Portsmoulh eastward was either on the beach or 
near it. A small settlement was made at Cape Porpoise as 
early as 1632 and another at Winter Harbor about the same 
time. The two settlements were but a few miles from each 
other. In a few years from the first settlement the inhabit 
tants had planted themselves on the sea' shore, for several 
miles. The advantages for fishing in Saco river and in the 
adjacent vv^aters drew hither a considerable number of persons 
before any regular grant of the soil was made. It was called 
Saco on both sides of the river until 1718. Among the first 
settlers were Richard Benython, Richard Vines, Thomas 
Lewis, William Phillips, and John Oldham. The first recoidfl 
of the town of Saco, including both Saco and Biddeford, com* 
mences with the year 1663, ten years after the people had 
submitted to the government of Massachusetts. At the time 
Massachusetts assumed the jurisdiction of Maine but 16 
men applied and took the oath of allegiance as inhabitants of 
Saco, In 167 i a house of worship was erected, which be 
ing furnished with benches, the people were seated in order, 
according to their rank by the Selectmen. 

The Indians were generally peaceable until 1695, the 
year of general warfare in New England ; their confidenci9 
in the English being then impaired, it was impossible to 
restore it. One of the rash acts on the part of the English 
nearly concerned these inhabitants, and was the first rup- 
ture of the long peace between them and the Saco tribe. 
At this time Squando was Sagamore of Saco. He was a 
chief of great influence with the other tribes, and had long 
resisted the entreaties of Phillip, who considered it neces- 
sary to his success to engage him against the English. Cot- 
ton Mather speaks of him as a strange enthusiastical Saga- 



SACO AND BIDDEFORD. 143 

more, who some years before pretended that God appeared 
to him in the form of a tall man, in black clothes, declaring 
to him that he was God, and commanded him to leave off 
drinking strong liquors, and to pray, and to keep the Sabbath, 
and to go and hear the word preached, — all of which the 
Indian did, for some time with great seeming conscience, 
observe. Just at this crisis some reckless English seaman 
overset a canoe in which Squando's wife and pappoose were 
cjossing the Saco. The child sank in the water, and was 
only saved from drowning by the efforts of its mother. Soon 
after the child died, and Squando, attributing the death to the 
upsetting of the canoe, immediately declared himself the 
etnemy of the English, and entered into an alliance with 
other tribes, and commenced a warfare upon the settlers. 
For about forty years after this no records of the town can 
be found. Such were the troubles of the country at this 
tune that it is doubtful whether any records were kept. It 
is quite probable that this town was abandoned by the whites, 
la 1703 a band of 500 French and Indians made a suddeii 
descent on all the setdements from Saco to Wells, and in 
Saco eleven persons'were killed and twenty-four wounded. 
In 1717 the inhabitants returned, and order was again ob- 
served. 

Around here are]various monuments, reminding us of the 
unfortunate race that once inhabited this spot. A history of 
these primeval inhabitants of our soil, informing us ho^ 
they lived, loved and died ; describing their feats in war 
and their sports in peace ; giving us the lives of the bronze 
beauties, whose varied charms brought rival lovers to. their 
feet, and kindled ,|lhe fire of jealousy in the keen eye of 
many a young warrior; — or, telling us, on the other hand, of 
the gray fathers, who were looked up to as next to the great 
Spirit in wisdom and in all that calls for veneration, — such a 



144 SACO AND BIDDEFORD. 

history would be worth a thousand volumes of the men of 
our owii bloody who itihabited the patrimony of the red man. 
But it is too late to recover it : they have passed away for- 
ever, and it is only when the husbandman's ploughshare 
turns up; occasionally, the blackened bones of an athletic 
frams, or when some hoary-headed patriarch narrates by the 
winter fireside some almost forgotten tradition of the early 
settlerSj that the men of these times remember that we live 
upon a soil which is not our own. 

In 1719, the settlements on both sides of the river were unit- 
ed and called Biddeford, The business of the villages was 
principally sawing lumber, and several saw-mills were erect- 
ed. In June 1762, all the lands on the east side of the river 
together with the large island, was incorporated by the name 
of Pepperellborough, in honor of William Pepperell, wlio im- 
proved the Falls. In 1805 the name of Saco was resumed. 
The afiairs of the two towns present nothing of uncommon 
interest. During the Revolution the inhabitants exhibited 
their patriotism in sustaining the cause of the colonists, and 
at its close rapid progress in prosperity was made. For 
many years the towns took the lead in the lumbering busi- 
ness of the State. In 1800, there were seventeen saw-mills 
in operation, running out about 50,000 feet per day. In 1827, 
the amount of lumber sawed was 21,000,000. The first at- 
tempt to introduce other manufactures was made in 1811. 
Iron works were- then established, which soon gave way to 
cotton mills. In the progress of time the lumber business 
has declined and other branches of trade taken their places. 
The saw-mills have given way to the cotton factory, and the 
valuable water power, which once set in motion the saw and 
axe of the lumberman, now drives the spindles and looms 
of the manufacturer. Of works of a private nature their 
number precludes a notice ; — woolen mills, factories for the 



SACO AND BIDDEFORD. 145 

manufacture of oil cloths, iron foundries, machine shops, 
&c,, are in operation^ and in addition the saw mills and ship- 
building interest, united, materially advance the prosperity 
of the towns. 

There are many fine prospects to be obtained in various 
parts of the towns. From Cemetery Hill, in Saco, a good view 
of the two places is obtained as they cluster in almost a solid 
mass upon a small part of the territory. The surrounding 
country is mostly cut up into fields and pastures, which are 
well improved. The streets are rather irregular, but gener- 
ally wide and clean. The buildings are mostly new, and 
many of them display taste and durability. Those belong- 
ing to the corporations are substantial and commodious, regu- 
larly arranged and uniform in appearance. The general 
aspect of the places make a favorable impression upon the 
visitor. The freshness of everything about here evincee 
youth, yet the plan indicates a growing people. 

There appears no reason why Saco and Biddeford may not 
continue in growth until they have become great cities. 
They possess advantages seldom found so strongly invit- 
ing imnrovement, and with the powerful waterfalls of tho 
noble Saco, a stream abounding with unoccupied privileges, 
and equal to any demand, we hope some day to see these 
towns among the great manufacturing cities of New England. 

Again we start, the distance between us and our destina- 
tion rapidly diminishing. As we advance we find the forests 
growing more dense, though apparently made up of a young 
growth of trees. The hills on our left are more numerous, 
and the scenery generally presents a ;wilder aspect. A few 
minutes bring us to 

10 



146 

WEST SCARBOEOUaH, 

96 miles from Boston, 11 from Portland, 

A station erected to accommodate the inhabitants of this 
part of the town. As there is nothing of particular interest 
in this vicinity we pass on over extensive marshes, separat- 
ing "Black Point" from "Blue Point," the two famous local- 
ities in early times, washed by the water of the Nonsuch 
river which runs in a serpentine course to the ocean. Riding 
five miles in the same town, we come to the main station at 



SCARBOROUGH. 

101 miles from Boston, 6 from Portland. 

This station is called '' Oak Hill," the name of the emi- 
nence on our left, d-erived from the fact of its being at one 
time covered with a forest of oak trees. It is an agricultural 
town of large extent, and is composed of three villages — 
" Dunstan's Corner," " Scarborough Corner,'' and '' Blue 
Point." Several saw-mills are operated in diiferent parts of 
the town. This spot is rich in history, and was at one time a 
place of great importance, holding a forward rank among the 
larger towns of the early province. The energy and enter- 
prise of the citizens were proverbial. As late as 1791, the 
census showed but slight difference in population between 
Scarborough and Portland. The returns from the two towns 
then were, Portland 2240; Scarborough 2235. The excellent 
advantages of the situation are unchanged, though towns 
hardly equal to her companionship, have since exceeded her 
in growth and prosperity. 

For many years the lumbering business engaged the 
whole attention of most of the townsmen. The valley ot 



SCARBOROUGH. 147 

the Nonsuch funiiohed most excellent tmiberj and the Nortb- 
western part of the town was a dense forest. Lumber in 
early times was a current medium here, the minister and 
schoolmaster were paid in it. 

The Indian name was ^'Owascoagy' a place of much 
grsKs. Settlemeirts were made early. In 1640 there were 
several iuhabilttnts. In 1651 the name of Scarborough was 
taken. In 1671 the population numbered 300. In 1688 it 
had decreased to 56 male inhabitanfe. In 1689 the town 
was broken up by the Indians, and for 30 years was almost 
entirely abandoned. The records were carried to Boston for 
safety, and not returned till 1719. The precise date of the 
second settlement is not known, but in all probability it was 
in 1702-'3, It was a little band of seven persons from 
Lynn, who, for several years were the only inhabitants. In 
1720, 31 inhabitants had returned. A part of the large town 
lying by the sea called Beach Point, was granted by the 
Council of Plymouth, to Thomas Cannock, in 1631. This 
was f:oon after settled, and became of considerable impoi> 
tance on the coast in fisheries and trade. The land is still 
held under the ancient grant. Another settlement was early 
made by a family of Algers, from England, near the centre 
of the town, and then called "Dunstan Corner," which name 
it retains. In 1734 the town was divided into two parts and 
to save expense the selectmen were empowered to hire a 
preacher who was to act as school master. From the revoliB- 
tion down through a long period, the town enjoyed an uninj- 
terrupted prosperity. The only chief magistrate recognized 
b^ authority, was from Scarboro', which, was the birth place 
of Rufus King, and his brother William King, first govep- 
nor of Maine. 

Scottow's Hill is in this town. It is rendered famous as the 
place where the signal fires of old were|lighted, and where 



148 SCARBOROUGH. 

the beacon telegraphed to the surrounding country, the ap- 
proach of danger. 

We find in the history of this town a large quantity of tra- 
dition and incident, which, had we room, would be of inter 
est to the reader. In 1636, Richard Fax well, a very enter- 
prising and active man settled at Blue point in this town, 
He held several offices of trust, and exerted a great influ 
ence on the settlers. There is a story told of him which 
savors of fairy mythology, and shows that our forefathers 
brought over with them some of the mysterious characters 
of the old world. ^'Faxwell had been to the eastward in a 
sliallop ; on his return he was overtaken by the night, and 
fearing to land on the barbarous shore, put off a little farther 
to sea. About midnight he and his crew were awaJcened by 
a loud voice from the shore, calling "Fax well ! Fax well ! 
come ashore !" — three times. Upon the sand they saw a 
great fire, and men and women hand in hand, dancing about 
it in a ring. After an hour or two they vanished, and as soon 
as the day appeared, Fax well put into a small cove, and 
traced along the shore, where he found the footsteps of men, 
women and children, shod with shoes, and an infinite num- 
ber of brand ends thrown up by the water; but neither 
Indian nor English could he meet with on the shore nor in 
the woods !" 

An anecdote is related of one of the iScarboro' planters 
which strongly resembles the fireside stories of Old England 
m Shakspeare's day. when "Queen Mab," and "Puck'' 
were in the full enjoyment of their power : 

"There lived at Black Point an old planter, who on a sun- 
shiny day about one of the clock, lying upon a green bank 
not far from his house, charged his son, a lad 12 years of 
age, to awaken him when he had slept two hours. The 
old man falls asleep, and lying upon his back gaped with 



CAPE ELIZABETH. 149 

his mouth wide enough for a hawk to fly into it ; after a while 
the lad sitting by spied a bumble bee creeping- out of his 
father's mouth, which taking wing, flew quite out of sight. 
The hour, as the lad guessed, being come, to awaken the 
father, he tried but could not raise him. At last he sees the 
bumble bee returned, lighted upon the sleepers lip, and 
walked down his throat and presently he awaked." This is 
a beautiful illustration of a common superstition that the 
spirit departs from the body in the form of a bird or bee. 
Tarrying but a moment, the train sweeps rapidly on for 

the next four miles, over extensive meadows, revealing 
some pleasing views of water and rural scenery, when we 

stop at 

CAPE ELIZABETH, 

105 miles from Boston, 2 miles from Portland. 

Passengers for Lower Kennebec, Bath, Hallowell, Gard- 
.ner, Augusta, Kendall's Mills, Scowhegan, York and Cum- 
berland Road. &c., change cars in this station. 

This is one of the oldest towns in the State. It occu- 
pies the territory on the southeast shore of the famed Casco 
Bay, and was originally a part of Falmouth, which embraced 
Portland, Cape Elizabeth, and Westbrook. The earliest 
permanent settlements in this region were made on the east- 
ern side of the town. We find grants of land to individuals 
from 1643 onward. It was broken up by the Indians, and 
for sixteen years laid waste. At one time it was a consid- 
erable town. 

The villages within its limits are quite small, the inhabi- 
tants being scattered over the territory, and chiefly occupied 
in farming. The chief attraction is Granby's Hill, on Spur- 
wink river, which forms a dividing line between this town 
and Scarborough. This hill overlooks a fine beach, and has an 



150 CAPE ELIZABETH, 

extended prospect. Nothing can exceed the charming 
view opening upon the vision from this eminence, upon a 
clear summer day, with the invigorating sea-breeze fanning 
into life the wasted energies of the body. How many brave 
the dangers of ocean, and forego the sweet pleasures of 
home for many months, to visit certain localities in the old 
world, and yet have overlooked scenery of surpassing love- 
liness near their own doors. Standing upon this hill, 
above the ocean waves, and taking in at a glance the wide 
spread and varied landscape bathed in the glories of a sum- 
mer sun-set, one will find a scene as lovely as the old world 
can give. To be sure there are no ruined castles, telling of 
former greatness, no splendid cathedrals reared at the ex- 
pense of poverty and degradation, but there are pretty houses 
-—"sweet homes," where patriotism was nursed, which de- 
fended the soil from invasion and secured to posterity a sa- 
cred freedom — humble sanctuaries of the Most High, where 
a purer worship is ofiered from hearts than splendid ceremo- 
nies ever presented to the All-seing eye. Fort Preble, a 
place of interest commands the entrance of Portland harbor. 
The Farm School is worthy of notice. The Cape possesses a 
diversity of scenery, with its wild and ragged cliffs and bold 
headland, which we shall further notice in Portland. 

This town contained a pond which upon being drained, 
disclosed a bed of peat, from which is made, by carboniza- 
tion, the celebrated deodorizing powder ; and which of late 
has been successfully used in making gas. 

Ship building is the great business of a portion of the town, 
and most of the ships for Portland are here constructed. 

The few moments consumed in passing from this station 
across the bridge are eagerly spent in gazing right and left, 
to catch a bird's eye view of the passing beauties. The bold 
headlands of BramhalPs Hill, with the quiet waters at its basQ, 



PORTLAND. 151 

and the charming slopes of the Cape, are hardly seen be- 
fore we are at the gas works, by the Pomt, and at the sta- 
tion in 



PORTLAND, 

107 miles from Boston. 

Passengers for the White Mountains, Montreal, Andros- 
coggin and Kennebecli: Road, Bangor, Waterville, and all 
stations on the Eastern roads, will remain in the cars, and pro- 
ceed io the lower depot. 

Portland, as before stated, was originally a part of Fal- 
mouth. The early settlers were attracted to this spot by it3 
advantages. Being on the high way of coasting business, 
having the sea with its ample stores of fish on one side, and 
the forest with its woods, its furs, and its savage tenants on 
the other, it was regarded as a favorable locality. At a very 
early period it was a famous resort for fishermen, and a con- 
siderable foreign comm.erce was carried on. In 1638 a cargo 
of wine was landed here, and the same year we find one 
gentleman employing sixty men in fishing, and importing 
6000 pipe staves. Before l(i48 large ships arrived here and 
were filled with cargoes for Europe, but after that period 
commerce declined, its population fell oif. and after the In- 
dian war, it ceased to be a place of importance. 

That part of Falmouth now called Portland^ was known 
as the Neck, and by the Indians as Machigonne. It owed 
its settlement, at the particular time it was made, to a con- 
test in regard to the tide of land at the mouth of the Spur- 
wink river. This point of land was not regarded with so 
much favor by the inhabitants as other portions of the sur- 
rounding territory, so that in 1660 ws find it in the hands of 
a few proprietors. In 1675 but five or six families occupied 



PORTLAND. 1 5'8 

the land. The next ten years the surrounding populatfon 
had rapidly increased, and twenty-five families was the gain 
for this locality. During the Indian wars, this portion of the 
town was almost entirely abandoned, and its history to the 
peace of Utrecht, in 1713, is one of but little importance. 
In 1716 there were but 15 men upon the Neck, and in 1718 
the number had increased to 20 families. In 1759 there 
were on the Neck 136 dwelling houses, beside four ware- 
houses occupied by families, the whole embracing 160 fami- 
lies, numbering about 1000 souls. The principal business 
of the town was in lumber and wood and in fishing. The 
only vessels owned here were schooners and sloops, the 
largest of which was 80 tuns burthen, and the number 7 of 
the former and 15 of the latter, a small portion of which were 
engaged in the West India trade. The building of vessels 
and boats gave employment to a portion of the people. The 
farming interests were so much neglected, that the people 
were almost entirely dependent on importations from the 
South, for their breadstuffs, and were frequently reduced to 
great want by precarious supplies. The inhabitants were a 
hardy, industrious and intelligent race. They did not come 
here to live in ease, but to seize upon the rough materials of 
wealth, to develope the resources of a new country, and to 
make themselves independent. The outward condition of 
the people in their style of habitations and living, bore no 
comparison to the luxury of the present day. The buildings 
were all of wood, many of them but one story high, and gen- 
erally unpainted. The style of living, except in dress, was 
plain and simple — yet punch and flip were common drinks 
on all occasions that called people together. Considerable 
attention was paid to dress on such times as gave respite to 
the ordinary duties of life. The facilities for business were 
poor. There was no mail east of Portsmouth, and the only 



154 PORTLAlfD. 

mode of travel by land was either on horseback or on. foot. 
Such was the condition of men and things in Portland one 
hundred years since, as given us by Mr. Willis the historian. 
Down through the revolutionary war, the records show th© 
usual fluctuations in the business and prospects of the Neck, 
and the votes passed and measures taken evince a patriotism 
equal to that displayed in other communities. In 1786, 
July 4, an act incorporating the town of Portland was pass 
ed. . Its population was then about 2000, and the territory 
embraced in the act was three miles in length and an aver- 
age of three quarters of a mile in breadth, ''The lands are 
some clay and the rest sand and gravel." The town con-" 
tained one church, and four societies. The number of dwel- 
ling houses 412, the number of families 600. From 1807 
to 1815 the commercial embarrassments had entirely pros- 
trated the town. "The enemy was hovering on the coast 
with a formidable fleet, which ever and anon looked into our 
harbor with its blood-shot eyes. The people had transported 
many of their valuable moveables into the country ■. the 
town was filled with soldiers ; was partially fortified, and 
the people were under constant apprehensions of an attack, 
or a forced contribution. The elements of its prosperity, be- 
ing entirely commercial, had been struck down and prostra- 
ted — the largest mercantile houses had failed — their vessels 
were decaying in the docks — the grass was growing upon the 
wharves, and universal bankruptcy seemed the doom of the 
place." The tonnage fell off 9000 tons and the arr.ount of 
duties went down from S342,909 to S41,369. The popular 
tion in 1814 did not exceed 7000, many of the houses were 
unoccupied as well as numerous stores, which had previous- 
ly been the busy scenes of trade. The next year, peace 
having been restored, the people began to recover from their 
prostrate condition and slowly advance to a brighter day. 



PORTLAND. 155 

From this period to the present the history of Portland is the 
history of a rapidly progressing people. 

The principal reason of the slow growth of Portland, in 
early times, was not its exposure to Indian conflicts, or its ex- 
treme northeastern position in the colonies, which gave it a 
rigorous climate, but its being upon the frontiers, where the 
rival English and French contended for the mastery. From 
the time that Jacques Cartier sailed up the St. Lawrence, in 
1531, claiming the possession of the Canadies for his king, 
the French sought to establish an empire in North America, 
that should stretch from the Bay of St, Lawrence to the 
Delta of the Mississippi • and in 1603, the French king 
granted to Du Monts, the great French navigator^ all that 
portion of the country lying between 40 and 46 degrees of 
latitude ; and all east of the Kennebec was actually occu- 
pied as French territory till 1697. This claim of territory, 
under the name of New France, even included Boston. Dli 
Monts learned from the natives of the country that the short- 
est connection of Canada with the Atlantic was not by the 
way of the river ; and he almost anticipated the track of the 
Atlantic and St. Lawrence railroad, in seeking it across the 
land. In that search he explored the coast down to Cape 
Porpoise, and nominally possessed himself of the country to 
that point. He described the harbor of Portland, in 1603, as 
does also Christopher Levett, who visited it in 1621, as the 
principal seaport, with the safest, best and most commodious 
waters, and the most accessible of any on the Atlantic coast, 
east of Massachusetts. This, character, which the harbor 
attained at the earliest date, it has continually retained. — 
There is no condition of tide, there are no winds, and no 
seasons of the year, when it is not a safe place of refuge 
Irom the storms and severe weather. During the easterly 
gales of summer, hundreds of vessels will sometimes collect 



156 PORTLAND. 

there in a day ; and in winter, when Boston and other ports 
are frozen over, Portland is very seldom obstructed with ice. 
It has a rise and fall of tides that prevents such adhesion of 
the ice as to long remain in the harbor. It was for this rea- 
son that it was selected as the terminus of the Atlantic and 
St. Lawrence road in the United States ; and a better selec- 
tion could not have been made. But Portland harbor is not 
only safe and capacious, but it has the advantage of the 
deepest water. The largest ship that floats is as admissible 
to its wharves, as the little shallop ; and therefore it is 
that the Great Eastern steamer, which would contain several 
vessels as large as was Noah's ark, is destined to Portland, 
when it cannot enter the ports of Boston and New York. 

This harbor is, further, one of the most beautiful sheets of 
water that was ever presented to the human eye. It is 
formed by one of the arms of Casco Bay, than which during 
the whole summer, the Bay of Naples is not more delightful. 
For two or three miles it spreads out to the ocean, with iis 
surface broken by more than three hundred islands, of great- 
er or less size, and with bold promontories, headlands and 
ledges making into its waters, giving some "of the finest 
views and most enchanting scenery to be found in New Eng- 
land. For a yacht party, commend us to the waters of the 
Casco, when its bosom is unruffled, save by the light 
zephyrs that fill the canvas, and keep out the flowing sheet, 
but are not strong enough to sweep the heavens of the sum- 
mer clouds that hang lazily between earth and sky, and 
fringed with golden colors, and send out silvery haze 
to shade the woodlands, the pastures and the hills. On 
such a day as we glide along by the green islands, whose 
projecting points whiten with the surf of waves rolling in 
from mid-ocean — as the skiff coasts along, by grassy inlets, 
where the trees overhang the waves — or more boldly strikes 



PORTLAND. 157 

out to the deeper blue, where plummet and line will sound 
the habitations of the fishes to furnish repast, there is pleas- 
ure and happiness, if anywhere it is to be attained. 

This harbor furnishes two conditions of water that are de- 
sirable for pleasure or for business. There is the inner and 
the outer — the first almost surrounded by the lands, and the 
second, with its broad lap opening to receive the riches of 
the seas, and the advantages of extended commerce. Upon 
another page we have a truthful view of Diamond Cove, 
a clear body of water, that makes at the Northeastern ex- 
tremity of Diamond Island, about a half dozen miles from 
the city. This Cove is almost excluded from the ocean, 
and is surrounded with high banks — with forests, where the 
beech, the oak, the maple and the pines intermingle, and at 
sunset throw their shadows long on the mirror surface, or 
by the clean pebbly shores, that are desirable for landing. 
Here at the proper season, can always be found, parties of la- 
dies and gentlemen, picnicking upon the banks which are 
most agreeable for such purposes. If the more open water 
is wanted, guide your yacht along the southeasterly side of 
the harbor, where Cape Elizabeth stretches out three leagues 
into the sea. This is a somewhat celebrated watering place, 
as we have before stated, where is Cape Cottage, three miles 
from the city, that commands a view of every vessel going 
in or out of the port ; and five miles beyond that is the 
Ocean House, which has the unbroken sea-air, so desirable 
in hot weather, and a good view of the shores and the "roll- 
ing deep.' ' Out here are the light-houses and the fog bell, 
and the forts that command the entrance to the harbor ; and 
half a mile away is Richmond Island, where fishing par- 
ties will find abundant amusement. As we stand here by 
the Ocean House, or sail by the sunken rocks, over which 
the waters tremble, tumble, and roar forever — watching the 



158 PORTLAND. 

straining and smoking steamers that run south to Boston and 




New York or east connecting with Bangor, Damariscotta, 
Eastport, St. John's, N. B., or Liverpool, England,_for ttJ 



PORTLAND. 159 

is Portland united to the ports of the United States^ the Prov- 
inces and Europe — or as we admire the architectural beauty 
the swan-like proportions of the new ship that lies in the 
ofRngj or of ttie darker sailed craft with flags set at the mast 
head, plowing her way home from distant lands — we should 
stop in gratitude to the men of the past^ to remember that 
not always so peaceful and so safe were these waters. It 
was here that the English fleet under Mowatt, sailed in 1775 
to bombard the town and lay the place in ashes. It was just 
out here, too, under a September sky, in 1813, that the Brit- 
ish man-of-war Boxer had that bloody encounter with, and 
fell a prize to, the American brig Enterprize ; and through 
^ the scuppers of these vessels, mingling with the waters of 
the ocean, ran the blood of both their commanders, Capt, 
Blythe of the Boxer, and Capt. Burroughs of the Entec- 
prise, who fell in the action, and now sleep in peace^ side By 
Bide, in the same graveyard, where rest the remains of a still 
superior naval offlcer, whose memory Portland cherishes, the 
gallant Com. Preble, who commanded at Tripoli, in 1804, 
and by various other services, added glory to the Ameri- 
can flag. In the eastern part of the city can be seen, monu- 
ments to all these brave men — to Blythe, erected by his sup- 
viving officers ; to Burroughs by a passing stranger ; white 
an elegant white marble shaft is over the grave of the hero 
of Tripoli. 

We cannot speak extravagantly either of the beauties or 
business advantages of Portland harbor ; and the people mdy 
congratulate themselves upon their good fortune, and the 
wise foresight of those who laid the foundations of the city up- 
on the best site on the whole coast of Maine. Such a harbor, 
in a location to which we shall refer again, has of late years, 
given a rapidly increasing foreign commerce. We insert 
below a table showing the advance of exports and imports 
from abroad, in various years : 



160 





PORTLAND, 




Years. 
1846, . 
1848, . 
1851, . 
1854, . 


Exports. 
. $595,925 . 
. 623,239 . 
. 716,868 . 
. 3,014,340 . 


Imports. 
. $454,226 
. 616,045 
. 952,347 
. 3,124,676 



We have not the statistics of a later date, but the tendency 
has been onward, till Portland, in point of revenue, is the 
second port in New England, and in the West India trade, 
the first, importing more sugar and molasses than any other 
city in the union. For the accommodation of the commerce 
and other national business, the government has recently 
erected two fine buildings, the new Custom House, a splen- 
did granite building, of the Doric order of architecture, situp- 
ate at the junction of Middle, Exchange and Lime streets, 
and adding much to the appearance of these avenues ; and 
the Marine Hospital, a substantial and commodious edifice, 
occupying a commanding site on an island, some four milea 
from the city. 

Besides its foreign and coastwise trade, Portland has a 
pretty substantial basis, in its manufactures. Its lumber op- 
erations, its ship-building, its sugar-making, its iron works, 
and locomotive building, with various branches of home in- 
dustry and domestic manufactures, that are carried forwacrd 
with a spirit of enterprise and industry honorable to the peo- 
ple, would in a diiferent work than this be worthy of an ex- 
tended notice. But most of all, the rapid growth of 
city — and how rapid that has been may be learned from 
the following figures — is attributable to the extension of 
railways : 

Population. City Valaation. 



1800, . 


. 3,677 . 


, 


1820, . 


. 8.581 . 


. 2,6.?4,4-27 


1830, . 


. 12,601 . 


. 2,757,179 


1840, . 


. 15,218 . 


. 4,054,095 


1850, . 


. 20,819 . 


. 13,364,009 


1855, . 


. 27,000 . 


. 20,502,363 



PORTLAND. 161 

The first road entering the city was the Portland, Saco and 
Portsmouth, completed in 1842, which connects with the 
Eastern, the two cities at the termini of our route, and brings 
Boston and Portland within five hours of each other. Before, 
the land conveyance was in crowded and sickening stage 
coaches, that with jaded horses slowly crept up the hills, and 
as slowly almost, and with quite as much labor, went down 
again, and consequently cut ofJ" most of the travel ; and the 
intelligence that now flashes along the electric wire, with 
the velocity of lightning, moved in the snail-paced mails, 
that made the news old and musty, and placed Portland so 
far from the centre of life and business that it was commonly 
spoken of by strangers, as the place "away down East, 
where the sun rises. '^ Next, it sought connection with the 
vast interior country around it — with the thriving towns and 
fertile farms of the valleys of the Saco, the Androscoggin, 
the Kennebec and the Penobscot — which renders it the cerir 
tral point for trade, and the great depot for full one-third of 
New England; for by junction with other roads, Northern 
Vermont and New Hampshire, and the broad fields and 
arable lands of Maine, make Portland their mart of business. 
But most of all, it found advantage in the construction of the 
Atlantic and St. Lawrence railway, that passes through the 
old settlements, the White Mountains, and the deep forests of 
the North, till it touches the frontier of the country ; and then 
onward till it reaches the St. Lawrence, through which pass 
the waters of one-third the lake surface of the globe ; and 
over that river through the Victoria tubular bridge, now 
building, which as a work of art will be one of the wonders 
of the world, the cars will shortly pass into the city of Mon- 
treal, the old French possession, where the conflict of rival 
races wet the plains of Abraham with blood, and Wolfe and 
Montcalm sunk to their gory graves. 
11 



162 PORTLAND, 

This road is now under lease to the Grand Trunk Railroad 
Company, of Canada, that has a capital of $50,000,000, who 
have undertaken to build a trunkway through Canada, ter- 
minating, as the surveys now do^ on Lake Superior, with the 
intention, if the project shall be feasible, of pushing their 
way forward to the Pacific, that the ends may rest upon the 
two great oceans. They also have branches connecting all 
the large towns and cities with their main trunk. By this 
road Quebec, Montreal, Toronto, and the thriving Red River 
settlements in Hudson Bay territory, are nearer the Atlantic 
than by any other road ; and so, too, Detroit, Chicago, St. 
Louis, Kansas, Nebraska, Oregon and the Pacific, are nearer 
to Portland than to any Atlantic city in the United States. 
This road can transport the products of the Canadas and the 
Western States to the ocean cheaper than any other road, 
and thus Portland is made the outlet of an immense business 
that no man has yet calculated, for none are gifted with 
prophetic vision that can look down the vista of coming years^^ 
and foresee the splendid developments that are to transpire in 
the interior — the yet unknown interior — of the North Amer- 
ican continent. And if the outlet, then, with such a harbor, 
why not the inlet, not alone for foreign manufactures and pro- 
ducts that the interior shall demand, but also of the tide of 
immigration from the Eastern Provinces, from Britain, Ger- 
many, and the North of Europe, that is to sweep over the 
lands from James Bay, now known only to the hunter, down 
to the plateau of inner Mexico, cultivating the prairies, 
building cities upon the rivers and lakes, digging the mines 
from Lake Superior to the Golden Gates of San Francisco, 
covering the hills with vineyards, and the mountain sides with 
the flocks and herds. It was estimated in 1854 that the 
travel to and from Portland by stages, cars and vessels, was 
700,000 ; and if so, who will say that one century hence it 



PORTLAND. 16B 

will not be seven millions'? Il cannot be that God has given 
natural advantages where he will not give a people capable 
of appreciating and improving them; and to us Portland 
seems to have a great future that shall make her the riva and 
the equal of the first class cities of the world. 

But while we have narrated what seemed to us very plain, 
upon entering r ortland, we have said little of the city proper, 
to which we must now turn our attention, and briefly describe. 

From the depot of the Portsmouth, Saco and Portland 
road, we may ride along Commercial street, which is 100 
feet wide, built across the wharves, with shipping and the 
green banks of Cape Elizabeth across the river on the riiiht, 
and on the left the Sugar House, and other manufactories 
and store houses — to the station of the Grand Trunk Railway, 
a mile or so distant. At this Station passengers have halt an 
hour for refreshments. Here we find a passenger station sec- 
ond to none in size and convenience in New England, lighted 
from the roof by a sky light, occupying the entire length of 
the building. It is of brick, 444 feet in length, by 96 feet 
in width ; is arranged with a complete suit of offices, and 
fitted up with every accomodation that could be desired for 
such a purpose. After having refreshed the inner man at the 
bountiful table of Barnum's celebrated Dining Saloon, provided 
for the convenience of passengers, a view of which we pre- 
sent that our readers may know what luxury of taste is 
expended to please the eye, we look round the premises at 
the Freight Depot, 550 feet in length, part of it 75, and the 
remainder 90 feet in width ; another, 450 by 42, connected 
with it by covered passage ways, and several large ware- 
houses upon the wharves, used in connection with lines of 
steamboats; and then proceed to the Observatory, situ- 
ated a short distance from this spot, on Munjoy hill. It is a 
fine structure, 82 feet in height, and elevated 226 feet above 
Xhe water level. The view from the top of the tower is mag- 



164 PORTLAND. 

nificent. In one direction the eye wanders over the blue 
waters of Casco Bay, winding around the emerald green 
islands, presenting a truly picturesque appearance. In 




INTEBIOR VIEW OF BARNUM'8 GRAND TBITNK DINING SALOON. 

another, the eye sweeps over the roofs, cupolas and spires of 
the city proper, while far away in the distance, the white 
dwelling houses of Gorham meet the vision. Away to the 



PORTLAND. 165 

southwest, the ever restless billows of the ocean can be seen 
breaking and foaming along the reefs, or dashing with relent- 
less fury against the bold and rocky precipices of the Cape. 
From the northwest the towering caps of the White Hills rise 
above the intervening forests, as if to mock the beauty below. 
If we are not satisfied here let us go. on to the summit of the 
hill on North street, where may be seen an inland view of 
great variety and beauty, as our artist has represented. 

A walk through any of the broad and well-cleaned streets 
will show us the regularity of the plan, and at the same 
time convince us that the noble elm and shade trees, instead 
of being out of place, lend a subduing and harmonizing in- 
fluence to a business mart, refreshing to the spirits, and add 
to the lines of substantial stores a new beauty and a cheer- 
ful appearance. 

Many splendid edifices have been erected in this city 
within a year or two past. Among the number may be men- 
tioned the new Hotel, now rapidly approaching completion. 
It is a magnificent edifice, of maible front, six stories high, 
and will accommodate over 500 people. It is situated on Mid- 
dle street, near Exchange. The dimensions of the build- 
ing are 190 feet in length and 92 feet in width on the front. 
The estimated cost of the structure is S2T5,000. Among 
the Public Houses, the Freeman House, centrally located, in 
a sightly and quiet locality, on Middle street, a short distance 
from the Atlantic and St. Lawrence station, is one of those 
retreats where the traveller may enjoy himself without being 
subjected to the annoyances of a large hotel, where every 
attention will be paid to his wants. From one end of the 
city to the other, manufactories, warehouses, stores and 
dwellings are constantly going up, and even with this pro- 
gress the demands of business can hardly be met. The 
churches, too, are very fine structures. 



166 



PORTLAND 



The land on which the city is built rises gradually from 
the water side to a cou.^iderable height, so that the buikling& 

11 "''MsmmiaMj/ 



ii 



m 



'Hilf^'il;;. 




ilv^^' 



show one above another, the roof of the new Custom House 



PORTLAND. 167 

and the Hotel towering above all. From many points of the 
city extensive viev^s of the surrounding country may be had, 
on both sides^ making some of the best sites for residences 
that could be selected. Most of the streets are luxuriantly 
shaded by tall, massive trees, which with its princely dwell- 
ings, nestling amid shrubbery and flowers, entitle it to the 
name of " Forest City.'' 

The city is the most healthy in the Union, and its records 
prove that with the exception of Lisbon, it is the most healthy 
in the world. ihis is undoubtedly to be attributed to the 
general cleanliness of the streets, and elevation of land on. 
which it its budt, and to its being washed on every side by 
tide water. Its condition in this respect may be inferred 
from the fact that the average number of deaths annually 
for the past twenty years, has been 1 in 65, while in other 
Atlantic cities it has been 1 in 4o, and in some as low 
as 1 in 30. 

'•'At either end of the city is a promenade, one hundred 
and fifty feet in width, lined with young and thrifty shade 
trees. These promenades are graded into three sections, 
two for walking, and the other for riding, and the succession 
of views developed in passing around them, is scarcely less 
beautiful than those from the observatory," 

Among the private enterprises of the city, it may be well 
to mention one or two of the large number, to show that the 
growth of manufactures has been advancing with the genei'* 
al busmess of the place. The Sugar Establishment, passed 
on the route between the depots, consumes equal to' 40,000 
hogsheads of molasses annually, furnishing employment to 
100 hands, in manufacturing sugar alone. The extent of 
trade thereby created is equal to S500,000 annually, em- 
ploying many vessels between Portland and the West In- 
dies, aad regular packets between Portland a:;d Boston and 



168 PORTLAND. 

New York. The capital employed in this establishment is 
equal to $350,000. 

The Portland Company, principally engaged in building 
locomotives and railway machinery, has a capital invested 
of SI 80,000, and employed in 1854, an average of 335 men. 
This company was established in 1847, for the purpose, 
chiefly, of supplying the equipment of the Portland and 
Montreal Railway. It has proved one of the most success- 
ful enterprises in the country. Up to 1855, this company 
had built ninety Locomotives which maintain the highest 
reputation throughout the country. In addition to every 
description of railway and other machinery, it has built 
steamboat engines, and engines and sugar mills for Cuba. 

The numerous works of a less extended character in va- 
rious parts of the city, appear to be in a thriving and healthy 
condition, displaying an activity which alone would ad- 
vance a community to wealth and permanent prosperity. 
Thie Canadian Steam Company makes Portland its winter 
harbor for five months of the year, and necessarily contrib- 
utes to the welfare of mechanics. 

In literary institutions, in schools, in churches, and in be- 
nevolent associations Portland sustains a high position with 
other New England cities. While she has sought every 
means to advance her business relations, she has not been 
remiss in providing for the higher wants of society ; and but 
few cities can boast of more extended and liberal provisions 
for the intellectual and moral welfare of her citizens. It 
would be a pleasure to speak in detail of the various insti- 
tutions, but our notice has already extended to a greater 
length than we designed, and we will merely add, that 
in enterprise, in promoting improvements to connect 
themselves with distant parts of the country and increase 
their trade, Portland in proportion to its population and 



PORTLAND. 169 

wealth is ahead of any other city in New England. No 
other such place would have undertaken and carried through 
the Atlantic and St. Lawrence railroad ; and it richly de- 
serves its present prosperity and position, with all the great* 
ness that its future promises. 

In closing, we annex a few extracts, taken from a rare work 
of Travels, by the Duke de la Rochefoucault Liancourt, pub- 
lished in 1799, showing more plainly than our brief sketch, 
the condition of Portland in 1795, '"96 and '97 :— 

''I came on Sunday to Portland, and was surprised to find 
the Inns so decent and well kept, in a part of the country so 
remote, and so rarely visited by travellers. The many small 
wooden houses to be seen, being constructed, in no very 
strong or elegant manner, of logs or deals, do not indicate, 
by their exterior appearance, either wealth or cleanliness. 
A European traveller is, therefore, not a little surprised to 
see a number of elegant women come out of these huts, all 
wearing fashionable hats and head dresses with feathers, 
handsome cloaks and the rest of their dress suitable to this. 
Such is the show which these females make every Sunday 
morning when the weather is sufficiently fair to encourage 
them to go to church. The men go equally fine. But those 
females who are prevented from going abroad in the morn- 
ing by their cooking, the washing of their kitchen dishes, 
the milking of the cows and the feeding of the swine, attend 
the church only in the afternoon, and come less solicitously 
dressed out in their finery. They are almost all tall and 
good looking ; some of them are even very handsome." 

"The trade of Portland is carried on in seventy ships, of 
various burthens, all belonging to the town. Many of them 
sail to Europe, though oftener to the Antilles, About twenty 



170 PORTLAND. 

are en imaged in the fishing of cod, which are taken among 
the islands at the mouth of the bay. 

The merchants of Portland are numerous ; but none 
among them possess great capital, as Portland, and the parts 
adjacent, are not equal to the consumption of the cargoes 
which the ships import in return for their exports ; these 
are generally carried to Boston, which is the principal mart 
for foreign commodities. 

The w^ant of money occasions a greater proportion of them 
to be sent to the capital than is for the advantage of the 
place ; and here while the store houses of Portland are 
neglected, the goods which might be bought and sold here, 
at a more reasonable rate, are bought by the people of this 
neighborhood, at an exorbitant price in Boston. 

In 1785, the tonnage of the united townships of Falmouth 
and Portland, amounted to 5340 tons in the foreign trade, 
1628 in the fishing and the coasting trade ; in all, 6969 tons. 
In October. 1775, the tonnage of the ships registered for the 
year, was 8408 tons in the foreign trade ; 5390 in the coast- 
ing trade and fishing ; in all, 13,790 tons. The value of the 
exports for Portland in 1791, 874,804 ; in 1792, S 105, 190 ; 
in 1793, $146,921 ; in 1794, $116,612 ; in 1795, $165,682. 

There is, as yet, no regular market for provisions in Port- 
land. This small though handsome town consists of about 
300 houses which may contain 2,300 souls. The Presbyte- 
rians have here two churches ; the Episcopalians, one. — 
Schools have also been established here, which are said to 
be pretty good. Lots of ground, for building in the town, 
are at a price which may be reckoned high ; and land with- 
in a mile of the town costs $20 an acre. Portland is the 
principal town in the County of Cumberland, which contains 
about 24,000 inhabitants." 



BOSTON TO um, 

OVER THE SAUGUS BRANCH ROAD. 

We start from the Causeway street station, in one of the 
trains running over this branch, and upon the main track,run 
by Somerville, on to the brick yard a few rods from the 
South Maiden Station, when we leave the trunk road, pass 
on a short distance, and halt at the first station of the branch 
road, which is in 

SOUTH MALDEN, 

3 miles from. Boston, 8 miles from Lynn. 

As we have given a sketch oi the history and topography 
of this town, it will be useless for us to refer to it again. 
There are but few houses in this vicinity, and all we find to 
attract our attention is the extensive plain stretching out 
to the left, to the base of the hills. The next station is 

MALDEN CENTRE, 

4 1-2 miles from Boston, 6 1-2 miles from Lynn. 

This is a charming location presenting attractions of un- 
common beauty. The settlement around, wath its neat 
houses and orderly gardens, and the presence of four churcli 
edifices, bearing the marks of architectural skill, with 
stores and other conveniences for the inhabitants, and its 
manufactories within sight, show most conclusively that 



172 SAUGUS BRANCH. 

this portion of the place is thriving and prosperous, and will 
at no distant day become a considerable town. But as the 
stations on the branch are so numerous it will not answer 
for us to tarry long, so we resume our seat, and ere we have 
lost the sound of the bell, we stop at 

MAPLEWOOD, 

5 1-2 miles from Boston, 5 1-2 miles from Lynn, 
A station erected to accommodate that portion of the citi- 
zens of Maiden, who reside in this section of the town. The 
station owes its name to the abundance of Maple trees 
around. The beautiful grove in front of the depot, seems an 
inviting spot for pic-nic parties, and a comfortable place for 
a summer ramble. But a minute or two is consumed in 
skimming over the ground to 

EAST MALDEN, 

e 1-2 miles from Boston, 4 1-2 miles from Lynn, 
The fourth stopping place, on this line, in Maiden, an ac- 
commodation on the part of the railroad corporation that 
should be compensated by a liberal patronage. There is 
nothing here that will induce us to stop, unless we have 
time to walk into the woods upon the hills and enjoy our- 
selves among the giants of olden times. Leaving the town 
of Maiden we pass the line to Saugus, in which we have 
three station houses. The first is 

CLIFTONDALE, 

7 miles from Boston, 3 miles from Lynn, 
Apparently a new settlement, if we may judge by the 
fresh appearance of the houses, nestling among the trees, 



SAUGUS BRANCH. 173 

upon the clifts which abound upon the hill sides. The for- 
rests around are dense, and the scenery wild and pictur- 
esque. A mile further and we reach 



SAUGUS CENTRE, 

9 miles from Boston, 2 miles from Lynn. 

The town of Saugus, prior to 1815, was a part of Lynn, 
called the West Parish. At its incorporation it took the an- 
cient Indian name of Lynn, which has always been retained 
by the river forming its eastern boundary. There are 
in the town extensive salt marshes, covering about one 
seventh of the whole territory. The greater part of the rest 
of the township is rough and uneven, and to a considerable 
extent covered with wood. The land upon the river is gen- 
erally good, well cultivated and productive. The town has 
several villages and numbered at the last census 1.788. It 
is constantly growing both in numbers and in prosperity. 
Its proximity to Boston, and the accommodations of this 
branch road, contribute largely to its growth, by offering to 
merchants and city traders, the best and most romantic lo- 
cations for summer residences at a nominal price, and every 
facility desired for connection with Boston. From this 
station on to 

EAST SAUGUS, 

10 miles from Boston, 1 mile from Lynn, 

We have a good opportunity to observe the serpentine 
course of the river, crossed twice on our way hither, and 
which here at our right furnishes a most excellent power. 
From the hill tops its course through the town presents most 
curious formations. Near this settlement were the celebrat- 



174 SAUGUS BRANCH. 

ed iron works, spoken of in the early history of Lynn. Evi- 
dences of their existence may still be found. After looking 
around the village, which will well repay the lime spent, 
we cross the river again, and in a moment are in Lynn, at 
the station called 

LYNN COMMON, 

11 miles from Boston, 

Near the spacious common, one of the most extensive pa- 
rade grounds in the county, and around which are several of 
the most costly and elegant mansions in the State. 

In passing over this branch we have met some of the most 
romantic scenery that the eye could feast upon ; and al- 
though an extra quarter of an hour has been consumed, we 
have had sufficient pleasure to pay us for its loss. We 
find on this branch a good illustration of the benefits of rail- 
roads, in developing the resources of the land, and in build- 
ing up communities, for at every station there is indisputable 
evidence of the agency of the railway in collecting together 
the settlers around the stations. 

A short distance and we are on the main track and at the 
West Lynn Station, referred to on page 31. 



SALEM TO MARBLEOE ID, 

OVER THE MARBLEHEAD BRANCH. 

Within the past two years the Eastern Railroad Corpora- 
tion, for the better accommodation of this road, and for se- 
curity against accident, have laid an independent track 
across the Mill Pond, at the side of the main trunk, so that 
now no delay is had in waiting for trains. We leave the 
Salem station and ride by the side of the main road to the 
head of the inlet, about a mile distant, when we curve round 
the hill on our left, and running in a south easterly direction 
by the groves of fine trees and green fields and stop at 

FOREST EIYER STATION, 

2 miles from Salem, 2 miles from Marblehead. 

On our left we have a good view of a portion of Salem har- 
bor, which makes in here to the mouth of Forest river, and 
of Salem neck and Winter Island. This manufactory on our 
right is the Forest River Lead Works, and the dwellings 
near by, the residences of those connected with it. Li this 
vicinity are some of the best farms in the State, among 
which is the celebrated "Pickman farm," the most valuable 
in Essex county, and probably the best stocked and highest 
cultivated. It is owned by Doct. G. B. Loring, of Salem, 
who is most ardently devoted to agriculture. Directly after 
leaving this station we approach the '' boulder region/' and 
soon the Rocky Hills of Marblehead appear in sight. Our 



176 MARBLE HE AD BRANCH. 

approach to the town is one of interest. On either side the 
great irregularity of the surface, and the still greater diversity 
of taste displayed in the selection of building lots, attract the 
attention of the stranger. Riding through a portion of the 
territory, by gardens and houses, we arrive at the station in 

MARBLEHEAD, 

(4 miles frora Balem.) 

This town was formerly a part of Salem, It is built upon 
a peninsula about 4 miles in length and 2 miles in breadth. 
The surface is extremely irregular and rocky, elevated above 
the surrounding country. Some authorities give its original 
name as "Marmaracria.'' It has likewise been called '^Mar- 
morcum Promontoriunij'^ — a promontory as hard as marble. 
The earliest settlements were upon the eastern side of the 
town, nearest the harbor. It was incorporated in 1649, 
at which time it contained 44 families, the men being 
generally engaged in the fishing business. We find that 
as early as 1645, '• In consequence of some objecions 
made to Mr. AUerton," an enterprising ''inhabitant of 
Marblehead," he was " requested to move thence." The 
same year the General Court voted '^ that there should be a 
plantation at Marblehead.'"' There are other evidences that 
the place was known, long before its incorporation. Cotton 
Mather, in his Magnalia, relates the following circum- 
stances, concerning the death oi Rev. John Avery, who was 
invited to Marblehead, this year. 

" The divine oracles have told us, ' That the judgments of 
God are a great deep :' and indeed it is in the deep, that we 
have seen some of those judgments executed. 

" It has been remarked, that there miscarried but one vessel 
of all those great fleets which brought passengers into New 



MARBLEHEAD BRANCH. 17T 

Englaad upon the pious and holy designs of the first settle- 
ment ; which vessel also was but a pinnace ; nevertheless 
richly laden, as having in it Mr. Avery. 

'' Mr. Avery, a worthy minister, coming into New England, 
was invited unto Marblehead ; but there being no church 
there, and the fishermen being there generally too remiss to 
form a church, he went rather to Newberry, intending there 
to settle. 

''Nevertheless, both the magistrates and the ministers of 
the country urging the common good, that would arise from his 
being at Marblehead, he embarked in a pinnace, with two 
families, his own and his cousin Mr Anthony Thacher's, 
which, with some others then aboard, made in all twenty 
three souls ] designing in a few hours to have reached the 
port. 

" But on August 14, 1635, in the night, there came on as 
mighty a storm as perhaps was ever known in these parts of 
the world ; a storm which drove the vessel upon a rock, and 
so tore it, that the poor people sat presently up to the middle 
in water, expecting every moment the waves of death to be 
rolling over them. 

" The vessel was quickly broken all to pieces, and almost 
the whole company drowned, by being successively washed 
off the rock ; only Mr. Thacher, having been a considerable 
while tossed hither and thither, by the violent seas, was at 
last very strangely cast alive upon the shore ; where much 
wounded, he found his wife a sharer with him in the like 
deliverance. 

" While these distressed servants of God were hanging 
about the rock, and Mr. Thacher had Mr. Avery by the 
hand, resolving to die together, and expecting by the stroke 
.of the next wave to die, Mr. Avery lifted up his eyes to 
heaven, saying, ' We know not what the pleasure of God is ; 
12 



178 MARBLEHEAD BRANCH. 

I fear we have been too unmindful of former deliverances : 
Lord, I cannot challenge a promise of the preservation of 
my life ; but thou hast promised to deliver us from sin and 
condemnation, and to bring us safe to heaven, through the 
all-sufficient satisfaction of Jesus Christ ; this therefore I do 
challenge of thee,' Which he had no sooner spoken, but he 
was by a wave sweeping liim off, immediately wafted away 
to heaven indeed : being well furnished with those unper- 
ishable things ; whereto refers the advice of the famous 
Duke of Bavaria, ' Hujusmodi comparande sunt opes, qua no- 
hiscum prossunt simul evatare in Naufragio.^ 

^' The next island was therefore called Thacher's Woe, 
and that rock Avery's fall. 

'^ Never forget the memorable swan song, which Avery 
not eight days, but scarcely eight seconds of a minute, be- 
fore his expiration, sang in the gates of heaven." 

Mr. Avery had his wife and eight children on board ; 
Mr. Thacher a wife and nine children. Mr. Thacher, who 
was so miracuously saved, was a brother of Rev. Peter 
Thacher of Sarum, England. He afterwards lived at Yar- 
mouth, where he died at the age of 80. He had two sons 
bora after the shipwreck and before 1640. His nephew 
Thomas, the first minister of the Old South Church in Bos- 
ton, narrowly escaped the calamity of the wreck. He was 
with his uncle at Ipswich, being then a lad of fifteen, but 
preferred to go to Marblehead by land, and so was preserved 
from the dangers of the sea. 

In 1674 the town had grown to a considerable size, the 
rectords exhibiting 114 householders ; the great facilities for 
fishing, making it a place of considerable notoriety. Ten 
years later, the first church in Marblehead was gathered, 
the whole work being countenanced with the presence of 
the Deputy Governor, with five of the assistants, and twenty 



MARBLEHEAD BRANCH. 179 

eiders, with other ministers, and young scholars and many 
others. 

Running down through the history of the town, we find 
much that is uncommon, and strangely in contrast with the 
customs of neighboring settlements. In the diary of Rev. 
Mr. Barnard, the progress of the people for a half century 
exhibits a wonderful cliange both in their social condition 
and in public prosperity. '' Before 1720, there was not a 
carpenter, a tailor, nor mason, nor butcher in the town. 
They had their houses built by country workmen, and their 
clothes made out of town, and supplied themselves with 
beef and pork from Boston, which drained the town of mo- 
ney. There was not one foreign vessel, although the town 
always possessed every advantage for a free and extensive 
navigation. The people contented themselves to be slaves 
to work in the mines, leaving it to the merchants of Salem, 
Boston and Europe to carry off the gains ; by which means 
the town was poor and in debt ; so much were they involved 
to merchants of other places, that very few families, not 
more than twenty, were independent as to their circum- 
stances. They are generally a rude, swearing, drunken and 
fighting crew; but as they increased in numbers, they made 
improvement in social life, in virtue and good morals. Some 
years after the town abounded with artificers, good work- 
men of every description, and the market had a full supply. 
By the middle of the century, the manners of the people 
were so much cultivated as to be remarkable for their civili- 
ties and especially for their hospitality to strangers. There 
were not only gentleman-like families, and pious well be- 
haved people in the town, but the very fishermen rose supe- 
rior to their rudeness of the former generations. When they 
were persuaded by individuals of public spirit to send their 
fish to foreign markets, they soon became conversant with 



180 MARBLEHEAD BRANCH. 

the mysteries of trade ; they soon likewise became sensible 
of the advantage they should reap from it; and while indi- 
viduals grew rich, the town also received the benefit of it. 
From the smallest beginning, Marblehead became one of the 
first trading towns of the Bay. In the year 1776 there were 
between 30 aud 40 ships, biigs, snows and topsail schooners 
engaged in foreign trade.'' 

At the commencement of the Revolutionary war the town 
had become the second in the colony both in population and 
wealth. " As to its numbers and opulence, it swarmed with 
inhabitants, was a pattern of industry, flourished in trade, 
and abounded with wealth." 

During the Revolution the citizens signalized themselves 
above their neighbors, by acts of daring and deeds of valor, 
upon sea and land. This war^ with that of 1812, and the 
embargo had a most serious effect upon the town, for while 
it never recovered from the suffering of the former, the effect 
of the latter annihilated its business. An entire regiment of 
1000 men was furnished from this town, in 1775, a large por- 
tion of whom lost their lives in the service. In the last war 
the frigate Constitution was manned almost exclusively by 
Marblehead men, and 500 of her sons were found in a single 
British prison, at the close of the contest, where most of them 
had remained during nearly the whole war. A good story is 
told of the frigate Constitution, which well illustrates the 
patriotism of the times. In 1814 she was chased into the 
harbor by a British fleet, aiid the weather being foggy it was 
impossible for the citizens of the place to distinguish her sig- 
nals, and it was supposed that she was one of the enemy's 
ships. Rumors instantly spread that the town was to be at- 
tacked. The greatest excitement prevailed. The guns of 
the fort were ready, every man was called to duly, and the 
women actually made ready for a severe fight, and prepared 



MARBLE HEAD BRANCH. 181 

a large quantity of lint to dress the wounds of the injured. 
A messenger was deputed to Salem, and as it was Sunday, 
he entered the church of old Dr. Bentley, the celebrated 
scholar and patriot, mounted the pulpit and informed the 
Doctor of the news. The preacher closed the services and 
told his hearers, that they had served God half of the day, 
and the other half they must ,-erve their country. A com- 
pany was got together, and the Doctor accompanied the men 
to Marblehead. Upon their arrival the mistake was discov- 
ered. These facts need no comment — they exhibit a patri- 
otism and devotion shown by no other town — and the names 
of Glover, of Wormstead, of Mugford^ of Cowell, and oth- 
ers among the gallant officers, will be cherished so long a? 
the remembrance of our struggles endure. 

The history of the town sliows the names of distinguished 
individuals, in every profession of life. Barnard and Bours, 
among her divines. Holyoke, for thirty years President of 
Harvard College, among her professors ; Orne and Gerry, 
among her statesmen ; and Sewall and Story, among her 
lawyers, were lights which time can never dim. 

In 1806, near 90,000 quintals of codfish were exported to 
the single port of Bilboa, and upwards of one hundred ves- 
sels, with about 1000 men, were employed in their catch, and 
at presetit no town on the coast exceeds her in this business. 
Great loss of life has attended this pursuit, the dangers of 
which can only be realized by the mournful tales which are 
yearly told of the loss of large numbers of the bold and 
hardy fishermen. In the great gale of 1844 sixty-five sea- 
men were lost. 

The harbor of Marblehead would be one of the best in 
the country were it not for its exposure to storms, which oft- 
entimes make the anchorage unsafe, though the breakwater, 
built in 1845, greatly improved it. It is formed by a narrow 



182 MARBLEHEAD BRANCH. 

isthmus connecting the town with Great Neck, a point of 
land which runs out about a mile in length, separating the 
waters from Lynn harbor. The Neck is occupied by farms, 
one of which in 1845 afforded the largest comparative profit 
in the State. The Government light house occupies its 
northeastern point. Off the Neck are two small islands call- 
ed •• Tinker's" and '-Ram" island. At the entrance to 
the harbor, which is a mile and a half long and half a mile 
wide, is Fort Sewall. now in a dilapidated condition, but yet 
an interesting relic of former days. The fort is formed by 
two angular batteries of earth and stone, with a slone and 
brick wall in their rear. The barracks were bomb proof. 
In 1772 the population of the town was 6,015, from which 
number it fell to 4.443, the smallest exhibited by any census 
since the first period. It now contains a population of about 
7000, which is rapidly increasing. 

It would be almost impossible for us to convey a correct 
idea of the topographical appearance of this town The best 
description we can give is to call the site a succession of 
boulders, alternating in extent and height, and so connected 
with each other as to convey the impression, to a winter visi- 
tor, that soil sufficient for a large garden plot it would be 
difficult to find. Indeed, as VVhilefield was entering the 
place in autumn, when no verdure was to be seen, he ex- 
claimed, *' Pray where do they bury their deadl '' But yet 
surprising as it may appear, the soil is unusually productive, 
and the crops are not only much larger than usual but ear- 
lier. From many parts of the town a complete view of the 
surrounding territory may be had. This irregularity^ though 
making the streets rough and unmethodical, gives some of 
the most sightly locations for dwellings, and from a distance 
adds a novelty to the general aspect of the town. 

The healthiness of the place is remarkably good. Its 



MARBLEHEAD BRANCH. 183 

elevation and being surrounded with salt water^ contributes 
to the general healthiness of its people, who are robust, free 
from the ordinary ills of a less pure atmosphere, and live lo 
an advanced age. 

The fishing business has not of late years so exclusively 
employed its citizens, though it is now on th§ increase. 
Other branches of industry, less hazardous and perhaps 
more profitable, have been introduced. In 1855, 1080 males 
and 1485 females were engaged in the manufacture of boots 
and shoes, the value of which were $1,020,373 00. In the 
manufacture of cordage about 50 men are employed, while 
many other branches were represented. 

In the cause of education the most liberal provisions are 
made. Its schools are in excellent condition. The academy, 
founded in 1788, where Judge Story was prepared for col- 
lege, is one of the oldest institutions in the State, and is in a 
flourishing condition. Her churches, benevolent associations, 
literary institutions, &c., are all creditable to a moral and 
intelligent community, and mark the advancement of the 
people. 



11 



BEYEELY TO GLOUCESTER, 

OYER THE GLOUCESTER BRANCH ROAD. 

This is one of the most important branches of the Eastern 
Railroad, the longest, and running through a region that is 
last filling np with an intelligent and industrious population. 
It not only brings to the trunk-road large amounts of freight 
and a considerable number of passengers, but is really a 
source of profit in itself: and as the towns along the route 
grow in population and business, the road will advance and 
becor e a material aid to the corporation. 

A short distance from the principal station in Beverly, we 
leave the main track and run off in a northeasterly direction, 
through the fields and gardens to 



BEVERLY CROSSING, 

One mile from the Junction; 13 miles from Gloucester. 

The two or three stations, within the town of Beverly, are 
not permanently established as stopping places, but are 
merely provided for the accommodation of citizens living m 
the vicinity— so that the stranger must not be surprised if he 
finds that the stops do not correspond with the guide. The 
announcement of the conductor however will set him right. 
We go on as though a halt was made at every place laid 
down. The scenery is deversified ; woods, fields and gar- 



186 GLOUCESTER BRANCH. 

dens alternalely appear, and the surface grows more and 
more uneven. 



PRIDE'S CROSSING, 

Four miles from the Junction ; 10 miles from Gloucester. 
In this vicinity several merchants, of Boston and else- 
where, have erected summer cottages, and spend their 
leisure time, during the warm season on the beach. There 
are many fine locations around the station, that oflfer advan- 
tages for any degree of embellishment. Within a few years 
the attractions of this place will draw to it men of taste and 
of quiet habits, who love the pure atmosphere and the cool- 
ing ocean breezes. One mile further on, through a scenery 
that absorbs our attention, we arrive at 

WEST BEACH, 

5 miles from ttie Junction, 9 miles from Gloucester. 
This has become a place of great popularity. It is a part 
of Beverly, formerly a barren, desolate place, occupied by a 
few indolent farmers. Now it is converted into a romantic 
spot, the site of neat cottages and stately mansions, the 
residences of men of refinement and wealth, who come here 
in the summer for comfort and pleasure that cannot he found 
at the crowded beaches of the fashionable watering places. 
The beach extends to 

NEWPORT, 

6 miles from the Junction, 8 miles from Gloucester, 
Is a part of the town of Manchester, occupying the south- 
eastern corner of its territory. The beautiful residences, 
neatly arranged grounds, and the picturesque locations show 



GLOUCESTER BRANCH. 187 

the traveller the character of this sea-side community. The 
charming views from the hills around, or a walk upon the 
beach will well repay the trouble. Misery Island and Baker's 
Island, lay off the shore, and in the distance the whole coast 
of Salem and Marblehead, with portions of the towns appear. 
But the brief stop allows but a bird's eye view. On over the 
bridge which spans the upper extremity of Manchester har- 
bor, we catch another glimpse of an inland and ocean scene 
rarely enjoyed. Here at our left is the village of 

MANCHESTER, 

7 miles from the Junction, 7 miles from Gloucester. 

This town is quite pleasantly located, having a southerly 
declivity to the water, the houses are neat and arranged in 
such a manner as to lend a novelty to the general appear- 
ance of the village. Prior to 1640, it was called Jeffrey's 
Creek, and was a part of Sa!em. In 1645 it began its ex- 
istence as a didiinct corporation, and that year we find it was 
known as a fishing town, which business it continued with 
good success up to the present century. The shallowness 
of the water prevented vessels of any size from approaching 
the wharves, and the inhabitants turned their attention to 
the manufacture of furniture, chairs, &c. Says a recent 
writer, ''the manufacturing business in Manchester is dull 
in comparison to what it once was. Several failures occurred 
a few years ago vhich were a severe drawback on the busi- 
ness of the town. Some of those who were extensively 
engaged in manufacturing furniture have gone to other 
towns, while those who remain do not prosecute the business 
to the same extent as formerly." There are four villages in 
the town, Manchester, on our left; Newport, in which we 
stopped ; North Yarmouth and Kettle Cove. Quite a portion 
of the people are engaged in farming, and a considerable 



188 GLOUCESTER BRANCH. 

number in manufacturing shoes. The surface of the town- 
ship is rocky and uneven, and in many places covered with 
extensive forests. 'I he Magnolia, a low tree, bearing a fra- 
grant flower^ is found here. The population at the last cen- 
sus was 1,864. There are many delightful rides about here. 

The road leading to Essex is full of rural beauties, and the 
seashore itself is in the highest degree wild and picturesque, 
commanding an extensive view of the open sea for miles 
around. The town is remarkably healthy and singularly free 
from pulmonary complaints, there being fewer deaths from 
consumption than in any town on the whole coast. Its schools 
and churches are well sustained, and the inhabitants gener- 
ally are in comfortable circumstances. 

Resuming our journey we glide on by a large boulder on 
our left, through the ledges into the forest, and next stop at 

WEST PARISFT. 

12 miles from the junction, 2 miles frcm Gloucester. 

This is as desolate, wild and rugged looking as one would 
wish to see. There is no village around here, and the few 
inhabitants that occupy the houses in sight are engaged in 
agriculture. This parish was the first formed in Gloucester, 
and its limits embrace a large amount of territory, much of 
which as can be seen, would be as difficult in cultivating as 
a sandy desert. Leaving here we proceed to the bridge, 
stretching across the river, where we have a most excellent 
view of the distant vdlages belonging to the town. A min- 
ute or two and we stop at the new station house in 

GLOUCESTER. 

14 miles from the junction. 
The town of Gloucester comprises four distinct villages. 
The village of Sandy Bay on the eastern extremity of the 



GLOUCESTER BRANCH. 189 

Cape, about five miles from the station. There is no nat- 
ural harbor there, but a pier and breakwater have been con- 
structed for the security of the shipping. The village of 
Annisquam, or Squam, as it is more frequently called, is on 
the north side of the Cape, about the^same distance from this 
point. This village has a safe harbor, which is resorted 
to by fishing craft. Opposite is the famous sand beach, 
from which large quantities of floor sand are procured. 
West parish^ through which we have just passed, is the next, 
and the harbor village, or Gloucester proper, the fourth. 

Cape Ann, as early as 1624, was occupied as a fishing sta- 
tion by the Dorchester Company, of England. A numerous 
tribe of Indians then dwelt on the Cape, In 1625, Roger 
Conant and others removed here, but did not remain long. 
In May 1639 it was incorporated as a "fishing plantation,'' 
and in 1642 another act of incorporation was obtained and the 
place called Gloucester; which name tradition says, was 
from Gloucester, England, whence some of the principal in- 
habitants came. There was a great storm here in 1635, in 
which Mr. Avery, particularly spoken of in Marblehead, 
was lost. The town made considerable progress. In 1638 
there was given to every householder and man upwards of 
21 years of age, who was a native of the town, and bore 
charges to town and county, six acres of land. 112 persons 
received lots. In 1692, that memorable year in the annals 
of mystery, many wild and extravagant stories are told of 
wonderful phenomena seen in Gloucester. "The people 
imagined that they saw armed Frenchmen and Indians run- 
ning about their houses and fields. They fi'equently shot at 
these strange men, when within two or three rods of them, 
and saw them fall; but on coming up they rose and run 
away." The "unaccountable troublers " sometimes shot 
at the town's people, who averred that they heard the bullets 



190 GLOUCESTER BRANCH. 

whiz by Iheir ears; none of the balls, however, took effect. 
One man heard a gun go off and the bullet whiz by him; 
he turned and found it had cut off a pine bush just by liim, 
and lodged in a hemlock tree. Looking about he saw four 
men running towards him with guns on their shoulders. Six 
other men saw where the bullet had cut oft" the pine bush 
and where it lodged in the hemlock : they cut it out and 
shew it to their friends. At another time several men were 
seen striking against a deserted house, and a noise was heard 
as if men were throwiiig stones at a barn. The alarm was 
so great for three weeks that two regimoats were raised, and 
a detachment of sixty men from Ipswich, under command of 
Major Appleton, was sent to their succor. The clergyman 
of the town. Rev. John Emerson, says, " all rationable per- 
sons will be satisfied that Gloucester was not alarmed for a 
fortnight together by Frenchmen and Indians, but that the 
devil and his agents were the cause of all that befel the 
town.'' 

There is but little in the history of the town for a long pe- 
riod onward, of sufficient interest to detail. The people 
chiefly engaged in fishing, were prospered, and the aflairs of 
church and municipality went along in the ordinary channel 
of the times. 

In 1775, on the 8th of August, Capt. John Lindzee, with 
the sloop-of-war Falcon, made a wanton attack upon Glouces- 
ter. The cruiser was in pursuit of two schooners bound into 
Salem from the West Indies. One of them was captured 
off the port, but the other put info Gloucester, and the captain 
of the Falcon sent two barges and a whale boat, well manned 
and armed, to seize her and carry her out. The gallant and 
patriotic inhabitants resisted the attempt, fired upon the 
bargemen after they had boarded.the schooner, killed three 
and wounded the lieutenant in command, who thereupon 



GLOUCESTER BRANCH. 19l 

returned to the man-of-war. '•'Upon this/- says the excited 
narrator, who probably participated in the action, " Lindzee 
sent the other schooner and a small cutter to attend him, 
well armed with orders to lire upon the damned rebels 
wherever ihey could see them, and that he would in the 
meantime cannonade the town. Ue immediately lired a 
broadside upon the thickest settlements, and stood himself 
with diabolical pleasure to see what havoc his caimon might 
make. '' Now," said he, " my boys, we will aim at the 
damned Presbyterian church. Well, my brave fellows, one 
shot more and the house of God will fall before you." While 
he was thus venting his hellish rage, and setting himself as 
it were against heaven, flie Almighty was on our side — not a 
ball struclc or wounded an individual person, although they 
went through our houses in almost every direction when 
filled with women and children ; under God, our little party 
at the waterside performed wonders, for they soon made 
themselves masters of both the schooners, the cutter. The 
two barges and the boat, and every man in them, and all that 
pertained to them. In the action, which lasted several 
hours, we lost but one man — two others wounded, one of 
whom is since dead, the other very slightly wounded. We 
took the man-of-war's men, thirty-five, several were wounded 
and one since dead. Twenty-four were sent to head quarters 
— the remainder being impressed from this and the neigh- 
boring towns, were permitted to return to their friends. 
Next day, Capt. Lindzee warped off with but half his men, 
never a prize, boat nor tender, except a small skiff the 
wounded lieutenant returned in." Upon receiving intelli- 
gence of this attack, Major Magaw, with a battalion of Con- 
tinental riflemen, was immediately ordered from Cambridge 
to Gloucester, for the protection of the place, and, a few 
days after his arrival, he reported : *' The inhabitants have 



192 GLOUCESTER BRANCH. 

nearly completed a small fort, to mount six nine pounders ; 
their spirit seems equal to their abilities." 

During the revolutionary war, and down through the 
struggles of the present century, Gloucester performed her 
duty in a patriotic manner. We might give evidence of this, 
but one extract from the Salem Register, is all we can find 
room for.* " September 8, 1814, about 2 o'clock, three barges 
from the British frigate Tenedos, with about sixty men, went 
into Sandy Bay, surprised the garrison at the small fort at 
that place, (consisting of only ten men, with one eighteen 
and three six pounders,) spiked the guns, and took the men 
on board their barges, before the alarm could be given ; but 
five of them jumped overboard and escapad to ihe shore — 
so that only live were carried otl". By this time some of the 
inhabitants had collected, and began to ring the bell at the 
Meeting House to give the alarm, when a carronade was dis- 
charged from one of the barges towards the Meeting House 
wl^ch did not reach it, and a second was fired with a double 
charge, which started the wootl-ends of the barge, and she 
immediately filled. Her crew made for the shore, and thir- 
teen of them (among whom were a sergeant of marines and 
four privates,) were made prisoners, but the commander of 
the barge (a Lieutenant) and seven or eight men, made their 
escape, took a small fishing boat, and probably returned to 
the frigate. None was wounded on either side. The garri- 
son consisted of a part of Captain Haskell's Gloucester com- 
pany of militia. The guns were not injured and were again 
mounted at the Fort. The barge had on board a carronade, 
and a number of muskets, pistols, &c., which together with 
the boat, were saved The boats were piloted in by a Cape 
And fisherman, who, it is said, had been captured by the 
frigate and compelled to go in with them."' Like all the 
towns in this vicinity, at the conclusion of the difiiculties, 



GLOUCESTER BRANCH. 193 

she was prostrate, and had not recovered for years after- 
wards. 

. Gloucester, or the Harbor, is finely located on the south 
side of the Cape, and is compactly built. Opposite, on what 
is called Eastern Point, a point of land making out by the 
town, protecting it from the northwest^ is East Gloucester 
It is one of the most beautiful places along the coast, and 
when visited in the summer, no town can more favorably im- 
press the stranger. It is not very regularly laid out, most of 
the streets running to accommodate the irregularity of the 
sea shore, but yet they are sufficiently straight to show to 
good advantage, and to bring most of the dwellings on an 
angle with each other. The town, within a few years past, 
has acquired celebrity as a watering place. There are loca- 
tions in the immediate vicinity of the compact portions of the 
town, that cannot be surpassed, in point of healthiness and 
attraction — spots retired from the bustle of business, with 
fine beaches for bathing, splendid views of town and harbor, 
and fine rambles in the back ground. 

There are many eminences about here from which grand 
prospects may be obtained. Beacon Hill and Governor's 
Hill afford the most extended views of the Atlantic ocean, 
with the various descriptions of vessels and steamers passing 
out and in from the harbor of Boston. These views by 
the aid of a good glass, embrace Ipswich Bay, Portsmouth 
and Newbury port, and a vast extent and amount of interest- 
ing scenery, making as a whole a panorama unsurpassed in 
the world. 

Gloucester has rapidly increased within a few years past. 
In population it cannot fall short of 10,000, making it the larg- 
est town in the State. Last year there were upwards of one 
hundred houses erected, and this year the number will be 
larger. In the fisheries she stands the first in the world. 
13 



1^4 GLOUCESTER BRANCH. 

and in foreign commerce she employs a large capital in car 
goes, vessels and capital, and ranks the third in importance 
in Massachusetts, and the sixth in New England. In 1856 
there were 203 arrivals from foreign ports — 56 foreign ves- 
sels and 147 American. The following were among the 
importations : — 

3.212.926 lbs. sugar, I 42.218 cords wood, 
501.656 g. molass., | 861.923 feet lumber. 

The tonnage of her vessels was 30 744. Number of ships 
18, schooners 320. The return of her fishing vessels was 
68.000 bbls. mackerel, 98.000 quintals of fish, and 25.000 
lbs. halibut. The fishing business employed a capital of 
$1,200,000. The statistics for the present year will exceed 
these at least twenty per cent. This business gives employ- 
ment to a large number, and supplies our navy with some of 
its best seamen. With one of the best harbors in the world, 
with the means of extending their business to any point, 
there is no reason why this town may not grow in commer- 
cial importance to take a high position among our cities. 
But there are other branches of business which occupy her 
people. In small manufactures, in mechanical trades, she 
is not behind her neighbors ; and all around the town are 
evident marks of a progress that will not stop until it has 
done something toward developing the advantages of the 
place. The taste displayed in her public buildings, in church 
edifices, in school houses, in the town house, and above all 
in the excellent custom house and post office, show a regard 
for the future commendable, and encouraging to all. 

It would be pleasant, did time permit, to extend our jour- 
ney to the extensive granite quarries of Rockport, (formerly 
a part of Gloucester, incorporated in 1840,) where most of 
the stone used in this region is obtained, and ride along by 
the sea coast with its innumerable points, and coves and 



GLOUCESTER BRANCH. 195 

beaches, by the little villages, nestline: in the rocky beds, or 
up to " Squam Common/' as it is called, to see the rocking 
stone, weighing over a hundred tons, so poised that a child 
can rock it, or to " Dogtown Commons," an area of several 
isquare miles in the interior and higher grounds of the Cape, 
so turaultuously heaped with rocks as not to afford sustenance, 
nor even footing for any useful animal, and to other points of 
interest which abound here, but we must leave the pleasant 
town, with its intelligent, its social, its industrious people, 
who lack in nothing, if they have determination, to raise 
themselves to an eminence that will give to the Cape a char- 
acter above that she enjoyed in the earliest history of our 
Commonwealth. 



AMESBURY BRANCH. 

This commences at East Salisbury, and runs up, on the 
summit of the hills, that make the northerly bank of the 
Merrimac river. The scenery, after we pass from this station, 
possesses no features attractive to the traveller. Woods and 
lield^ and now and then a farm house, with its well cultivated 
patches, trim and neat barns and fences, and happy chil- 
dren playing around, pass before us. We soon arrive at 

SALISBURY POINT, 

3 miles from the junction, 1 mile from Amesbury. 

The pait of Salisbury called the Point, stretches upon a 
tongue of land between the Merrimac and Powow rivers, 
that slopes to the Merrimac, which here widens to a beautif- 
ful bay, and is one of the loveliest spots in creation, where 
formerly ship-building, and those trades connected therewith, 
were carried on, but which now sleeps quietly with its head 
upon the hill and its feet washed by the gentle waters. It is 
one of the most pleasant spots in Christendom ; and we are 
glad to see and learn that the enterprise and spirit of other 
days is awakening the industrial energies upon its shore; 
and the people, behind none in morality, intelligence and 
economy — the true foundation for prosperity — are alive to 
improvement. 

This, with the Mills Village, and East Salisbury, spoken of 
on page 98, comprises the whole township. Leaving the 
manufacturing interests, half of which are in Amesbury, to 



198 AMESBURY BRANCH. 

be spoken of in that place, we will refer to its principal oc- 
cupations. Next to the mills, which by far employ the largest 
number, the manufacture of leather is a considerable busi- 
ness. The several tanneries and currying establishments 
give work to quite a number. Shoe making is also pursued 
to a considerable extent. Next after leather and shoes, is 
the building of vessels and boats. Salisbury was once noted 
for the high character of its ships — no better were launched 
anywh*ere. Large freighting ships and even frigates have 
been built here ; and twenty years ago there were perhaps 
« hundred carpenters in the town. On the Point-shore the 
road was always full of timber, and the axes were swinging 
almost within reach of each other from one bridge to the 
other ; and now there is not a place in the county that could 
build a better vessel, or one so cheap. The putting up of a 
couple of 1000 ton ships at the Point, for which they have 
plenty of capital and workmen, instead of two 40 ton boats^ 
would make a great difference in the place each year. 

There are some branches of manufactures, such as a sash 
wnd door factory, that can employ 15 hands ; three coop- 
ers' shops, with 8 workmen, that manufacture 1800 casks a 
year; four wheelwrights' shops, with 9 hands; three soap 
'and candle factories, with 6 hands ; two tin ware sliops, 
with 6 workmen, and a glue factory with 4 workmen. — 
There is also one manufactory for making felt hats, that 
gives work to quite a large number of men and women. Its 
gea-faring is principally confined to fishing. It has no for- 
eign commerce, though it furnishes some captains and men 
for other ports ; its coastwise business is confined to two or 
three small vessels. Its farms are generally good ; not equal 
to those of Newbury or West Newbury or Andover and Dan^ 
rers, but yet yielding well for the labor bestowed; and par- 
ticularly has it abundant resources for hay. 



AMESBURY BRANCH. 199 

The above comprise most of the industrial pursuits and the 
avails thereof in the town. There are some points in which 
Salisbury compares very favorably with her neighbors; and 
especially in this — she has an intelligent, moral, industrious 
and frugal population. If there are no great establishments 
for labor, they are always employed about something. If 
there are no very rich men there, neither are there many 
poor ones. If the town does not make a great display, it does 
not have heavy taxes ; and if individuals do not generally 
earn great amounts, as in some other adventurous places, 
they have no great demands for money ; for there is not a 
town in the Commonwealth where a man can live so com- 
fortably or so pleasantly on the same income, as he can there. 
Five thousand dollars is as good an estate on the north side 
of the river as fifteen thousand dollars is on the south, and 
that is about equal to $50,000 in Boston. Upon the whole, 
therefore, we doubt, if the quiet enjoyment of life is desir- 
able, whether any town is to be preferred to it. 

From this on the scenery changes, and becomes most 
charmingly picturesque. Hill and valley, forest and field, 
with the villages distant and near, are brought within the 
view, and on our left, close by, runs the beautiful Powow, 
through the valley, in its serpentine course. But we are cut 
off from its further enjoyment, for here we are at the station 
in 



AMESBURY, 

4 miles from the junction. 

This town, at its incorporation, in 1668, was named Alms- 
bury, as appears from the old records, after a town in Wilt- 
shire, England. It was originally a parish in Salisbury, and 
called Newtown to distinguish it from Salisbury Oldtown, 



200 AMESBURY BRANCH. 

which is opposite Newburyport. For farming it is a better 
township than Salisbury : it has better land, and is generally 
better cultivated. Its surface is rather uneven, and upon the 
gentle acclivities of its hills are some of the finest patches of 
soil in the county. Some of its high land, as Whittier, Bear, 
and Powow hills, give extensive prospects, and with its warm 
valleys, its ponds, and its streams, the scenery is withal rath- 
er romantic and beautiful. 

Like most of our towns, it is subdivided into villages. It 
has the Ferry, that takes its names from the ancient ferry 
from Newbury, in use before the Merrimac was spanned by 
bridges, located where the serpentine Powow unites with the 
Merrimac ; its Mills village where the factories are, and its 
West Parish or Jamaica, that has recently had a more rapid 
growth than any other section, from the increase of carriage 
manufactories. It has been proposed several times to form a 
new town, taking the Mills village, the Ferry and Salisbury 
Point, which together would give a population as large as 
either of the towns has now, and would be more compact and 
homogeneous ; but old attachments have thus far prevailed 
over the new idea. 

Formerly, the Ferry was a place of considerable trade and 
ship-building, and to some extent of ship-owning; and with 
the building of ships were the other necessary branches of 
trade, such as iron-working, mast and sail-making. It was 
here, in 1773, when the great tornado along the river, from 
Salisbury Point to Haverhill, swept all before it for the space 
of a mile wide, that two vessels were lifted from their blocks 
and carried through the air twenty-one feet; and a sail loft in 
which was a Capt. Smith of Beverly, was blown down, the 
pieces going in every direction, and the Captain picking 
himself up ninety-four feet from the sill, with one of his legs 
broken. That was one of the severest hurricanes experienc- 



AMESBURY BRANCH. 201 

ed here since the seUleraeiit of the ccuntry. A hundred and 
fifty buildings were levelled to the earth, trees were uprooted, 
boards and planks were whirled through the air, and the river 
rolled up into heaps, as though it would swallow up the af- 
frighted people upon its banks. Ship-building is nearly done 
there now, only one person being engaged in the business. 

From the Ferry, you may turn to the left, following the 
Merrimac over one of the prettiest drives in the world, or to 
the right, keeping in sight the crooked Powow, as it creeps 
through the meadows, till you come to the Mills. If the lat- 
ter, you pass the site of the old Puritan meeting-house, where 
almost two hundred years ago the gospel was dispensed, and 
of the old Academy, on to Powow Hill, one of the most 
sightly spots in this whole region, and which is often visited 
by strangers from distant parts, for the grand view it affords 
of the surrounding country. Standing upon this hill, in a 
clear day, the ocean is spread out before you, with the head- 
lands; such as Boar's Head and Cape Ann ; and the islands, 
as the Isles of Shoals and Plum Island ; while the beaches at 
Hampton and Salisbury, the rivers — the Merrimac winding 
down to the ocean, and the little Powow, that bends at 
the base of the hill in the form of spectacles, and the ponds, 
bright sheets of silvery water, are all in view. Bordering 
the horizon, on all sides but the water, are distant hill? in 
Maine, New Hampshire and Massachusetts; and within 
reach of the eye are a multitude of towns and villages, in 
which may be counted some twenty-five or thirty churches. 
Looking southeasterly, there is as fine a panoramic view as 
can be obtained anywhere. Newburyport with its spires, 
cupolas, tree-lined streets, smoking factories, and beautiful 
shops, is so spread out by the side of the river that almost 
every house can be be distinguished. Then the meadows 
open away down to the mouth of Ipswich river, where the 



202 AMESBURY BRANCH. 

light houses are seen. Inside of these are the woo<liands, 
fields and hills; and outside, the waters of the bay, with the 
rocks of Cape Ann rolling back the waves of the Atlantic, 
and the villages that nestle in th- coves upon its northern 
shore. As we were spending an hour there recently, a gen- 
tleman came up the hill, who had visited twenty -four states 
of this Union, the Canadas, and a considerable portion of 
Europe, who yet affirmed that this was the finest view he 
had ever seen, and that he often came here to enjoy scenery 
more delightful than had elsewhere greeted his vision. 

No great can be said of the beauty of the Mills ; the land 
is uneven and the streets are irregular, but it is a busy, thrif- 
ty village, where are located the half dozen Woolen Factories, 
the works of the Salisbury Manufacturing Company. The 
village is on both sides of the river, and their Works are 
partly in Salisbury. The Powow is here a narrow and rapid 
stream, that in the space of fifty rods falls seventy feet, over 
five dams. It was early seen that its power was valuable, 
and in the last century it was used in the manufacturing of 
mechanical and agricultural tools, which were extensively 
made in connection with a smelting furnace here. Here, 
too, Jacob Perkins first set up his machinery for cutfing and 
heading nails, about sixty years ago. The water was some- 
what uncertain in summer, and Kimball's Pond was dammed 
for a reservoir, and more than a hundred years since a canal 
was cut therefrom to the river — partly tunnelled under a 
hill — to supply any deficiency. 

The first factories were built — those of the Amesbury Com- 
pany—in 1822, with a capital of $200,000. More recently 
the companies have united under the name of the Salisbury, 
and have a capital of $661,000. For many years their oper- 
ations were profitable — they were the best conducted Woolen 
Works of the country, and under successful management. 



AMESBURY BRANCH. 203 

they not only turned out the best flannels and satinets in the 
market, and had the best operatives, most of whom were 
born in the vicinity, or were the first class of English and 
Scotch immigrants^ and the stock kept up 40 per cent, above 
par. 

The South and West Parishes are ihe great places in this 
county, for the manufacture of carriages and horse-"fixings " 
The carriage factories, twenty in number, employ 300 
handS; and the annual value produced is S300,000. The 
making of carriage wheels, &c , employs 30 more, and a 
capital of $30,000 ; and the value of springs, axletrees, har- 
nesses and collars, is put down at $15,000 a year additional. 
Among the other branches of industry, are two tanning and 
currying establishments, that employ 11 hands and tan 40CM) 
hides a year ; and boot and shoe making to the value of 
$30,000 annually, which employs according to the Assess- 
ors returns last year, 54 males and 40 females : probably it 
does many more than that. 

These pursuits, with farming, are the industrial reliance 
of the people, who are stated in Mr. Newhall's Essex Memo- 
rial, to ' belong to the productive class ; very few being 
raised above the necessity for personal exertions. All are 
active and industrious, readily find employment, and com- 
mand good wages. They have been distinguished for their 
zeal in the cause of temperance, and there has not been, for 
many years, a single licensed grocer in the town.' It was 
in Amesbury that Hon. Josiah Bartlett, a signer of the Dec- 
laration of Independence, and afterwards Governor of New 
Hampshire, was born and studied medicine. Many of his 
descendants live there now. The most distinguished person 
now residing in the town, is the Quaker poet, philanthropist, 
and editor, John Greenleaf Whittier — a man of heaven's no- 
blest make, as modest as he is noble, whom no one can see 



204 AMESBURY BRANCH. 

without perceiving the great soul of manhood there is in 
him, and whom none can know but to respect and love. It 
is fame enough for any town to have been the residence of 
John G. Whittier — and centuries hence Amesbmy may be 
visited by pilgrims and travellers from all parts of the world, 
who shall seek out the spot where lived, and where lies, the 
Burns of America — one having all the virtues and all the 
genius, without the failings of the Scotch poet, whom he so 
much resembles. 



FANCY GOODS, 



D. P. IVES & CO., 

83 MUk Street, 

IMPOETEES OF 

FINE CUTLERY, 

Fans, Accordeons, Brushes, Combs, 

AND EVERY VARIETY OF 

SIBBGT 7BOU THB BSST HAKUVAOTirBBBS IIT 

England) France and Germany. 



D. P. IVES & CO. 

83 Milk, Corner Congress Street, 

1B®§1F®E1* 



ESTABLISHED IN 1824. 



GEO. R. DAVIS & BROTHER, 




Blank Book Manufacturers, 

AND DEALERS IN 

PAPER HANGINGS: 

53 Exchange St,, Portland. 



From our long experience and extensive stock, we are enabled to 
offer to the trade in this state, our goods at LOWER PRICES 
than any other house. All the various SCHOOL BOOKS 
used in this state, at the publishers' lowest cash prices, and in any 
quantity. 

LAW, NAUTICAL, CLASSICAL AND MEDICAL BOOES, 

(new editions,) constantly on hand and at lowkst prices. All 
miscellaneous books received as fast as issued from the press. 

BLANK BOOKS 

of our own manufacture having received the highest premium — a 
SILVER MEDAL— at every Mechanics' Fair held in this state, 
we are enabled to offer a better Blank Book than can be found at 
any other establishment in this market, from the smallest Memo- 
randum to the largest Folio Ledger, warranted and paged. 

ROOM PAPERS, 

of every variety and price, from the lowest to the best quality, and 
in any quantity, from 1 to 20,000 rolls. 

BORDERS, FIRE-BOARDS & CURTAINS. 

In soliciting the Trade of this state to our stock of goods, we 
would add that it will be our pleasure to meet the wants of every 
customer in our line. We are agents for WHEELER & WIL- 
SON'S SEWING MACHINES, warranted and sold at manufac- 
turers' prices. 

N. B.— No charge for boxes, packing or trucking. 

GEO. R. DAVIS & BRO., 53 EXCHANGE ST. 



PAPER HANGINGS. 



S. H. GBEOORT & CO., 

IMPORTERS AND MANUFACTURERS, 
Offer a most extensive assortment of 

PAPER HANGINGS, 

Jfiwtoarlr prints, ^irkts, fc 

At Wholesale or Eetatl, on tlie most reason- 
able terms. 

23 Sc 25 Court Street, 
BOSTON. 



Merchants will find among our stock a fine 
selection of low priced Goods, adapted to their 
trade. 

S. H. GREGORY. C. W. ROBINSON. 



A. WILLIAMS & CO.. 

100 WASHINGTON STREET, 

BOSTON. 

THE TRADE SUPPLIED WITH BOOKS, PERIODICALS 
AKD NEWSPAPERS. 

Agents for Harper & Brothers' Publications. 

The Trade supplied at publishers' prices. 
AGENTS FOR THE PUBLISHERS ; AND 

Subscriptions Received for 

HUNT'S MERCHANTS' MAGAZINE, 

KNICKERBOCKER, 

BLACK^VOOD AND THE FOREIGN 

QUARTERLIES, 

SIELIMAN'S JOURNAL, 

RANKING'S ABSTRACT, 

BIBLIOTHECA SACRA, 

AMER. JOURNAL MEDICAL SCIENCE, 

HARPERS' MONTHLY, 

GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK, 

BRAITH^WAITE'S RETROSPECT, 

LONDON LANCET, 

PUTNAM'S MONTHLY, 

PETERSON'S NATIONAL MAGAZINE, 

GRAHAM'S MAGAZINE. 

LONDON DAILY TIMES, 

LONDON ILLUSTRATED NEWS, 

PUNCH, 

ILLUSTRATED TIMES, 

SPECTATOR, 

BELL'S LIFE, 

L'lLLUSTRATION, 

EXAMINER, 

EUROPEAN TIMES, 

EVENING MAIL, 

ART JOURNAL. 

LLBBAEIES AND CLUBS SUPPLIED 
AT A REDUCTION FROM REGULAR PRICES. 



Window Shades & Curtain Materials 

-WHOIiTSSALS AND RETAIL. 




G. L. & J. B. KELTY, 

170 "WASHINGTON STREET, BOSTON. 

J^fanufacturers and Importers of 

CURTAIN mATERIALS, 

SUCH AS 

Satin Delaine, English Damasfc German 
Damask Cornices, Bands, Pins, &c. 

Persons wanting these Goods can buy from first hands, and save 
all commissions by purchasing as above. 

KELTY'S IMPROVED METALLIC EIXTURE, FOR SHADES, 

SUPEEIOE TO ALL OTHERS. 

SHADES FOR STORES, CHURCHPJS, &C., MADE 
TO ORDER. 




HALE & HORTON'S 

VENTUATOB; 

OR 

CHIMNEY CAP. 

For removing Vitiated Air 
FROM Public Halls, School 
Houses, Churches, and other 
Buildings, and for the cure 
OF Smoky Chimneys. 

The subscriber manufactures and keeps 
c'lnstuntly on hand a complete assortment 
of this celebrated Ventilator, of sizes adapt- 
ed to all classes of Dwellings, School Buildings, Factories, Public 
Hiil's, Churches, Railroad Ca'is, Chimney Flues, &c.; Avhich he ispre- 
parcd to furnish at the lowest price. A liberal discount will be made 
to dealers. State, County and Town rights wi 1 be disposed of to those 
desirous of purchasing, at fair rates. Also, Shop right-^, or rights to 
manufaciure for retail trade, maj^ be obtained by addressing the sub- 
scriber. We warrant this to be the most perfectly operating Ventila- 
tor now manufactured, and for the cure of smoky chimneys it is com- 
pletely successful. Circulars describing this Ventilator, will be sent, 
postpaid, by addressing the subscriber. 

MOSES H. HALE, 
No. 48 MERRIMACK ST., NEWBURYPORT. 

HANSOM & hall, 153 and 155 Blackstone st., Agents in Boston, 

MOSES H. HALB, 

48 Merrimack st., Newburyport. 

Dealer in Mot Air Furnaces, Cooking Ranges, Cooking, I'arlor, Office 
and Slioj) Stoves. Patent Veniilators, Registers, Copper, Brass andiron 
Cistern Pumps, Copper Boilers, Boiler, Asli and Oven Mouths, Funnel 
Thimbles, Iron Sinks, Flatirons, Wire Cloth, Coal Hods, Shovels, Po- 
kers, Stove Brushes, Tin, Sheet Iron and Copper Ware,JFunnel, &c. 

All kinds of metallic roofing done in a workmanlike manner, and 
warranted. All orders promptly attended to, and satisfaction given in- 
all cases. 



D. B. BROOKS & BROTHER, 

Succossors to John P. Jewett & Co., 
OlFer to the Trade and Public at the lowest prices 

School and Miscellaneous Books, 

Stationery, Artists' Materials, Wrapping Papers. Agents for 
Dawson & Warren's clebrated Gold Pens. Blank Books manu- 
factured to order. Agents for 




Poster's Patent Pencil Sharpeners, and for tlie Waltham School Crayons. 

Manufacturers of Brook's celebrated Impression Paper. Sheet 
Music and Musical Instruments of every description. 




Agents for PRINCE'S MELODEONS, at factory prices. IN- 
STRUMENTS To KENT. 
SIGN OF THE MAMMOTH BOOK, 193 Essex St., SALEM. 



SAMUEL P. COBB, 

DEALER IN 

REPAIRING AND TUNING 

Of Organs, Pianos, Melodeons, Accordeons and other Musical in- 
struments, carefully attended to, on reasonable terms. 

Exchange Buiidmgf, No. 6 Pleasant Street., 

PORTSMOUTH, N. H. 



BATTIS & BROWN, 

'manufacturers and importeI'S op 

And dealers in all kinds of Leaf and Manufactured Tobacco. 

No. 11© Berby St., SAI.EM. 

CSign of the Scottish Chief.) 

JAMES H. BATTIS. WILLARD H. BROWN. 

ADAMS, RICHARDSON & CO., 

IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN 

FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC 

MANUFACTUREBS' AGENTS FOR THE SALE OP 

OtJT NAILS, WHITE LEAD, SHEET LEAD, LEAD PIPE, IRON 

SAFES, and FAIRBANKS' PATENT PLATFORM SCALES, 

NO. 207 ESSEX STREET, SALEM. 

JOSEPH ADAMS, C M. RICHARDSON, H E. JOCELTN. 

E. H. CHAMBEIRLAIN, 

Dealer in 

Hosiery, Gloves, Yarn, JFancj Goods & Embroideries, 

No. 236 Essex Street, Salem. 
HUMPHREY COOK, 

Dealer in 

HATS, CAPS, FURS, GLOVES, UMBRELLAS, VALISES, 

Carpet Bags, .... jjfo. 233 Sssex street, Salem. 



FACTORY AT EDGE WORTH, MASS. 




NEWCOMB & M'FHAII, 

166 4&. 168 

WASHINGTON STREET, 

® ® ® IS ® ir @ 

Importers and Manufacturers, 

OFFER A VEET COMPLETE ASSORTMENT OF 
FRENCH, ENGLISH AND AMERICAN 

AT WHOLESALE & BET AIL; 

And from their facilites can safely promise inducements which 
will challenge all competition. 
N. NEWCOMB. Jr. JAS. A. McPHAIL. 



MANUFACTURER AND DEALER IN 

f oolimg §km%, portrait tl ^ ittit w Jframes, 

Constantly on hand, iu great variety of patterns , GILDED, ROSE 
WOOD, BLACK WALNUT, and other mouldmgs for PICTURE 
FRAMES, LOOKING-GLASS PLATES. PICTURE GLASS, PIC- 
TURE CORD AND TASSELS, VARNISH FOR PICTURES AND 
PICTURE FRAMES, EXTRA DEEP GOLD LEAF, and a great 
variety of French, English and German LITHOGRAPHS AND EN- 
GRAVINGS, plain and colored. Old frames of all kinds re gilded. 

No. 291 ESSEX STREET, (MECHANIC HALL,) 

SALEM, MASS. 

LOWELL & SENTER, 



Whim MAR 



K 



And Dealers in 

Waltzes, €!]r0U0mrfa5, l^torirg m\^ im\q ^mU. 

No. 64 EXCHANGE STREET, 
PORTLAND, MAINE. 

ABNER LOWELL, WILLIAM SENTER. 

MOSES OOLMAN'S 




5 Temple st., Newburyport. 



''^ 



COACHSS at all hours for Bailroad Depots, Funerals, 
"Weddings, Parties, &c. E. C. BARi£EK, Driver. 



W. SNELUS 

No. 208 Essex Street, Salem, 

(Opposite the Market.) 



The largest, and longest established, containing three times the 
number and variety of specimens of any Rooms in the County. 

THE H ALLOTYPES 

— beautiful Colored Portraits, recently introduced, are the " Ne 
Plus Ultra" of the Photographic Art, rivalling the best Oil or 
Ivory Painting. 

THE MELAINOTYPE, 

—also a new Picture which takes the place of the Ambrotype, and 
is much superior to it^ 

PHOTOGRAPHS 

—taken by a new Apparatus, more than twice the size of any in 
this city. Common Daguerreotypes and other Pictures, copied by 
this process, up to the size of life, put on Canvas and colored 
like a Portrait. The best Artists employed to color. 



Jfrte fa f isi 



LYMAN, MARRETT & CO., 



AND- 



GOfflmSSM MERGEAIITS, 



DEALERS m 



Corner Commercial Street and Long Wharf, 

OAK STREET 

LIVERY STABLE, 

B Y 

CHARLES SAGER. 



mts mii Carriages, 

THE VERY BEST TO BE FOUND IN THE 
CITY OF PORTLAND. 



usie 10OES 




THE UNDERSIGNED OFFER FOR SALE THE FOLLOWING MU- 
SIC BOOKS, BY THE HUNDRED OR DOZEN COPIES. 
AT THE LOWEST PRICES. 

THE THANKSGIVING, a Collection of Sacred Music for 
the Choir, School, and Family Circle, just published by I. B. 
Woodbury, author of the Dulcimer, &c. 

THE JUBILEE. A new collection, just published, by W. B. 
Bradbury, author of the Shawn. 

THE SANCTUS. A complete collection of Sacred Music, 
for all denominations. Just published by Edward Hamilton. 

THE KEY STONE COLLECTION. By A. N. Johnson. 

THE ANTHEM DULCIMER, or New York Collection of Sacred Masic . 

THE CYTHARA. Anthem Edition. A Collection of Sacred Music. 

LIBER-MUSICUS ', or New York Anthem Book. 

THE NEW LUTE OF ZION. TEe Standard Collection of Sacred Musie 
for the M. E. Church. 

THE FAMILY CIRCLE GLEE BOOK. By Elias Howe. 

THE COLUMBIAN GLEE BOOK. By L B. Woodbury. 

THE CHORUS GLEE BOOK. 

THE COTTAGE GLEE BOOK, and TEMPERANCE LYRE. 

THE SONG-CROWN. A New Collection of Glees, Quartetts, etc 

THE SINGING SCHOOL ; or Music Teacher's COMPANION. 

THE SABBATH BELL. By Geo. F. Root. 

TH» SHAWN. By Bradbury & Hastings. 

THE HALLELUJAH By LoweU Mason. 

THE CARMINA SACRA. By Lowell Mason. 

THE NEW CARMINA SACRA. By Lowell Mason. 

THE BOSTON ACADEMY. By Low«ll Mason. 

THE SINGING SCHOOL COMPANION. By J & H. Bird. 

THE AMERICAN VOCALIST. By Rev. D. H. Mansfield. A Selection 
of Tunes, Anthems, Sentences and Hymns, old and new, designed for the 
Church, Vestry, or the Parlor. Adapted to every variety of metre in com- 
mon use, and appropriate to every occasion where God is worshipped and 
men are blessed. Prom the compositions of Billings, Holden, Maxim, Ed- 
son, Holyoke, Read, Kimball, Morgan, Wood, Swan, &c., and eminent 
American authors now living, as well as from distinguished European com- 
posers. Embracing a greater variety of Music for Congregations, Societies, 
Singing Schools and Choirs, than any other collection extant. 

THE FLORIST. By Osgood CoUester. A beautiful book for Acade- 
mies, Seminaries, etc. 

Traders, Teachers and others, supplied with ANY MUSIC BOOK pub- 
lished in the United States, in any quantity. 

BROWN, TAGGARD & CHASE, 

SaOC«i80rfi to Wm. J- Reynolds & Co., and Sanborn, Carter, BftEin 
& Co. At old stand of B. B. Mussey. 

»5 Si, ii9 CorubUl, Boston. 



THE BEST FAmLY PAPER IN NEW ENGLAND. 

THE AMEEIOAN TRAVELLER. 

The unprecedented success of the Teaveller during the past year — 
itaving more than trebled its circulation— has induced the proprietors to 
continue the following 

CLUB Ft AXES. 

1 Copy S3 OO .->- 

a Copies 3 00 

5 Copies . G i.0 

lO Copies ........ 1© 00 

Any postmaster, clerk, or other person who may send us ten or more 
subscribers at ^1 each, and who will receive the package for distribution, 
among he subscribers, .-hall receive an extra copy of the Traveller iree. 

Payment to bs made in advance, and the papers will be sent to one ad- 
dress, and discontinued at the expir*itiou of the time for which payment 
is received. Specimen copies seut free of charge. 

The American Traveller, 

A FIRST GLASSsBOSTON PAPER, ESTABLISHED IN 1825- 
Which has now been in existence for moie than a quarter of a century 
is an Invaluable paier for every merchant, mtchanic, farmer and literary 
man in the United States. 

Its columns contain the fullest and best reports of prices current, mar- 
kets of -^very kind of merchandise, marine news notices of all gieat im- 
provements' in the mechanic arts, of agricultural statistics, implements, 
&c., and also what gives it pre-emincLce as a 

FAMILY PAPER, 

careful, extended and able reviews of all the new publications, (including 
English and American periodicals,) of the day; full details of the latest 
literary intelligence, original tale-^, sketches and pottry, together with 
choice selections from the latest and be^t books, making the Traveller a 
complete literary re.ord. 

The lacilities of the 1rav£LLer for obtaining news are unsurpassed by 
any paper in .New England The terminus ia Boston of the great tele- 
graphic lines north, south, east and west, is in the Traveller counting 
room. J he proprieto/s promise to spare no effort to sustain the reputa- 
tion the paper has already obtained for having the latest news. 

TheTKAVELLBR contains, also, the fa Jest and most correct commercial, 
marine, and scientific articles published in any weekly paper in Boston. 
Published on Ihursday m..rnings. 

The Boston Traveller, 

Published Tuesdays and Fridays, containing all the news, jeports of 
lectures, commercial matters, and ship news of the Daily Traveller ; is 
one of the most desirable papers in the country, at the low price of 
Tlxree Dollais iPt-r iVuuuus. 

Published at the same office, the 

Price $0 a year and 3 Cents a Copy. 

WORTHINQTON, FLANDERS & OUILID, 

PUBLISHERS. 
Traveller Builtliugs, State street, Boston, 



JOHN SUMNER, 

15 Pleasant street, Newbnryport, 



Has for sale the 
celebrated 





Cooking Stove. — 

Having sold more 

than 500 of them, 

"vve can warrant 

them to be the best 

^^K m the market 

^^ We have also 

^^^ the McGEE 

PARLOR 

for Coal, which has proved to be the gi-eatest heater and most econom- 
ical stove ever brought 
into the market. It is a 
really wondprful stove. 

Also. CHILSON'S cel- 
ebrated 

Cone Furnace J 

which is superior to any 
Furnace in the world ; — 
CHILSOX'S POETA- 
BLE FURNACE; THE 
TRIO STOVE, a pow- 
erful heater, for Stores, 
Halls, ^Q. 

Also, a very large as- 
sortment of other kinds 

° PARLOR 

AND 

COOKING 

STOVES, 

■which will be sold at 
reasonable prices. 

JOHI^ SUMNER, 

15 Pleasant street, Newburyport. 




MOULTON & GLAEK, 

AND 

STA.TIOISrEIlS, 

Wholesale and Retail Dealers in 

Curtains and Curtain Fixtures. 



Blank Books of every description constantly on hand, and made 
to order at the shortest notice. 

BOOK BI1IDIN6 

In all its various branches, executed with neatness. 

Periodicals, L'aily and Weekly Papers, 
SCHOOL BOOKS. 

We give particular attention to this department of our business, 
and we can assure those in search of any kind of School Books, 
that we can famish them as low as at any other place in Essex 
County. 

No. 6 Pleasant st. & 29 Market sq. 

NEWBUHYPORT. 



E. R. PERKINS, 

Artist i-i Cuttin-'s Patent 
AMBROTYPE AND PHOTOaRAPHIO 

107 
2Vo. 33 Stale Street, Newbui-ypoa t. 

The Ambrotyp^: is taken on fine Plaie Glass, and pernmnently secured 
between two plafc-< of jiln^s; is bold, clear and dis in'cl, not reversed, and 
will not change in any climate. 

Caution. The pu'<]ic are cautioned in purcliasins; pictures made on 
glass, as Amb"oty pe-; that do not bear the Patent Stamp. Pictures takea 
on a SINGLE (JLASS. :( 'd ci.verefi with black paixt or varnish, are not 
Ambrotyi e<, bat a wo: thlt-ts imii m i iou. 

P H O T O G R 2\ P H S 

P.aiu aiitl Colored. 

This style <ifpoT tin it is now beconsin;,' j)opular, and is well adapted to 
copying small daguerreotypes or othoi- piclures— and can be made to rival 
Ivory Painting, or the be<t Engravioo~it can be enlarged to the size of 
life. Taken only in this cilv in liiis style, at mv gallery. 

AMBROTYPES, MELAINOTYPES, PHOTOGPtAPHS plain and 
colored, put up in ali the varioui* styles at short notice. All \york war- 
ranted . 

No. 33 State Street, Ne^wburyport, Mass. 



ALBERT RUSSEL'S 

mm FOUMMY, 

BROWN S WHARF, NEWBURYPORT. 

Manufactory of all sizes of 

WINDL\SS PURCHASE^^ open and close. 

SHIPS' CAST IRON MAIN PUMPS, CHAIN STOPPERS 

SHIP CASTINGS, CYLINDER AND BOX STOVES, 

BOILERS, OVENS, ASH AND BOILER 

MOUTHS, FURNACES AND 

FENCE. 

ALSO, MILL jMACHINERY AND OTHER CASTINGS 

MADE TO ORDER. 



1> 



No. 6 FREE ST. BLOCK, ^ 

PORTLAND, ME . 



DEALEIS IN 



Willis, S\Mb, €mkQ\kxm, 

FLANNELS, HOUSEKEEPING GOODS, &c. 

Their facilities for the purchase and sale at retail of 

WIDE VELVETS, RICH SILKS, THIBETS, &c., 
Are such that they can offer the best qualities and choicest stales, 
at all times at a small advance from the actual cost of importation. 
Also, particular attention devoted to the LINEN DEPART- 
MENT, which contains at all times a full stock of every description 
of Linen Goods, of the best and most durable fabrics, viz : -Linen 
Sheetings, Pillow Linens, Fronting Linens, Damasks, Napkins, 
Towels, &c. Also, a full stock of COTTON GOODS at very 
LOW PRICES. All the new and choice styles of Foreign and 
American Goods received as soon as they arrive in Boston or New 
York. 

STEPHEN OSBORNE, 

Importer and Dealer in 

FOR LADIES' USE. 

Gentlemen will find all the rare and elegant styles in French atd 
New York Silk and soft Felt 

OPPOSITE THE MANSION HOUSE, SALEM. 



D. A. CLIFFOKD'S 



/n\ tnT]] /R\ /R1 t^;T^ o rR\Q^3^ 



241 Essex Street, Salem. 






Photographs made on CANVAS OR PAPER, from miniature 
to LIFE SIZE, and colored in Oil, Pastile or Water Colors. Al- 
so, finished in India Ink. 

Dagaerreotypes copied to life size, and colored in either of the 
above styles. 

Executed at this establishment in the most artistic and lifelike 
manner. 



0- 



This establishment is extensively furnished with apparatus of 
the most perfect kind, with a light 

UNSURPASSED. 

It is easy of access, being up only one flight of stairs. 

N. B. — The best German and American Artists are employed to 
color; and all pictures are warranted to give perfect satisfaction. 



NEWBUEYFOET 

CLOTHING WAREHOUSE 



RICHARD WELCH, 

ClSTDM-MllDrEiTBIie DEILII. 

No. 26 Market Square, Newburyport, Mass., 

Keeps constantly on hand an extensive and select stock of GEN- 
TLEMEN'S, YOUTH'S AND CHILDREN'S 

READY-MADE CLOTHING, 

of every desirable fabric and style. The reputation which this 
establishment has gained, by keeping the very best styles manufac- 
tured from the most popular goods, will be kept up, and customers 
may not only be sure to find every article needed in this business, 
but to find articles such as represented. The stock of 

FURNISHING GOODS, TRUNKS, YALISES, 
UMBRELLAS, &c., 

are purchased from the best manufactories in the country, and 
cannot fail to suit, either in quality or price. 
Also, a good stock of 

which will be made up under the proprietor's superintendence, to 
the satisfaction of customers. 

Travellers and others are most respectfully invited to call and 
examine a stock as fresh and desirable as can be found in the 
New England states. 



WOODMAN, TRUE & CO., 

Importers and "Wholesale Dealers in 

FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC 



Also, Manufacturers and Jobbers of 

CLOTHIISJ^a: 

54 & 56 Middle Street, Portland. 

GBO. W. -WOODMAN, VICTOR M. RICHARDSON, SETd B. HEKSEY. 

HANSON & THimi^W, 

SUCCESSOES TO L. D. HANSOX & CO., 

WHOLESALE DEALKI S IN 

UPPER AND SOLE LEATHER, 

Nos. 138 & 140 Middle Street, 

PORTLAND, MAINE. 



EDWARD H. BURGIN, 

IMPORTER, WHOLESALE & RETAIL DEALER IN 

tf nrpctings, Jfkor ©il ClDtljs, 

AND ■ 

OURTAIK MATERIALS OF ALL KINDS: 
Chambers 1 & 2 Free Street Block, 

OVER H. J. LIBBEY & C0.'8. F^Ml-ILJiMSDo 




HUNT, WEBSTER & CO 'S 

SERVING MACHINES 

FOR MANUFACTURING PURPOSES 
AND FOR FAMILY USE. 

But the simplest and most durable machine made. 

Any person can learn to u*e them in an hoar by the directions 
sent- making a Lock stitch stronger than hand work, that cannot be 
nnravtUe'l or pulled oaf— and alike on both sides of the work, form- 
ing no ridge on the under side, They will stitch and gather 
with any sized stitch desired. They run eas/er, causing less fatigue, 
at.d consequently can be run as fast as any other sewing machine. 
They make /es^ noise than any machine made, hence their popularity 
among the families. They "are every way reliable, and can be run 
y;ars without a sim^.e repair. They are constructed tor convenience, 
Demg connected with a 

BEAUTIFUL WORK TABLE. 

and they are easily oiled, and so arranged that the?yor^ cannot touch 
the oiled parts. ANY SPOOL of COTTON, large or small, can 
be used, as bought at the store, and they will 

SEW ONE HUNDRED YARDS 

WITHOUT THREADING A NEEDLE OR BREAKING 
THK THREAD. 

We have but one price, a? stated in the Circulars, which can be 
obtained, 

WITH SAMPLES OF THE SEWING, of 

JAMES TREFREN, 

.AIANUFACTURER'S AGENT, 

No. 385 Washington street, Boston; 

OVER CHASE & BROTHERS,' AND 

No, 15 St. peters STREET, SALEM, 

(UP STAIRS.; 



(MOn NEW COM liMCH 

PATENTED IN 

America, England and France. 

The thorough and highly satisfaciory trials of a large number of 

CONE FURNACES, 

in use during the last 
cold winter, has proved 
it an invaluable inven- 
g^^tion, which far surpasses 
^all I latis before known, 
for the purposes of heat. 
The manner of holding, 
or keeping back the 
gmoki! and gases in a 
cluste of COUPS, (or ta- 
pering radiators) near the 
fire, into which the for- 
merly wasted products 
of combustion are re- 
turned a> d completely 
consumed. The conse- 
quent unparalleled econ- 
omy of fuel and great 
heating power combin- 
ed with simplicity and 
ease ofmanagtmei)t and 
its solidity, strength aid 
durability, is woik- 
ing a complete i evolution 
in the science of house- 
warming despite the im- 
mense effort-i made by 
persons whose pecuu i ry 
intere>ts £re being aifect- 
ed by its general use. — 
We are satisfied that all who can see, or obtain correct information r«. 
specting the cone furnance, will not be likely to use any other apparatus. 
This Furnace has received the highest comtrendatio. s from all, and 
especially from persons of the greatest scientific knowiedge in sr-ch mat- 
ters: it received the first premiam. and the onlt gold medal eveb 
AWARDED A FUKNACE in this State at the last Fair of the Massachusetts 
Charitable Mechanics' Association held in Boston. We have, as usual, a 
full EB.'^ortment of Chilson's well known Trio Portable Fu'nacis, and 
Trio Stoves Cooking Ranges, Mantels, Grates, Registers, Ventilators, 
&c., and continue to give personal attention to erecting Fu naces Rang- 
es, and the ventilation of buildings in every part of the country. 




OHILSON, GOULD & CO., 

99 & 101 Blackstone Street, Boston. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

000E53H4005 



